Do exhaust butterfly valves still jam on later model 1200\1250's ? or is it solved?.

Smogbob said:
Yep we know it is a carbon buildup inside the area you cannot get at, Nickel paste will just help keep it smooth for as long as it lasts, and if it squeaks or jams after warranty, the flamethrower will be out....:D
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I wonder why it is not affecting all Smogbob?
 
I had mine throw up a dash warning last month. 7k miles on a 10/18 r1250rt. Headers and flap replaced under warranty.
On my previous 2013 1200, I lubed the pivots every time I had the silencer off. One one occasion is was stuck in the mid position. Freed it with penetrating oil. Dried out the bushes and then squidged (technical term) copperslip into the pivots with my finger.
Sold bike at 44k with no further issues. It would be nice if they had solved the problem on the 1250.
 
Paulrt said:
I had mine throw up a dash warning last month. 7k miles on a 10/18 r1250rt. Headers and flap replaced under warranty.
On my previous 2013 1200, I lubed the pivots every time I had the silencer off. One one occasion is was stuck in the mid position. Freed it with penetrating oil. Dried out the bushes and then squidged (technical term) copperslip into the pivots with my finger.
Sold bike at 44k with no further issues. It would be nice if they had solved the problem on the 1250.
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Why change a problem that exists........:nenau:augie
 
Paulrt said:
I had mine throw up a dash warning last month. 7k miles on a 10/18 r1250rt. Headers and flap replaced under warranty.
On my previous 2013 1200, I lubed the pivots every time I had the silencer off. One one occasion is was stuck in the mid position. Freed it with penetrating oil. Dried out the bushes and then squidged (technical term) copperslip into the pivots with my finger.
Sold bike at 44k with no further issues. It would be nice if they had solved the problem on the 1250.
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What dash warning. On my 2014 RT there was no dash warning, just a fault code that could only be read from the eco when plugged in at the garage. Is there now a new dash fault warning as well? Or was the warning for something else and when they plugged it in, they saw the flap was showing a fault as well?
 
so...

I'm doing a bit of maintenance on the GSA today - ahead of its french alps trip on the 12th August. The wheels are off for new tyres tomorrow - exhaust off and had a check of the Value - its seized absolutely solid. Worse than i have ever seen it and i only freed it off at the end of June before my italian trip.

I can barely move it by hand so those cables have no chance.

Im so annoyed about this - i keep my bikes in 'tip-top' condition - its always "mint", often to the amusement of my riding mates.

But here it is, 11,000 miles in and its totally gone. Ive doused it in penetrant fluid but i think I'm going to have to disconnect the little metal cables and leave it in the 'open' position.

So annoyed - what a shite design.
 
Mine has started to seize at 6k, going to have the full headers replaced under warranty - truly a mad design, reminds me of the `sealed for life` rear diffs...........
 
Mark Hooton said:
Mine has started to seize at 6k, going to have the full headers replaced under warranty - truly a mad design, reminds me of the `sealed for life` rear diffs...........
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Mine went to the dealer recently for what I was led to believe was a full replacement of the headers, manifold etc to cure a stuck valve. It turns out that they didn't need to replace the pipes but were able to replace only a smaller part which has seemingly cured the problem (which I didn't know existed prior to the recent 12000 service when they pointed it out).
 
mw3230 said:
Mine went to the dealer recently for what I was led to believe was a full replacement of the headers, manifold etc to cure a stuck valve. It turns out that they didn't need to replace the pipes but were able to replace only a smaller part which has seemingly cured the problem (which I didn't know existed prior to the recent 12000 service when they pointed it out).
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Can you tell us which part?
 
i wonder if the stock can gives the exhaust valve a harder time?
its pretty restrictive, so the valve will retain alot more heat.
 
grant123 said:
i wonder if the stock can gives the exhaust valve a harder time?
its pretty restrictive, so the valve will retain alot more heat.
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On my 2014 RT, I had an Akra on for 16k miles, valve still stuck twice
 
grant123 said:
i wonder if the stock can gives the exhaust valve a harder time?
its pretty restrictive, so the valve will retain alot more heat.
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I could be wrong but I thought more heat would burn off the excess fuel better, so as to avoid the carbon build-up, that makes the flapper valve stick, just my non engineer thought.
 
Smogbob said:
I could be wrong but I thought more heat would burn off the excess fuel better, so as to avoid the carbon build-up, that makes the flapper valve stick, just my non engineer thought.
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Can't see how its carbon build up, especially with the cat in place.

I would also add, this isn't a new or unique issue only BMWs face
Most manufacturers have the same issues and design, I have stripped an R1 Stock cat and its simply two bearings the shaft runs on. These bearings will be drying out due to the heat.

see. https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21392
 
G&T said:
Can you tell us which part?
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The chap showed me it in the service reception and it fitted in the palm of his hand but to be honest I didn't look too closely. Judging from the screw heads which have been disturbed on the bike I'd say that it is the part under the black cover to the rear of the rider's right foot - the device that the two cables come from. Sorry not to be more precise or technical
 
mw3230 said:
The chap showed me it in the service reception and it fitted in the palm of his hand but to be honest I didn't look too closely. Judging from the screw heads which have been disturbed on the bike I'd say that it is the part under the black cover to the rear of the rider's right foot - the device that the two cables come from. Sorry not to be more precise or technical
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Interesting - I didn't think that the pulley mechanism was serviceable at all - it appears to be welded to the top of the shaft that holds the valve.

But i'll look closer later..
 
Geekay said:
Interesting - I didn't think that the pulley mechanism was serviceable at all - it appears to be welded to the top of the shaft that holds the valve.

But i'll look closer later..
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He might be talking about the actuator so the other end of the cables
 
casbar said:
He might be talking about the actuator so the other end of the cables
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MW3230 states to the rear of his right foot so must be the pulley mechanism. Maybe it was a pulley/cable issue in this case rather than the flap in the header?
 
BMW sold 84500 R series bikes last year, 51000 were GS/GSA. I wonder if a few hundred exhaust valve failures even show on the radar.

I spoke to a chap 2 weeks ago in Braemar that was very happy with his new GSA, he turned on his ignition to ask me to show him how to adjust some stuff and I heard the tell-tale squealing, he wasn't too smiley when he left the car park after I told him what it was :(
 
G&T said:
MW3230 states to the rear of his right foot so must be the pulley mechanism. Maybe it was a pulley/cable issue in this case rather than the flap in the header?
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the 'rear' of the foot would be the black-encased pulley on the header itself though.

i don't think there's anything service able in there
 
grant123 said:
Can't see how its carbon build up, especially with the cat in place.

I would also add, this isn't a new or unique issue only BMWs face
Most manufacturers have the same issues and design, I have stripped an R1 Stock cat and its simply two bearings the shaft runs on. These bearings will be drying out due to the heat.

see. https://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=21392
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Well I can only go buy what many seem to think it is cat or no cat, it happens to many bikes, so I was thinking, and do this at your own risk, if it is carbon build up, maybe a good spray around the top and bottom of the axe, as if carbon is in there, it has to get in somehow, so why not try something like Ovenpride, or ovenbrite in the spray can, and let it sit for a while, maybe this will help to free up the flapper after a while, it certainly works in oven and on BBQ grills......:rob
 
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