dashboard din socket to power spotlights?

robinpinkney

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to save faffing around with bmw canbus connectors etc
could i use the bmw din socket on the front rightside to power some after market spotlights and would they be powered on and off with the ignition?
( i've got a 2015 1200gs and my wife has a 2017 1200gs)
cheers:)
 
to save faffing around with bmw canbus connectors etc
could i use the bmw din socket on the front rightside to power some after market spotlights and would they be powered on and off with the ignition?
( i've got a 2015 1200gs and my wife has a 2017 1200gs)
cheers:)

If the socket switches on and off with ignition and dependent on current draw of the lights i suppose it would work. But someone will be along soon to tell me im an idiot and no it wont work :blagblah:augie:green gri:D
 
to save faffing around with bmw canbus connectors etc
could i use the bmw din socket on the front rightside to power some after market spotlights and would they be powered on and off with the ignition?
( i've got a 2015 1200gs and my wife has a 2017 1200gs)
cheers:)

It's limited to around 5 AMPS so you would need to be mindful. Suppose it's possible but something like a HEX EZCan would be a better solution
 
The Hexezcan seems like a very expensive way if all you want is to switch a pair of extra lights. I'd be looking at an Autoswitch instead, controlled from the high beam switch / headlamp flasher.
Not done this on my LC yet, but that's the plan and this worked well on my previous canbus BMWs & I can't see any reason why it would not work on the LC.
 
The Hexezcan seems like a very expensive way if all you want is to switch a pair of extra lights. I'd be looking at an Autoswitch instead, controlled from the high beam switch / headlamp flasher.
Not done this on my LC yet, but that's the plan and this worked well on my previous canbus BMWs & I can't see any reason why it would not work on the LC.

You could go even cheaper and just use an automotive relay. Just need to find a trigger
 
The Autoswitch is a neat solution, I've used them a few times over the years, they work well. You have a red/green LED to indicate on/off.:aidan
 
If the socket switches on and off with ignition and dependent on current draw of the lights i suppose it would work. But someone will be along soon to tell me im an idiot and no it wont work :blagblah:augie:green gri:D
Ok, you're an idiot.

Happy now ?

If they're 30w or less led, then it's doable as that equates to 5amp which is the canbus limit.

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
Mine are powered from the wiring to the aux socket. There is a 3-way bmw wiring connector available that plugs inline between the socket and its loom connection, leaving a spur which can be used to power the lights. Might be worth asking your dealer if he can source one for you. Sorry, i dont know the part number-- it was surplus from one of the rt-P's I converted.
Mine are used as drl's so i just wired a switch into the additional wiring. On--off when i choose but with the added protection of the canbus tripping them out if they develop a fault and also ignition controlled, switching off after a few minutes. Seem to remember mine was 2 amps max before tripping the canbus....plenty enough for two led drl's.

You could always splice into the wires to the rear of the socket if the wire adaptor thingy is unobtainable.
 
Bodge - get it done properly if you don’t have the skills.
 
Those DIN sockets really are the pits. Items plugged in become loose over time, plugs fail, get knocked out etc. Rat's nests of wiring can result and rain can start corrosion in the socket etc.etc. Best treat them as a temporary fix for an immediate need rather than a long term solution.
 
thanks for all the replies, so it will work and switch off with the ignition?

Mine switch off 2-3 minutes after switching off the ignition... The socket remains live for a short time as standard anyway-- opinions vary up to 5 mnutes..
If you can get hold of one of the wires i referred to it will avoid any bodges to the wiring--- i can return the bike to standard by unplugging the extra wire from the loom and rear of the din socket, then reconnect the original wire to the din. No splicing, no damage , no bodges.
 


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