corrosion

[MattW]

Glad you got it sorted out through the warranty

When I had my 1100, I used to do my best with cleaning and ACF50 to protect it and reduce corrosion.

It's pretty severely anal, but when I ran it through the winter, I took to dissolving ACF50 'Corrosion Block' grease in naphtha (panel wipe) and painting it on vulnerable bits like the fork legs etc. The solvent forms a carrier and makes it loose enough to 'flow' and seep into joints etc but it evaporates leaving the grease behind. When I part exed it before Christmas, it looked pretty damn good for a 20 year old bike and certain bits that had a name for corroding (fork leg brace, fork legs etc) were immaculate.

I've just done similar with my 'new to me' 4000 mile TC to back up the ACF50 that I've already all lathered over it. I've blobbed a little dissolved grease onto all the spoke nipples, disc to hub joints, crash bar joints, vulnerable fasteners etc (although I've not painted it on to whole components like I did with the 1100 )

The grease itself isn't cheap but it's great to have anyway and I use either it or duralac ever time I remove a fastener (I stripped the tank panels and beak off last weekend to fit an oil cooler guard - everything got greased / ACF50'd while I was in there). It's an excellent thick EP, high temp corrosion resistant product and it's 'clean' if that makes sense with a grease.

 

[facom]

thanks for the info, looks like i'll have a busy weekend

 

[Bendy toy]

MattW grease idea is a great tip.

Mine had corroded all over the top of the engine probably due to some idiot spilling brake fluid. Cleaning the bike made 100% of F all difference because the affected area was totally hidden until the petrol tank was removed. The same problem applies elsewhere - under the front swing arm is a good one. Its so over engineered that its not possible to get behind to clean it properly.

I do wonder why the front swing arm needs needle rollers AND taper rollers at both ends (special BMW sizes of course) and is considerably heavier than the rear swing arm.

 

[Bounce]

Good news ....... Took my bike into coopers Tunbridge wells this morning and after passing a health check they have agreed that the parts will be replaced under warranty !
You may have noticed I say parts, not only is the front wheel being replaced but also the front engine cover and that is happening next week . so I left there a happy chappy to go to work in the rain which was not event free because in my rush to get to work I ploughed into a flooded section on the A21 pembury bypass !! At about 70 mph !! Had my feet washed of the pegs and a Hugh wall of water blocking my view. Still gave the rozzer something to talk about over lunch

That's a result, well done.

My experience of that particular dealer has been far from satisfactory; when the work has been done, double check as much as you can before departing....they completed some recall work on mine in 2013 & 14, and on both occasions I had to point out to them they hadn't completed the task!!!!

 

[Bounce]

Glad you got it sorted out through the warranty

When I had my 1100, I used to do my best with cleaning and ACF50 to protect it and reduce corrosion.

It's pretty severely anal, but when I ran it through the winter, I took to dissolving ACF50 'Corrosion Block' grease in naphtha (panel wipe) and painting it on vulnerable bits like the fork legs etc. The solvent forms a carrier and makes it loose enough to 'flow' and seep into joints etc but it evaporates leaving the grease behind. When I part exed it before Christmas, it looked pretty damn good for a 20 year old bike and certain bits that had a name for corroding (fork leg brace, fork legs etc) were immaculate.

I've just done similar with my 'new to me' 4000 mile TC to back up the ACF50 that I've already all lathered over it. I've blobbed a little dissolved grease onto all the spoke nipples, disc to hub joints, crash bar joints, vulnerable fasteners etc (although I've not painted it on to whole components like I did with the 1100 )

The grease itself isn't cheap but it's great to have anyway and I use either it or duralac ever time I remove a fastener (I stripped the tank panels and beak off last weekend to fit an oil cooler guard - everything got greased / ACF50'd while I was in there). It's an excellent thick EP, high temp corrosion resistant product and it's 'clean' if that makes sense with a grease.

+1 for the ACF corrosion block grease; I use it all over the GS, and on the KTM too......marvellous stuff....

 

[Bendy toy]

Duralac or similar marine grade anti seize is best for fasteners. Grease can be too slippery allowing bolts to come loose. Fancy greases with silicone can be even worse.
I've never had problems but I usually use an anti seize grease/paste on fasteners. The best I had was Rocol but it's (very) not cheap.