TheJoker
Registered user
Of course we are interested... 
Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars to a R1200GS – notes
Well, I can't post the photos (yet), but here is the text...
You will need…
10mm socket
Selection of Allen socket drivers to fit Torque wrench
Torque Wrench capable of 12-48 NM
Medium file (or coarse sandpaper)
55 Torx key
30 Torx key
You may need…
10mm spanner
Large Rubber Mallet
Block of 2x2 inch wood approx 18inches long.
Trolley jack
RHS = right hand-side of the bike when viewed from the front i.e. the bike’s near-side
LHS = left hand side of the bike when viewed from the front i.e. the bike’s off-side
1. Study the supplied instructions – mine were in German – the important thing is to unpack all the bolts, spacers, washers etc and measure each one (especially the spacers) – find each on the diagram and place ready for use later.
2. Dry fit the bars off the bike first. You will probably need to file/chamfer the ends of the middle section to remove the paint, and use a dab of grease to enable a smooth connection. Once together dry, also insert and screw in half way the bolts that join the middle section with the end sections – this removes the paint from the threads inside the middle section and makes it easier to do up later. NOTE that the middle section has two welded brackets on it – the longer one goes to the RHS.
3. Bike on centrestand with room to work both sides.
4. Just under the RHS of the fuel tank there is a small Torx 30 bolt attaching an oil feed pipe to the engine – remove this bolt.
5. Loose fit middle section – the LHS is bolted to a captive nut that is part of a (black) bracket already on the bike just under the LHS fuel tank using the shorter M6 allen bolt. The RHS is bolted where the Torx 30 bolt was removed from above with the longer M6 allen bolt together with smallest spacer. Do the allen bolts up finger tight.
6. NOTE – do not remove both Torx 55 frame/engine mounting bolts at the same time – not sure what would happen but I suspect it would not be good.
7. Remove RHS Torx 55 engine mounting bolt. Insert appropriate spacer (just stands approx 1-2 mm proud) – offer up RHS section of bars – with a (limited amount) of twisting, use of rubber mallet, force the RHS section of bars onto the middle section – may need more grease – ensure the holes of the RHS bars are near where they will be bolted i.e. you don’t want to damage anything while concentrating on the mallet action.
8. Loose fit (finger tight) the connecting 10mm bolt (NOTE that I didn’t do this until last and had to mess about with a trolley jack, block of wood and a larger rubber mallet to get the holes to line up).
9. Loose fit (finger tight) the large replacement M12 allen bolt.
10. Fit the other spacer and M10 allen bolt to the RHS in the (empty) threaded hole. Finding the correct angle of attack for sliding the spacer between the bars and engine can be tricky, still, the sump bash plate usually catches it and provides a small entertainment poking it out with a stick.
11. Eat bacon sandwich provided by your wife.
12. Repeat the procedure for the LHS section of bar – where this joins to the middle section there is a slotted hole. Again, may need trolley jack etc to line up holes for the 10mm connecting bolt.
13. Tighten to torque the 10mm connecting bolts.
14. Tighten to torque(s) the lower M12 and M10 allen bolts both sides.
15. Tighten to torque the upper M6 allen bolts both sides.
16. Admire handiwork, realise that coffee provided by wife along with bacon sandwich has gone cold. Drink it anyway.
17. Re-check torques after a bit of mileage.
Well, I can't post the photos (yet), but here is the text...
You will need…
10mm socket
Selection of Allen socket drivers to fit Torque wrench
Torque Wrench capable of 12-48 NM
Medium file (or coarse sandpaper)
55 Torx key
30 Torx key
You may need…
10mm spanner
Large Rubber Mallet
Block of 2x2 inch wood approx 18inches long.
Trolley jack
RHS = right hand-side of the bike when viewed from the front i.e. the bike’s near-side
LHS = left hand side of the bike when viewed from the front i.e. the bike’s off-side
1. Study the supplied instructions – mine were in German – the important thing is to unpack all the bolts, spacers, washers etc and measure each one (especially the spacers) – find each on the diagram and place ready for use later.
2. Dry fit the bars off the bike first. You will probably need to file/chamfer the ends of the middle section to remove the paint, and use a dab of grease to enable a smooth connection. Once together dry, also insert and screw in half way the bolts that join the middle section with the end sections – this removes the paint from the threads inside the middle section and makes it easier to do up later. NOTE that the middle section has two welded brackets on it – the longer one goes to the RHS.
3. Bike on centrestand with room to work both sides.
4. Just under the RHS of the fuel tank there is a small Torx 30 bolt attaching an oil feed pipe to the engine – remove this bolt.
5. Loose fit middle section – the LHS is bolted to a captive nut that is part of a (black) bracket already on the bike just under the LHS fuel tank using the shorter M6 allen bolt. The RHS is bolted where the Torx 30 bolt was removed from above with the longer M6 allen bolt together with smallest spacer. Do the allen bolts up finger tight.
6. NOTE – do not remove both Torx 55 frame/engine mounting bolts at the same time – not sure what would happen but I suspect it would not be good.
7. Remove RHS Torx 55 engine mounting bolt. Insert appropriate spacer (just stands approx 1-2 mm proud) – offer up RHS section of bars – with a (limited amount) of twisting, use of rubber mallet, force the RHS section of bars onto the middle section – may need more grease – ensure the holes of the RHS bars are near where they will be bolted i.e. you don’t want to damage anything while concentrating on the mallet action.
8. Loose fit (finger tight) the connecting 10mm bolt (NOTE that I didn’t do this until last and had to mess about with a trolley jack, block of wood and a larger rubber mallet to get the holes to line up).
9. Loose fit (finger tight) the large replacement M12 allen bolt.
10. Fit the other spacer and M10 allen bolt to the RHS in the (empty) threaded hole. Finding the correct angle of attack for sliding the spacer between the bars and engine can be tricky, still, the sump bash plate usually catches it and provides a small entertainment poking it out with a stick.
11. Eat bacon sandwich provided by your wife.
12. Repeat the procedure for the LHS section of bar – where this joins to the middle section there is a slotted hole. Again, may need trolley jack etc to line up holes for the 10mm connecting bolt.
13. Tighten to torque the 10mm connecting bolts.
14. Tighten to torque(s) the lower M12 and M10 allen bolts both sides.
15. Tighten to torque the upper M6 allen bolts both sides.
16. Admire handiwork, realise that coffee provided by wife along with bacon sandwich has gone cold. Drink it anyway.
17. Re-check torques after a bit of mileage.
jonboy
Guest
TST said:
Thanks for the advice but with a little effort those headers (stainless?) can come up very nice indeed.
.
TheJoker
Registered user
Re: Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars to a R1200GS – notes
Seems like my plan is coming together *a-team-tunes*... so, time to order the H&B bars, I guess...
.. but before I do that, I wonder about the tools needed.
1) Is the torque wrench really needed?
2) What is a 55 or 30 Torx key? Is it a socket or like an allen key (male/female that is)
3) are items in 2) included in the toolkit
4) Where can I buy Torx sets? Both male/female to suit the GS?
I need to buy tools, COOOL!
Cheers!
Clive said:
Seems like my plan is coming together *a-team-tunes*... so, time to order the H&B bars, I guess...
.. but before I do that, I wonder about the tools needed.
1) Is the torque wrench really needed?
2) What is a 55 or 30 Torx key? Is it a socket or like an allen key (male/female that is)
3) are items in 2) included in the toolkit
4) Where can I buy Torx sets? Both male/female to suit the GS?
I need to buy tools, COOOL!
Cheers!
bonjeroo
Guest
Re: Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars to a R1200GS – notes
Thanks very much. I have been putting off fitting my bars, but with such excellent instructions I should get it done this weekend.
Bonj
Clive said:
Thanks very much. I have been putting off fitting my bars, but with such excellent instructions I should get it done this weekend.
Bonj
Lunsarboy
Guest
Hi Guys
Well I had H&B Bars fitted a week ago and today while out on some dirt took a spill. I am however happy to report that the only damage is a small scratch on the hand guard (a couple of mm's) and scratching on the the side part of the bars. Other than that nothing else. I had been thinking if they where worth the money but now very glad I spent it and would happily recommend them.
Get the H & B's
Lunsarboy
Well I had H&B Bars fitted a week ago and today while out on some dirt took a spill. I am however happy to report that the only damage is a small scratch on the hand guard (a couple of mm's) and scratching on the the side part of the bars. Other than that nothing else. I had been thinking if they where worth the money but now very glad I spent it and would happily recommend them.
Get the H & B's
Lunsarboy
Re: Re: Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars to a R1200GS – notes
1. The large T55 Torx bolt(s) that are replaced by Hex bolts are the lower rear frame to engine mounting bolts, so I would suggest that the correct torque for these is important
2. T55, T30 refer to the size of the Torx "keys" - they are a bit like an Allen key - e.g. from a quick google search see http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/BRI2UTX55.html (for the bit version)
3. A T30 torx key is supplied in the toolkit, however a T55 one isn't - I have a T55 one in a key set I have had for several years - if you can't source one then you are welcome to borrow mine.
4. I haven't managed to locate a set yet, I keep meaning to fully check which sizes are fitted to the 1200 and get a set (or individual ones) that fit my 3/8in drive torque wrench
TheJoker said:
1. The large T55 Torx bolt(s) that are replaced by Hex bolts are the lower rear frame to engine mounting bolts, so I would suggest that the correct torque for these is important
2. T55, T30 refer to the size of the Torx "keys" - they are a bit like an Allen key - e.g. from a quick google search see http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/BRI2UTX55.html (for the bit version)
3. A T30 torx key is supplied in the toolkit, however a T55 one isn't - I have a T55 one in a key set I have had for several years - if you can't source one then you are welcome to borrow mine.
4. I haven't managed to locate a set yet, I keep meaning to fully check which sizes are fitted to the 1200 and get a set (or individual ones) that fit my 3/8in drive torque wrench
TheJoker
Registered user
Re: Re: Re: Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars to a R1200GS – notes
Thanks Clive!
1) That makes sense... Don't want to lose that "bit" of the bike!
2) Oki, cool. Had a look. Thanks!
3) Thanks for the offer, but I'll do my utmost to buy tools!
4) I'll let you know if I find a set!
Thanks again!
Waiting for the bars and the bike...
Clive said:1. The large T55 Torx bolt(s) that are replaced by Hex bolts are the lower rear frame to engine mounting bolts, so I would suggest that the correct torque for these is important
2. T55, T30 refer to the size of the Torx "keys" - they are a bit like an Allen key - e.g. from a quick google search see http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/BRI2UTX55.html (for the bit version)
3. A T30 torx key is supplied in the toolkit, however a T55 one isn't - I have a T55 one in a key set I have had for several years - if you can't source one then you are welcome to borrow mine.
4. I haven't managed to locate a set yet, I keep meaning to fully check which sizes are fitted to the 1200 and get a set (or individual ones) that fit my 3/8in drive torque wrench
Thanks Clive!
1) That makes sense... Don't want to lose that "bit" of the bike!
2) Oki, cool. Had a look. Thanks!
3) Thanks for the offer, but I'll do my utmost to buy tools!
4) I'll let you know if I find a set!
Thanks again!
Waiting for the bars and the bike...
TheJoker
Registered user
Bars are fitted
Thanks to Clive's excellent instructions I didn't stumble upon too many problems.
What I noticed were:
The M6 bolts (?) that secure the middle parts to the side parts; Clive says dry-fit them first; yes, really do that. I ended up fubar-ing almost all the thread of one, even when dry fitting it. So, make sure the bolt grips properly.
Make sure that you can get the side-bars onto the middle section very easily. I ended up dremelling both the inside of the RHS bars, and the end of the center-bar on the RHS. And also elongating the hole, just a little bit (still on RHS).
I also had some problems getting the bolt on the center bar on the RHS to grip. Again, dremelling the bolt to a bit more arrow-shape helped.
LHS went on without any problems..
And, regarding tools;
Halfords do a whole bunch of sockets for allen keys and torx T-series (allen-type) but for some reason my shop didn't have the E-series (socket-type), and said "no, don't do those"
I got a torque wrench from Argos for £14.99 - don't know how exact it is, but it's sure more exact than my imagination. All in all; My tool collection grew, and my bike now has got sturdy bars fitted.
Thanks again Clive!
Thanks to Clive's excellent instructions I didn't stumble upon too many problems.
What I noticed were:
The M6 bolts (?) that secure the middle parts to the side parts; Clive says dry-fit them first; yes, really do that. I ended up fubar-ing almost all the thread of one, even when dry fitting it. So, make sure the bolt grips properly.
Make sure that you can get the side-bars onto the middle section very easily. I ended up dremelling both the inside of the RHS bars, and the end of the center-bar on the RHS. And also elongating the hole, just a little bit (still on RHS).
I also had some problems getting the bolt on the center bar on the RHS to grip. Again, dremelling the bolt to a bit more arrow-shape helped.
LHS went on without any problems..
And, regarding tools;
Halfords do a whole bunch of sockets for allen keys and torx T-series (allen-type) but for some reason my shop didn't have the E-series (socket-type), and said "no, don't do those"
I got a torque wrench from Argos for £14.99 - don't know how exact it is, but it's sure more exact than my imagination. All in all; My tool collection grew, and my bike now has got sturdy bars fitted.
Thanks again Clive!
ujeni
Guest
Has anyone used the wunderlich crash bars? I just ordered my set and I am wondering if I made a mistake. They look almost identical to the H&B bars.
aristos
Guest
engine guards
You may visit at the web the site wunderlich.com where they do produce a lot of accessories especially for the GS. They good think with the ones I bought is that they do cover the whole cylinders at the two sights where the one offered by the BMW dealer don't.
You may visit at the web the site wunderlich.com where they do produce a lot of accessories especially for the GS. They good think with the ones I bought is that they do cover the whole cylinders at the two sights where the one offered by the BMW dealer don't.
TerryM
Guest
The NL bars look EXACTLY like the OEM BMW part, to the point that I could believe that they ARE the BMW OEM part. Is someone having some fun at our expense?
As for the US parts, they seem, at least, to be flimsy at the attachment points.
As for the US parts, they seem, at least, to be flimsy at the attachment points.
HMarc
Guest
Without a horizontal brace/support attached to the outermost edge, I suggest that they are more TIP-OVER GUARDS than they are CRASHBARS. Imagine that bike flopping over on it's side at 50kph or more. The ends of those bars are going to bend until they contact the cylinder heads, and then the crash energy is going to be transmitted right where you don't want it.
But they're still Very Nice top-over guards...
But they're still Very Nice top-over guards...
ANDRE
Guest
TerryM said:
These crashbars are mine and that is my bike. At the time BMW could not supply them so I had them made by a small company overhere in Holland. Now you can buy crashbars all over the place.
They make the crashbars too the design you wish for. I have tested them and they work fine.
If I would buy crashbars now I would probably buy the ones from Touratech. They look really good
Regards
Andre
Clive795
Registered user
I have now fitted a set of H & B bars courtesy of Clives (no relation) excellent instructions. Everything went very smoothly and they look the biz !
It may be of interest that H & B appear to have modified the design, the centre section is now attached to the sides by way of two fairly hefty 'grub' screws that go through a captive bolt and a hole and press against the bit of the side bar that has been inserted. Its probably not as solid as the previous set up but I think it is a lot easier to assemble.
Clive
It may be of interest that H & B appear to have modified the design, the centre section is now attached to the sides by way of two fairly hefty 'grub' screws that go through a captive bolt and a hole and press against the bit of the side bar that has been inserted. Its probably not as solid as the previous set up but I think it is a lot easier to assemble.
Clive
Colin O
Guest
Re: Fitting Hepco & Becker Crashbars to a R1200GS – notes
Thank for the 'how to do it' Clive. My bars came today and the instructions were in German!
They assembled OK off the bike but I had to resort to the mallet once tyhey were fitted. I didn't need the trolley jack or the piece of wood though.
... Oh yes, I didn't get any coffee or bacon sandwiches with mine either
Clive said:
Thank for the 'how to do it' Clive. My bars came today and the instructions were in German!
They assembled OK off the bike but I had to resort to the mallet once tyhey were fitted. I didn't need the trolley jack or the piece of wood though.
... Oh yes, I didn't get any coffee or bacon sandwiches with mine either
Vampire
Guest
Wunderlich and H&B crash bars are one and the same thing.ujeni said:
I ordered mine through Wunderlich and they actually have the H&B sticker on the bars, so don't worry about having made a mistake.
It took me about 30 minutes to fit them, very simple, even without instructions, though it would have been handy to have had the well worded instruction set that is now posted on this site.
kennybleep
Guest
???
Clive: Top instructions mate Following much consideration, decided to order a set of bars, but haven't received them yet. I think from looking at the pictures of the finished article and reading your instructions I get the picture. I've already got the tools, but what are the torque values for the various bolts??
Following much consideration, decided to order a set of bars, but haven't received them yet. I think from looking at the pictures of the finished article and reading your instructions I get the picture. I've already got the tools, but what are the torque values for the various bolts??
Cestria
Registered user
GSMonkey - The torque settings came with the H&B fitting instructions.
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