Diy brake bleeding

Biffabacon

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Morning all, yes I have done a search but seem to find conflicting opinions, so my question is can the brakes be dismantled then put back together with new fluid.(my bike does have abs ) and be bleed without the abs light coming on,and then having to go to the dealers for them to reset it, thanks in advance for all comments ;)
 
Recently did my front brake when it seized on the sliding pin (2009 658 ABS) no warnings after. However it was only the caliper i removed and not the ABS unit...

S
 
I've just changed the fluid on mine, which naturally includes bleeding the system. ABS or not, the principle is the same. ABS is an electronic interference to the braking system, it does not affect the hydraulics.
 
I'd disagree with that assertion, v8. The ABS system absolutely DOES affect the hydraulics (the fluid path is through the modulator block).

OP, there's no problem bleeding an ABS system, but do try to close the system up if any parts are removed- if the fluid should happen to syphon out, getting airlocks out of the ABS block can be near impossibly in some cases. Likewise ensure the ABS is not actuated with the system open/empty as you could end up with air in the part of the block that is only in the fluid path during ABS pressure dump/restore- an even bigger nightmare to bleed.

And when doing a flush, it's good to actuate the ABS after some fresh fluid has gone through and then flush some more, else there'll be a slug of ancient fluid stuck in the block...
 
Abs ...no abs.. This will not affect any system unless hydraulic pressure is increased with servo assist...
The bmw 1150gs 2002> ( I THINK ) has servo
The 650/800 just has standard brakes ( with abs), Its not Honda link brakes with abs...
Do your self a favor and buy what the dealers use..( they charge a fortune for a fluid swap ) Ive got one and it works on 99% of all brakes, be it car ..bike..kit kat...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-VS...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a19c037b2

Tales about 40 seconds to change fluid on the rear of a bike...abs or not......(excluding 1150 gs - servo)....tosh
 
I'd disagree with that assertion, v8. The ABS system absolutely DOES affect the hydraulics (the fluid path is through the modulator block).

I'll repeat. :rob

I did mine with absolutely no problems. The 650/800 is not servo assisted. It does go via the modulator, which means more fluid, but does not present any problems when bleeding.
 
OK I'll bite, as I know NOTHING about 1150s. What kinda "servo" is it, and how does it improve on the system in the 650? The 650 doesn't look any different to a car system with apply/solenoid hold and reduce, and pumped pressure restore. Do the bigger bikes perhaps run brake assist (EBA) as well, using the pump to augment lever pressure in emergency situations?

My advice is sound. Is it not better the OP recognises that a little knowledge could save a lot of hassle? Accidentally getting a spot of air into a conventional system is no biggie, just pump more fluid through. But do the same on an ABS machine and get the air stuck in the modulator? A whole shedload of annoyance.
 
Servo or no servo, air in the ABS modular means a serious headache.

How of you disconnect a calliper without losing all the fluid. Is there a special tool to close the banjo?
 
I stand to be corrected but with the structure of braided hoses that clamping technique may well damage the line...:nenau

I just raised the line then just used a nut and bolt with a couple of nylon washers through the banjo. No issues.

S
 
Ahh, Sorry I didnt know braided was on the bike..Well in that case use a cork from a wine bottle, Reduce the diameter of said cork to the diameter of the i/d of the banjo...
Get some Plasticine and smother the whole banjo ...
A bolt and nut,and a little shammy leather with a whole. Shammy leather on both sides of the banjo then put the bolt and nut on ( the shammy acts as cork washers)...
Get someone to stick their finger in the banjo...
good luck...tosh
 


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