ESA problem

I've had the same issues as you with my Wilbers ESA replacement. It seems as the stepper motor had failed - contrary to popular belief they fail regularly enough for Wilbers to make their own.

They corrode.

I cannot be sure that the Wilbers replacement stepper has cured the problem until I re-fit it over the weekend and even then it may need to be re-set by BMW before the adjustment works.

I'll post up the results when known.
 
As nothing is happening with 2nd long press, I'm wondering if the system thinks the bike is moving, which is why I asked if anyone could try altering on move to see what indication was.

Just in from work now, will try the battery disconection and reconection idea when I wake up. You never know, it works on the Airbus's I look after.

You might be onto something there - when my Throttle Position Sensor started playing up, the onboard oil level display stopped working (most of the time). I think this was because the computer did not know the engine was idling.
 
OK, lots of good advice here, but could it be more simple. try using switch cleaner on the switch then after a minute blow it all out using compressed air - ensuring all H & S considerations are taken into account obviously ;) on my last bike a 2010 GS dirt had got into the switch giving the same problem.

The only thing was my wife thought the suspension was still working correctly when changing - it wasnt.
After cleaning it all was well.:bounce1
 
OK, lots of good advice here, but could it be more simple. try using switch cleaner on the switch then after a minute blow it all out using compressed air - ensuring all H & S considerations are taken into account obviously ;) on my last bike a 2010 GS dirt had got into the switch giving the same problem.

The only thing was my wife thought the suspension was still working correctly when changing - it wasnt.
After cleaning it all was well.:bounce1

I can't see it being the switch as the OP states that works when changing the damping settings and its the same switch to change the preload.
 
I've had the same issues as you with my Wilbers ESA replacement. It seems as the stepper motor had failed - contrary to popular belief they fail regularly enough for Wilbers to make their own.

They corrode.

I cannot be sure that the Wilbers replacement stepper has cured the problem until I re-fit it over the weekend and even then it may need to be re-set by BMW before the adjustment works.

I'll post up the results when known.

Good info...I didn't know Wilbers also makes the motor...I have the WESAs installed now...
 
Revs now stock them.

I haven't seen the stepper yet but by all accounts it's a bit of a mess.

Getting it back today so will post a piccie.
 
Well, I tried the sugestion of disconecting ( and reconecting - thats for Wapping as he thinks I'm a complete numpyty;))the battery, no luck.
I've got a suspicion that the ABS is not turning off either, again something that needs the bike stopped for. But, the oil level indication is working, again the bike must be stationary.
A while back I had a problem when the neutral indication was lost, other gear indications were OK, just the green neutral light and the N in the gear display. After a day, it came back all by its self, but I don't think I've tried to use the ESA since then.
I would have thought that if one of the shocks was knackered, then the ESA display would flash as it tried to change setting, but as I said, it just constantly shows one helmet.
I have given the pushbutton a good spray with contact cleaner, but again the damping mode works OK, so I doubt if its the button. Stever1, what indications were you getting before cleaning the switch.
 
it was a case of no matter how long i held the switch for it did not change from one helmet.
 
I would have thought that if one of the shocks was knackered, then the ESA display would flash as it tried to change setting, but as I said, it just constantly shows one helmet.
.

As per my earlier post it is exactly the same as mine. Check the boot where the cable goes in to the bottom part of the shock - on mine it was split and let in water. The stepper motor was as rusty as a 1970's Lancia and seized.

You may want to connect it to a GS-911 tool as mine said the shock was short circuiting.

Putting the Wilbers back on tomorrow with a new stepper- hopefully it will work!
 
Checked both front and rear shock lower conections, both clean and dry.
But I have found that where the lead goes into the rear shock ESA unit the rubber boot is split. If water has got in there, then thats where the motor is for the preload adjustment. I tried to spray WD40 through where the wires go, but I don't think anything went in.
 

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As per my earlier post it is exactly the same as mine. Check the boot where the cable goes in to the bottom part of the shock - on mine it was split and let in water. The stepper motor was as rusty as a 1970's Lancia and seized.

You may want to connect it to a GS-911 tool as mine said the shock was short circuiting.

Putting the Wilbers back on tomorrow with a new stepper- hopefully it will work!

Well I put it back on and first chance to ride it was today. The new stepper that was put in by Revs has worked - the adjustment to the damping rates is obvious - so obvious that a numpty like me can feel it.

With hindsight damping adjustment probably wasn't working when I bought the bike, but as I could feel the bike going up and down when cycling through the adjustments I assumed I wasn't sensitive enough to notice. Now after reading others comments about how they really notice the difference I firmly believe it was fooked.

So for any of you reading this who cannot feel the damping being adjusted I suggest you take it back to the dealers or specialists (particularly if under warranty) and get it checked before the warranty runs out - I wish I had.

Still got the preload to sort - back to SBW for them to program the shock on Thursday.
 
Well I put it back on and first chance to ride it was today. The new stepper that was put in by Revs has worked - the adjustment to the damping rates is obvious - so obvious that a numpty like me can feel it.

With hindsight damping adjustment probably wasn't working when I bought the bike, but as I could feel the bike going up and down when cycling through the adjustments I assumed I wasn't sensitive enough to notice. Now after reading others comments about how they really notice the difference I firmly believe it was fooked.

So for any of you reading this who cannot feel the damping being adjusted I suggest you take it back to the dealers or specialists (particularly if under warranty) and get it checked before the warranty runs out - I wish I had.

Still got the preload to sort - back to SBW for them to program the shock on Thursday.

Out of interest, why does it need to go to a dealer to be re-programmed for the pre-load?

Also, there's a reasonable chance you can tell if the damping steppers are working as you can hear them (front and rear) when you change the settings with the engine off.
 
MR Bean,
I just talked to Jon at Revs, and he confirmed that it was your damper stepper motor U/S.
From what I described he thought that I have a wiring problem.
Later on this month, when the bike goes for its service, I'll get them to see what the computer says.
 
Out of interest, why does it need to go to a dealer to be re-programmed for the pre-load?

Also, there's a reasonable chance you can tell if the damping steppers are working as you can hear them (front and rear) when you change the settings with the engine off.

AFAIK it's to tell the computer thingy where it's sitting - but I am happy to be corrected.

The fact that I couldn't hear them without the engine running probably confirms that there was an issue - that or I am aurally challenged!
 
MR Bean,
I just talked to Jon at Revs, and he confirmed that it was your damper stepper motor U/S.
From what I described he thought that I have a wiring problem.
Later on this month, when the bike goes for its service, I'll get them to see what the computer says.

Please post the diagnosis when it's been corrected.

Out of interest. Can you easily tell the difference between the different damping modes?
 
I gave the ESA a close check over when I bought my 33K miles 08. All was fine and the rear unit has under 5K miles - replaced under warranty. The different damping and spring settings are easy to detect especially if you select the off road options.
 
I gave the ESA a close check over when I bought my 33K miles 08. All was fine and the rear unit has under 5K miles - replaced under warranty. The different damping and spring settings are easy to detect especially if you select the off road options.

If only I had been as diligent.

Does make me wonder if there are others like me, that can't tell the difference in damping and may have a problem that will surface later.
 


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