Driveshaft Splines

[LakesRider]

So, without igniting a debate about whether this is worth doing or not.....

I have bought a 2008 R1200GS. 43k miles. It is very clean, but as part of a service I would like to check the driveshaft and make sure that it is not rusted into the final drive. To be honest, I am just interested to see how well it has been maintained and cared for.

I have bought the bits I need to change the final drive oil from MotoWorks, and at the same time I will try to drop the final drive off the driveshaft and clean and lubricate the splines and check the gasket.

I have seen all kinds of opinions on this, but the general idea seems to be that it doesn't hurt to do this job each year.

My question is, what about the gearbox end? As I haven't owned the bike from new, and it has had independent servicing for the last few years, I wouldn't mind checking the gearbox end, even if it doesn't need done as regularly? Can I try to pull it out through the swingarm without levering it off at the gearbox end? The access looks tight at that end! I assume if it is corroded at all, I will need to ease back the gasket at the gearbox end to lever it off, and for reinstating it into the gearbox when it is cleaned and greased? I have also read about a circlip on that end - does that need to be accessed and removed first and reinstalled later?

Anyone who has done this job, I would appreciate any advice. I would quite like to remove the whole driveshaft just to feel it is in good order.

Any advice from someone who has done the job gratefully received.

Thanks all

Phil

 

[SnowMec]

Since your motorcycle is a couple of years old, I recommend removing and disassembling the entire swingarm.
Then you can also clean the bearings and grease them and check that the rubber boots are ok.
It is easy to drain/fill the oil in the final drive when it is loose and you can then check the universal joint at the gearbox as well.
It is relatively easy to do this, no difficulties for those who are used to working with motorcycles.

 

[botus]

do they drop the back off the splines when they did the steel hub circa 2015 ?

once you drop the rear bevel, the drive shaft sits part hanging out the swinging arm - taking the clip off the front gator - you can get a big flat screwdriver on the shaft - a bit of wood to stop screwing the paint on the gearbox casing and just pop off the front - then wiggle the shaft out the back - check the UJs are free of slop and move nicely, grease the splines up and wiggle it back in - then you find the fun where there is no room to lift the shaft up 2" to try and get it back on the splines - when I say no room, you can't see it let alone touch it - get a bit of 1/2" wide metal strip longer than the shaft and slide it in the arm beneath the shaft and fight it....

but I just thought - can you tie a bit of wire around the joint at the front and drag it out with the shaft - leave the wire hanging out the end as you check and lube the shaft - then to get it back on, pull it through and lift up via the wire - once nearly there you can just about touch and wiggle the joint square and get it to slide on the gearbox output - then go round the back and lever the shaft with a screwdriver on the inner lip of the end of the swinging arm - and just pop it back over the c clip on the gearbox output shaft

 

[Miserable Git]

I’ve seen a driveshaft recently from a 48,000 mile, 2007 GSA with full BMW history and the spline at the FD end was so worn that it was close to jumping the splines. If you do remove the drive shaft completely, you’ll be able to try it on the spline to see how much slop, if any, there is.

 

[LakesRider]

Amazing, thanks all.

I think it would be good to see what state it is all in, and check the UJ’s

Just worried about getting it back on!

That helps, thanks

Phil.

 

[seahorse]

Front splines shouldn't wear as it is located by the circlip as mentioned above. Removing the final drive is actually straightforward enough. Even the re engaging of the splines on reassembly is not a big deal. When you have done it once you'll have worked out your technique. Good time also to check and grease the drive pivot bearings. Good advice above to pull the swing arm as well so you can check the bearings there and the rubber boot. If you want to remove the shaft to check front splines it will be easier with the swing arm out.

 

[LakesRider]

do they drop the back off the splines when they did the steel hub circa 2015 ?

once you drop the rear bevel, the drive shaft sits part hanging out the swinging arm - taking the clip off the front gator - you can get a big flat screwdriver on the shaft - a bit of wood to stop screwing the paint on the gearbox casing and just pop off the front - then wiggle the shaft out the back - check the UJs are free of slop and move nicely, grease the splines up and wiggle it back in - then you find the fun where there is no room to lift the shaft up 2" to try and get it back on the splines - when I say no room, you can't see it let alone touch it - get a bit of 1/2" wide metal strip longer than the shaft and slide it in the arm beneath the shaft and fight it....

but I just thought - can you tie a bit of wire around the joint at the front and drag it out with the shaft - leave the wire hanging out the end as you check and lube the shaft - then to get it back on, pull it through and lift up via the wire - once nearly there you can just about touch and wiggle the joint square and get it to slide on the gearbox output - then go round the back and lever the shaft with a screwdriver on the inner lip of the end of the swinging arm - and just pop it back over the c clip on the gearbox output shaft

That's a great idea with the wire! Thanks, I might try that.

 

[seahorse]

Take the swing arm out and you won't need it.

 

[LakesRider]

Front splines shouldn't wear as it is located by the circlip as mentioned above. Removing the final drive is actually straightforward enough. Even the re engaging of the splines on reassembly is not a big deal. When you have done it once you'll have worked out your technique. Good time also to check and grease the drive pivot bearings. Good advice above to pull the swing arm as well so you can check the bearings there and the rubber boot. If you want to remove the shaft to check front splines it will be easier with the swing arm out.

Do I need to remove the circlip to get the shaft out at the gearbox end then, or does it just pop out?

 

[botus]

you don't remove - its on the gearbox shaft axially - therefore its not possible to reach it when the shaft is on - only to mess it up if an animal on reassembly - get the UJ on square get pressure equal and it should compress nicely as the joint slides over it

 

[LakesRider]

you don't remove - its on the gearbox shaft axially - therefore its not possible to reach it when the shaft is on - only to mess it up if an animal on reassembly - get the UJ on square get pressure equal and it should compress nicely as the joint slides over it

Okay, I think it will make more sense when I have it apart. Worth ordering a spare in case it needs replaced?

 

[seahorse]

I doubt you'll need one but it's only a quid or so.

 

[LakesRider]

Thanks for all the advice. The final drive end was very good, grease on the splines and all in good order. Very small amount of paste on the drain plug, not sure how much is enough to worry about?

Oil that came out looked new.

Found out that the fill plug is not on the outside, but on the inside, and is removed through the rear disk. That baffled me for a while.

Ended up leaving the gearbox end. Pulled the boot back and it looked just as clean. Sealed up well and visible grease. Will do both ends when I next service it.

Mostly reassembled, thanks for your help everyone.

 

[seahorse]

Small amount of paste as you describe not a worry, clean oil is a good sign.

 

[LakesRider]

Small amount of paste as you describe not a worry, clean oil is a good sign.

Thanks, it was all encouraging!

Will complete the assembly tomorrow and test.

Thanks everyone.

 

[dashfixer]

Make sure that the rubber boots at either end of the drive shaft are correctly seated when you re-assemble, and use the correct paste on them. Do not use silicon sealant. I checked my UJs and splines for the first time 6 mths ago and they were great. My bike is an 09 with 89k miles on it, ridden in all weathers all year. I believe that if you keep the boots in good condition and sealed correctly then no water gets in to degrade the drive shaft.