Dirty oil on bottom of reaction link

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

I know this will open a response of a thousand woes, but here I go!

I have found that i am getting a build up of oil underneath the reaction link, toward the final drive housing.
Any thoughts?
I did think that perhaps it is a build up of oil residue from the breather pipe, but if that is the case is it normal and or could if indicate a clogged up breather filter somewhere creating a bit of pressure?

Its thick dirty dusty sticky - not fresh oil running etc

31k miles, full service history, running lovely.

 

[Steptoe]

Check final drive level and gearbox oil levels.

If one of them is down snip cable tie and pull the gaiter back and see if the shaft is full of oil.

If the levels are ok wipe it clean and don't worry about it.

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

cheers steptoe
will take a peek - presumably if any oil present behind the gaiter there is a leak...

is it easy to see the level once the top bolt is out on each?
Never done those oils before

 

[MattW]

cheers steptoe
will take a peek - presumably if any oil present behind the gaiter there is a leak...

is it easy to see the level once the top bolt is out on each?
Never done those oils before

Yep, easy - you might need to peer in with a torch. The FD is simple, the gearbox can be trickier, I gently rock the bike on its centre stand to make the oil move around a bit when doing the gearbox. Of course, it'll depend where they were filled to on the last service...

I'm a bit paranoid about oil in the swingarm (failed gearbox output seal in the past which I changed - twice - don't ask) so I pull the boot back fairly regularly - seems to accumulate a teaspoon full or so every thousand miles which Steppers tells me is perfectly normal

 

[Steptoe]

cheers steptoe
will take a peek - presumably if any oil present behind the gaiter there is a leak...

is it easy to see the level once the top bolt is out on each?
Never done those oils before

Small amount of oil (egg cup full) is fairly normal.

Both gearbox and final drive oil levels are to the top of the filler plugs.

 

[Michael R1150GS Adventure]

Yep, easy - you might need to peer in with a torch. The FD is simple, the gearbox can be trickier, I gently rock the bike on its centre stand to make the oil move around a bit when doing the gearbox. Of course, it'll depend where they were filled to on the last service...

Well it was serviced by BMW main dealer so the levels coudl have been anywhere... (based on my past experience!)

 

[robc]

I had my input oil seal replaced at the weekend for the same reason. Oil was weeping out of the gaiter. There was about an egg cup full in there but that was too much for me. It has never leaked before so I just had it replaced. I would have done it myself but I don't have the castellated socket. If I knew the correct size I'll pop out and get one.

Anyway, lots of people say a small leak is ok and they just keep on topping up the oil. Personally, I don't like any kind of oil leak so I choose to fix it straight away.

Removing the bevel drive is easy peasy. I replaced the pivot baring last year so I'd removed the loctite that BMW use for something less powerful.
Refitting it was a right barstool. Getting the UJ splines into the driveshaft took a while and a good thump with a mallet which knocked some of the needles out of the pivot baring. They were a barstool to get back without removing the bevel drive again.

Anyway, I hammered it all back together again and used it for work yesterday. Seems ok.

Regards

Rob C

 

[davegs]

hammers

I had my input oil seal replaced at the weekend for the same reason. Oil was weeping out of the gaiter. There was about an egg cup full in there but that was too much for me. It has never leaked before so I just had it replaced. I would have done it myself but I don't have the castellated socket. If I knew the correct size I'll pop out and get one.

Anyway, lots of people say a small leak is ok and they just keep on topping up the oil. Personally, I don't like any kind of oil leak so I choose to fix it straight away.

Removing the bevel drive is easy peasy. I replaced the pivot baring last year so I'd removed the loctite that BMW use for something less powerful.
Refitting it was a right barstool. Getting the UJ splines into the driveshaft took a while and a good thump with a mallet which knocked some of the needles out of the pivot baring. They were a barstool to get back without removing the bevel drive again.

Anyway, I hammered it all back together again and used it for work yesterday. Seems ok.

So endeth the lesson, hammers don't solve anything.

 

[Bronco Billy]

I had my input oil seal replaced at the weekend for the same reason. Oil was weeping out of the gaiter. There was about an egg cup full in there but that was too much for me. It has never leaked before so I just had it replaced. I would have done it myself but I don't have the castellated socket. If I knew the correct size I'll pop out and get one.

I`ve got one made up with an halfinch socket welded in it. If you have a good strong impact gun you or anyone can borrow it for free. Just leave a deposit refunded on return .........