MattW is back from a weekend away and noticed this
Not a bad job (especially the second time in two weeks
) - I used a Clymer manual and did it more or less 'by the book'. Might be too late, but a couple of points worth noting:
Removing the old pivots - you'll need plenty of heat - don't be tempted to crank on them - you can destroy the threads in the swingarm. When they are hot enough the loctite will soften and they'll undo - you may need to apply more heat half way through undoing them.
I
did use a low range torque wrench to set the preload on the adjustable pivot (7Nm from memory - bought the wrench just for this job). Others will say do it by feel, but I went for the security blanket of a wrench. When you are tightening the adjustable pivot, work the FD housing up and down as you tighten to bed the bearing properly. It's worth
slightly over torquing it, backing off and then setting the final torque.
I would recommend that you
don't use the specified green loctite (270?) when you refit the pivots - it sets like concrete and you'll regret it if you ever have to do them again. I used normal blue loctite (243) and did the adjustable pivot in two stages to avoid the need for the special tool (locitited the adjuster, set the torque, waited overnight for the threadlock to set and then fitted and torqued the locknut using pencil witness marks to make sure nothing moved). Some people never use loctite for this job but I was uncertain about the adjustable pivot moving when I tightened the locknut so I did - wus
