End can refit

[Les Wassall]

Having just fitted the Andy Cam Y piece, without to much problem, the only snag I have had is refitting the can, the bolt that holds the can onto the frame was a pig to locate and the real ball ache is trying to get the torque setting to 35nm.
The bolt just wants to keep turning and I can not seem to get the torque setting, I don't want to strip the threads, am I doing something wrong? Or is this a case of grit your teeth and give it some!

 

[Madmountainman]

It's a bit of a fiddle and does feel like you're going to cross thread it. Takes a little perseverance and just do it up tight, you don't really need a torque wrench for that particular nut and bolt.
Try taking the can off again and make sure the bolt screws in correctly on it's own to ensure you've not cross threaded it and then go at it again.

 

[Davey B]

Les, if its the BM can ignore, if its a remus, i find loosening the two bracket bolts off and fitting the frame bolt first, the easiest way.

 

[Les Wassall]

 

[The Mechanic]

Take care...

If you are using the original B*w clamps they don't actually clamp the 'y'piece onto the front pipes unless you remove the spacer from between the clamp faces. The bolt is an interference fit in the spacer so need to be driven out, the pressure face spacer (the one between the nut and the clamp also needs to have its hole opened up a bit (painful) to pass further up the bolt. Don't fret you'll see what I'm getting at when you look at the clamp.

Incidently if you can't seal the new installation its because of the above. Ditto with the rear silencer, if you are using the standard box the clamp will need to be modded, again because the spacer prevents you obtaining full clamping force around the silencer pipe.

The rear silencer mounting bolt is difficult to fit because the 'y' piece tail pipe puts the silencer just a bit too low.

I had to rebend the pipe an extra (say 1 degree) to allow the silencer to line up for the bolt to go in, by the way it should go in easily, if its under too much stress something will break.

When you took off the original parts everything was stress free and all nicely aligned, look at the B*w cuts in the cat pipes and silencer pipe, when the clamps are used as normal the whole thing is designed to seal without distortion.

I have e-mailed Andy about these probs and he has said he will pass onto to constructor.

If you want to use the B*w clamps properly then ypu will need to make up some thin metal strip inserts to between the clamp and the front pipes this increases the clamping force on the pipes.

My bikes a 2003 model but I doubt there will be much difference in the pipe work from 2001 on.

The 'Y' piece shines up lovely with elbow grease and Autosolvol.

For the price the 'Y' piece is very good and I am thoroughly satisfied with mine.

Any fitting problems and you can e-mail at:

[email protected]

 

[Les Wassall]

Thanks for the info Tony, I had done the mod on the front clamps, but the silencer seems to have sealed, I took the clamp off and gave it a good clean, removed the rust build up on the inside and it seems to bite ok as there is no movement, also used a bit of silicon seal, if it sounds like its blowing I will remove and mod.
The frame/can bolt is in, but not untill I run a tap through to clean the threads, but it still keeps turning if I carried on, (it does not seem to hit the metal spacer through the centre of the bush), but I feel its plenty tight now so I will leave it alone.
If you think its the better idea to mod the can clamp now let me know and I will get it done, did give it a go but the spacer did not want to shift like the other two, so thats why it was left.



Les

 

[The Mechanic]

End can.

Thanks for the info Tony, I had done the mod on the front clamps, but the silencer seems to have sealed, I took the clamp off and gave it a good clean, removed the rust build up on the inside and it seems to bite ok as there is no movement, also used a bit of silicon seal, if it sounds like its blowing I will remove and mod.
The frame/can bolt is in, but not untill I run a tap through to clean the threads, but it still keeps turning if I carried on, (it does not seem to hit the metal spacer through the centre of the bush), but I feel its plenty tight now so I will leave it alone.
If you think its the better idea to mod the can clamp now let me know and I will get it done, did give it a go but the spacer did not want to shift like the other two, so thats why it was left.



Les

The rear most clamp spacer is a tight swine but it will come out the same as the other clamp spacers eventually. I found with mine that even fully tightened (spacer still in place) that with the silencer mounting detached the can could still be rotated fairly easily.

When you install the silencer hanger bolt support the can on your shoulder and push up slightly to ease alignment of the silencer rubber tube mount.

As I said earlier the system should not be under too much strain (pressure to align everything up) otherwise something might break.

 

[Les Wassall]

Thanks Tony, I think its sorted now, I have removed the spacer on the can clamp to stop the rotation, and the hanger bolt is in with supporting it, not gone to tight on the bolt, feel sure its not going to come out.



Les