disabling side -stand disabler ??

Scott1

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Dear Tossers..

Yes, I agree that probably wasn't the most eloquent title.

As you may have guessed, on my '97 GS1100, I would like to disable the 'side stand out/engine cut off..mostly becaue it's a bit of a pain in the rear, when it would be nice to leave on the sidestand , with engine running, while you eat the Pie.

I have seen the mod before on the web somewhere, but cannot find it now I'm looking for it, Typical.

Can any tosser please point me in the right direction ??.
Many thanks, :flag
 
Are you saying that an R1100 GS exhibits the Ducatiesque trait of not idling in neutral with the sidestand down...?

In which case, disabling it is a fine idea until the day that you ride off with it down, try to turn left and it flips you off the bike into the path of an oncoming bus....:(
 
I could have done with the bypass on my 1150GS a few weeks ago.

Scenario:

Underground car park.
Hit the starter button. rrrrrrr....rrrrrr..rr.r.r.....
Damn.
Push the GS to the top of the car park ramp.
Roll down, dump clutch, lock rear wheel.
Push the GS to the top of the car park ramp.
Roll down, dump clutch, lock rear wheel.
Push the GS to the top of the car park ramp.
Roll down, dump clutch, Vrrroooooom!
Leave engine idling whilst putting on jacket, helmet and gloves.
Get on bike, select 1st gear, clunk! Sidestand still down.
Swear.
Get off bike, remove gloves, helmet and jacket.
Push the GS to the top of the car park ramp.
Roll down, dump clutch, lock rear wheel.
Swear louder.
Catch breath.
Wait 5 minutes.
Push the GS to the top of the car park ramp.
Roll down, dump clutch, Vrrroooooom!
Put on jacket, helmet and gloves again.
Make sure sidestand is UP yer fecking numpty!
Select 1st gear.
Ride until there are only fumes left in the petrol tank before daring to switch off engine. Making sure petrol station has a slope of some kind nearby.

Bypassing the sidestand switch would have make my life a bit easier that day but would have held a nasty surprise for me when turning left out of the car park.

160 miles later at home I was still sweating from the effort. Unfit? Me? No, I've a strong drinking arm :beer: :jager :beerjug:

Regards

Rob C
 
Do not make this mod for long term!

It's there for a reason. I did the same, and once forgot about it, until the first left hand turn :( It threw me up a little and I almost shit my pants.

Do it if you are in the middle of nowhere and you need to ride, but do not make this for a long term! Sooner or later it's going to happen to you too.

Dan.
 
Had mine disconnected years ago. purely as a preventative measure. reliability is all I care about. Kicking up the sidestand is as automatic for me as breathing... I simply don't think about it.. it just happens.

For almost 10 years I rode bikes that didn't have this 'safety measure'... and I don't recall it being a problem then either.

On a similar note.. for years I used a disc lock as a matter of course. Since I moved to this house (10 yrs ago) I stopped using one.. but even now I find myself checking the front wheel to make sure it isn't there.. again, without thinking.
 
I used to kick up the sidestand automatically too. For some reason this has not been the case for most of 2010 - especially on the RT.

No idea why.

Maybe I will be cured for 2011.

Regards

Rob C
 
Looks like I've opened a hornet's nest here..at least it looks like you tossers are staying out of the pub.I've only just taken a severe dislike to this 'aut-off' malarkey, having bikes for the last 25 years. However I have to admit I have once fallen prey to the 'sh*t ....that sidestand must have been down' moment, years ago ..sore and expensive.
So I'm going to go along with motorbiker for the moment, and remember the memory pills in the morning.

are the wires pretty obvious ?? just join/bullet connectors etc ??..may as well have the option ...or why not a handlebar mounted switch...that could be a new post entirely !!

thanks all.
 
The only time in 25 years I have called the RAC out was when I had just bought my 1100 and the sidestand switch failed, I usually remember to flick the stand up, but its scraping sound has alerted me once or twice :D I initially nobbled mine by locating the connector (under the left sidepanel near low bit of the seat) its a two pin job, I stripped all of the insilation off a couple of inches of multi strand copper wire, then did a figure of eight around the two pins on the male half of the connector, then reconnected it, I have since performed a similar operation on my clutch switch, I dont give a feck me :D
 
Is this what you are looking for?

This is the description of how to do it for an R1100RT, but GS should be the same except for fusebox access.

Myke

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:DoNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> [FONT=&quot]In order to fit a relay to enable bike engine to Start & stay running on sidestand, but cut out if the bike is put into gear, the following modifications are needed:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A Siemens relay, Single pole normally open. (526)-V23134-K52-X181 BMW 6136 1389 105 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]( From Breakers, get a yellow “Load relief” relay, base & wiring connectors.)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This relay has a diode in series with terminal 87b, and a consequence, cannot back feed anything else.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Start with bike on main stand, remove seat & rear wheel.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The fusebox & relay plastic box is split into two halves, secured together by 4 self tapping screws installed from above. Only 2 are readily accessable, so remove thee, take out the 2 off 6mm screws ( 1 each side) & press fusebox assembly down slightly. This will give angled access to the other 2 screws. Remove these, & the base of the fusebox assembly bottom cover may be wriggled downwards and off.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]All neccessary wiring is now accessable.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Modifications as follows:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Relay & mounting block fit into unused relay base area in under seat relay box.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The relay base is installed from underneath, pressing it up onto the existing spare bracket.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]On drawing, the following information is useful:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]30 = Battery 12v, always at 12v. (Usually Red Wire)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]31 = 0v. (Usually Brown Wire)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]15 = 12v on with Ignition (Usually Green/White Wire)[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Before installing the relay base unit, the following 4 “tails” are left hanging out of the relay base. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The tails are approx. 200mm long and may be trimmed later as required. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From terminal 30 : Green/White. (15)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From Terminal 85 : Green/black wire.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From Terminal 86b: Brown/Black wire.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]From Terminal 87 : Green/Red.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Relay to be fitted as follows:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Coil Connections: [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]85 Link on to the Green/Black wire going to Fuse 1.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]86b Link on to any of the Brown/Black wires going on to terminal 86a of the starter relay.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Contact connections.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]30 Link on to the lighter of the two Green/White wires going to terminal 86 of the Motronic relay. (There are 2 Green/White wires going to this relay. Be sure to pick the smaller diameter one.) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]87 (The awkward one) Link on to the Green/Red wire from the sidestand switch. (You have to push wire out through grommet to sidestand wiring connection) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Replace the original loom tywrap with a new one clipping the additional wire to the loom.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Now you have to put the base back onto the fusebox. Allow plenty of time for this operation.[/FONT]
 
Its actually easier than all that. Take the sidestand off. Pull the switch off the peg. Turn the switch around so that it is "on" and tie it up out of the way with a cable tie. Put the sidestand back on. Easily reversable if you sell the bike or change your mind. Phil
 


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