DR-Z400E - strapping to trailer

[WindyChuffer]

Got myself a trailer last night.

I gather some sort of block is needed between the fork crown and the tyre to stop the suspension from compressing too much and popping the seals.

So brace yourself for another numpty question.

What sort of size block? A length of 4 x 2, perhaps shaped a bit to contour round the tyre? Length?

Ta

 

[Timolgra]

....

 

[Timolgra]

Anything that's vaguely long enough and fits under the mudguard.
Most people don't bother, just don't pull it down too hard with the straps

 

[Taff]

Got myself a trailer last night. I gather some sort of block is needed between the fork crown and the tyre to stop the suspension from compressing too much and popping the seals. ... perhaps shaped a bit to contour round the tyre?

You'd be better off contouring it roughly to the shape of the "fork crown".

Tip 1: When you put the block in, wedge it at a slight angle againt the tyre so that when you push the bike forward, the turn of the tyre will hold it in tight. Works brilliantly - especially with knobbly tyres.

Tip 2: Put some kind of hook or clip on the block so that you can secure it with a cable tie / piece of string etc. Otherwise you could lose it. DAMHIKT.

Tip 3: At the very least use cable ties to hold the strap ends in place in case you go over a bad pot-hole etc. Some use carabiners and some use straps with snap-hooks at the end, so that they can't pop off with a sudden jolt. On my first trip with a trailer, I did none of these so DAMHIKT either.

Tip 4: Stop regularly to check everything is ok and adjust as necessary.

 

[WindyChuffer]

Thx.

Looks like a good old "wedgy"' is in order then....

I guess a single ratchet strap over the rear tyre as well? (as the dr-z is lacking in GS style frame work to attach straps to).

 

[PIGGLET]

If you use a block, as said above, make sure it is in someway shaped to aid location in the crown and against the nobbles of the tire.
If it isn't there's a good chance it'll bounce out and then the loss of tension on your straps means your bike's going over. Don't ask me how I know
You can buy a purpose made plastic brace from most MX shops for about £15.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

They do a spacer for the front wheel to bottom of triple braces.
I'll see if I can find it


Found it
Fork saver on fleabay>>
I use one as you can strap down enduros till the tyre squeals but no risk of fecking fork seals up.

 

[WindyChuffer]

Yep, found those, but I cant get one for tonight/tomorro so will have to use a 4x2 DIY lash up in the mean time...

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

why the feck is it going to 'pop' or otherwise ruin the forkseals ??

you pull em down with a ratchet strap - inside their design limit- they stay there till you undo them.?

the spring compresses, the oil flows around a bit - no pressure is built up on most bikes as they are vented.

if they're not - it still won't affect the seals.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

why the feck is it going to 'pop' or otherwise ruin the forkseals ??

you pull em down with a ratchet strap - inside their design limit- they stay there till you undo them.?

the spring compresses, the oil flows around a bit - no pressure is built up on most bikes as they are vented.

if they're not - it still won't affect the seals.

Because O antipodean one>>>
The forks compressed fully mean that all the shock is against the stops, trailers are not known for Rolls Royce ride. ergo it does not do them any favours, using the fork saver still clamps them down tight but does not over strain the forks.
With Trials type bikes the extra long travel does cause problems when securing to trailer, if you compress them slightly too little you risk a strap hook bouncing free. Too much and you do get seals blow I have personal experience of this.
As a belt and braces solution I always use Carabiners to secure my straps to trailer.
plus the handlebar strap that fits across the bike....
only put a single strap across rear, or occasionally just strap back wheel rim to trailer rail

 

[WindyChuffer]

What if you were to use a continuous strap? e.g. like this from Screwfix ?

No hook to break free...so i guess you could get away with less strap tension, and also strap the wheels down:
- 2 straps on Renthal bars
- one strap on front tyre
- one strap on rear tyre

????



BTW - You have to be very careful with carabiners. They are designed to be loaded one way only - along their length. They are not designed to be cross-gate loaded, ie loaded across their width. When using them climbing, this is something you are conscious of the whole time. Maillon Rapide's on the other hand can be loaded in any direction.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

BTW - You have to be very careful with carabiners. They are designed to be loaded one way only - along their length. They are not designed to be cross-gate loaded, ie loaded across their width. When using them climbing, this is something you are conscious of the whole time. Maillon Rapide's on the other hand can be loaded in any direction.

My "Carabiners are actually trailer breakaway cable ones, 12.5mm thick and screw gated oval shape.. even towed a 12 tonne truck using an old seat belt and them
They are actually rated at only 2 tonne tho

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

Because O antipodean one>>>
The forks compressed fully mean that all the shock is against the stops, trailers are not known for Rolls Royce ride. ergo it does not do them any favours, using the fork saver still clamps them down tight but does not over strain the forks.
With Trials type bikes the extra long travel does cause problems when securing to trailer, if you compress them slightly too little you risk a strap hook bouncing free. Too much and you do get seals blow I have personal experience of this.
As a belt and braces solution I always use Carabiners to secure my straps to trailer.
plus the handlebar strap that fits across the bike....
only put a single strap across rear, or occasionally just strap back wheel rim to trailer rail

no - you don't compress the forks fully - leave a coupla inches travel for the very reason of road bumps.

There is no strain on the forks - its springs that you're compressing- its their job they do it all day long.

if the forks seal pops - its incorrectly filled with oil.
Any bike around will experience higher seal pressure forces due to riding on roads and especially off road than a constant force applied on a trailer.

How and whay you use to strap them down with is irrelevant.

 

[Taff]

What if you were to use a continuous strap? e.g. like this from Screwfix ?

BTW - You have to be very careful with carabiners. ...

Windychuffer, sorry but I wouln't trust my pride and joy with one of them. Have a look at post 14 in THIS THREAD if you want some real ratchet porn.

If you've got a snap-hook end, you don't need an expensive Carabiner.

 

[WindyChuffer]

Windychuffer, sorry but I wouln't trust my pride and joy with one of them. Have a look at post 14 in THIS THREAD if you want some real ratchet porn.

If you've got a snap-hook end, you don't need an expensive Carabiner.

Why on earth wouldn't you trust them? They have an ample 0.4 tonne load capacity; as used by white van man day in day out...

 

[(RIP) Proff]

no - you don't compress the forks fully - leave a coupla inches travel for the very reason of road bumps.

There is no strain on the forks - its springs that you're compressing- its their job they do it all day long.

if the forks seal pops - its incorrectly filled with oil.
Any bike around will experience higher seal pressure forces due to riding on roads and especially off road than a constant force applied on a trailer.

How and whay you use to strap them down with is irrelevant.

1 big bump plus coupla inches of travel =50/50 chance of hook bouncing out..
unless you use carabiner type fastenings
DAMHIK

 

[steveh]

i use this...

http://www.superbikeschool.co.uk/product.php?show=2,19,57

 

[Taff]

Why on earth wouldn't you trust them? They have an ample 0.4 tonne load capacity; as used by white van man day in day out...

Sorry - my mistake. I only had a quick squint at the link and thought that the photo showed one of those straps with a toothed spring clip at the end, not a ratchet.

I've heard some horror stories about those spring clips. No doubt someone is now going to say that NASA rate them very highly and they're used on all Shuttle missions but if I was carrying a heavy £8,000 bike, I wouldn't skimp on the ratchet straps.

What if you were to use a continuous strap?

I can see the logic, but you'd still need to hold it in place somehow to stop it moving about, wouldn't you?