Electrical (hall or ECU) problem

[asnore]

After some hard riding by the sea I driven through the forest to the home ~5miles, and at the halfway the bike stopped, and as I checked, there was no spark. I couldn't do any repairs to the electrics (hadn't tester and it was going to be dark after few hours), and as a result I had to bring my bike out of forest, which was about 3 hours effort in the heavy rain and cold weather (thanx to one KTM rider, which helped to bring bike over one hill). I started to really hate BMW as I have driven honda before for 3 years without any problems.
But now I am calmed down and ready to repair the old bastard

So the question:
Can I somehow check if ECU is OK, for example connect or cut out power from one of the central pins of the hall unit connector (probably orange) to the pin whitch is used to receive signal from hall sensor unit and see spark?
I found at the internet only how to check hall units, but I would like to see if I have spark if I send signal to ecu bypassing HES, and so prove that ecu is allright.

Thx for answers,
Zivsteevs

 

[asnore]

Small mistake

http://and.apollo.lv/conn.jpg
The question is: Should ECU give a spark if I will ground orange or black wire from the side of ECU with unplugged connector or should I connect power from red wire to black or orange wire and take it off to get spark?
Or these are false assumptions and this will not work or brake electronics?

Regards,
Zivsteevs

 

[roddy]

this thread maybe of some use as long as it's a 1100GS you have, though I suspect the principle will work on the 1150.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93366&highlight=hall

HTH

 

[Gordon]

this thread maybe of some use as long as it's a 1100GS you have, though I suspect the principle will work on the 1150.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthr...highlight=hall

HTH

This thread relates to my bike and the diagnosis by Steptoe was spot on. I carried out the 'Steptoe test' and confirmed that the hall unit was dead. I fitted a new hall unit on saturday and problem now cured.

 

[Straypuss]

Any use?

http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php

 

[asnore]

no no no

I have read these threads, but the question is - how to test ECU, not hall sensors, cause this can be done more easily on the trip too. I have made LED test on HES and it was OK, but on the other hand, I have read at advrider or here that someone passed LED test for HES, but HES was still faulty. So I want to see if ECU is allright, then I would be 100% sure that HES is dead.

Idea is just test the spark bypassing hall sensors.

Regards,
Zivsteevs

 

[Tsiklonaut]

You mean to test Motronic then?

Your 1100 has Motronic 2.2, 1150s have Motronic 2.4. The diagnostic plug is under the seat, that 3-pin one.

Description how to do it and the fault codes are described here: http://www.largiader.com/articles/motronic.html

Note that time-to-time it gives Hall faults, even if the Hall sensors are working fully, just it hasn't got enough crank rotation to get a reading from them on some cases. Re-test it after turning over the engine few times with the starter to be sure.

And check your ignition coil yourself and ignition wiring if it reports no faults.

 

[asnore]

Yeah, but test practically


I cannot start engine, so I can't read codes, the hall sensor code will be there definitely if I can't start engine. I want somehow to connect these hall sensor wires to test for spark at the spark plugs with turned on ignition and to be 100% sure that hall sensor is faulty. At the trips it would also be very handy to know how to test spark by grounding or connecting some power to pin of unplugged hall sensor connector, as it is very easy and requires no additional devices and proves that everything from ECU to Spark plugs is more or less OK.
Regards,
Zivsteevs

 

[asnore]

Test

Also as I read , LED test mentioned at: http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php is not safe. If it fails, it is 100% that Hall is dead, but if it not fails, as in my situation, you cannot be sure that it is ok as there is very low amp power.

 

[asnore]

Working again it was hall effect sensor wires, their isolation desintegrated, replaced wires by silicone from local electrics shop and now the bike is back running.

 

[asnore]

pics

Few pics how I made shielded wire from aluminium foil and silicon isolated wires
http://and.apollo.lv/1.jpg Old wires
http://and.apollo.lv/2.jpg New wires
http://and.apollo.lv/3.jpg Only left to heat the wires for tube to shrink

 

[Tsiklonaut]

Nicely done m8

It's a common fault both on 1100 & 1150 as I understand, most of the tossers tend to replace the whole Hall sensor assembly coz it's easier while at least on half of the cases it's the bad wires not the sensor(s). The later is a much cheaper version how to fix it of course