Essential additional maintenance

Bungy

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I am very quickly learning that main dealer servicing doesn't cover everything that these bikes need to keep them tip top. Recently I have had a seized rear brake calliper and after freeing this up the fronts needed attention to the pad retaining pins.

Is there anything else I should be paying attention to in between man services other than general cleaning?
 
I have a long list that I've made over the years after working on customers bikes and seeing the same old problems that can be averted by preventive maintenance. I'll give you one . The throttle cable adjusters. Unscrew, grease once a year when balancing throttle bodies . Otherwise if left for long periods the adjusters can snap, which means you can't adjust and need to replace the throttle cables.
 
I have 47,000 miles on my bike

(R1200RT) & change the oil & filter every year before I park it for the winter.
Other than that - nothing, other than fix anything that's broke, and that is precious little. No gearbox, bevel drive or brake fluid checks or changes. No tappets check. Nothing.
8 years and round Europe every year. Some people look for things to do when nothing needs doing.
Myke
 
(R1200RT) & change the oil & filter every year before I park it for the winter.
Other than that - nothing, other than fix anything that's broke, and that is precious little. No gearbox, bevel drive or brake fluid checks or changes. No tappets check. Nothing.
8 years and round Europe every year. Some people look for things to do when nothing needs doing.
Myke

You are a lucky man. But then again judging the possible "NON STANDARD MAINTENENCE" problems from a SINGLE bike is pretty pointless.

There are more future problems looming on the RT models than the GS bikes.
I'll give you another single example from my long RT list.......
The bolts that hold the handlebars sections (the GS has a different bar set up and on the GS they don't need to be removed to change the fork seals).

The problem is the bolts seize and can snap off if left in place undisturbed a long period. So a simple job like a fork seal change can turn into an absolute saga which is easily preventable.
Remove the bolts and use an anti seize paste.
This also applies to the 1100/1150RT, R850R (pre1999) and R1100R models .
 
You are a lucky man. But then again judging the possible "NON STANDARD MAINTENENCE" problems from a SINGLE bike is pretty pointless.

There are more future problems looming on the RT models than the GS bikes.
I'll give you another single example from my long RT list.......
The bolts that hold the handlebars sections (the GS has a different bar set up and on the GS they don't need to be removed to change the fork seals).

The problem is the bolts seize and can snap off if left in place undisturbed a long period. So a simple job like a fork seal change can turn into an absolute saga which is easily preventable.
Remove the bolts and use an anti seize paste.
This also applies to the 1100/1150RT, R850R (pre1999) and R1100R models .

This is a problem on a 1200GS too. I had to take the bars off mine a few weeks ago - it must be about 5 years since they were last off to fit bar risers. The bolts required the use of a breaker bar to gently undo them and luckily they came out without snapping. Put back in with a liberal coating of anti seize paste. If they're not already corroded in its a quick and easy job to do so well worth doing.
 
You are a lucky man. But then again judging the possible "NON STANDARD MAINTENENCE" problems from a SINGLE bike is pretty pointless.

There are more future problems looming on the RT models than the GS bikes.
I'll give you another single example from my long RT list.......
The bolts that hold the handlebars sections (the GS has a different bar set up and on the GS they don't need to be removed to change the fork seals).

The problem is the bolts seize and can snap off if left in place undisturbed a long period. So a simple job like a fork seal change can turn into an absolute saga which is easily preventable.
Remove the bolts and use an anti seize paste.
This also applies to the 1100/1150RT, R850R (pre1999) and R1100R models .
Lucky me!
When I bought the bike, I found the handlebar riding position too far forward/low, so the first thing I did was buy a set of spacers to move the bars back & up.
A lesson learned as a teenager is: When you dismantle anything on any motor vehicle, always copaslip/grease it before reassembly.
This has served me well since then.
Myke
 
The FD case paint finish will corrode at the shovel bolt hole and gasket joint face. Copper grease or better a High spec paste like Rocol on the screw threads will stop the problem. Ditto engine front cover screws. You could also stick a sealing tape along the joint face. But who knows where you would find such stuff. Helicopter tape maybe.

Trim the edge off the alternator belt cover and mount it on washers. The plastic edge frets at the cover paint and the screw threads start corrosion under the paint.

Remove the alternator and soak in preserving oil. If the bike is not used regularly the laminations rust and expand until the alternator jams solid. This would be the same with most cars to be honest.
 
You are a lucky man. But then again judging the possible "NON STANDARD MAINTENENCE" problems from a SINGLE bike is pretty pointless.

There are more future problems looming on the RT models than the GS bikes.
I'll give you another single example from my long RT list.......
The bolts that hold the handlebars sections (the GS has a different bar set up and on the GS they don't need to be removed to change the fork seals).

The problem is the bolts seize and can snap off if left in place undisturbed a long period. So a simple job like a fork seal change can turn into an absolute saga which is easily preventable.
Remove the bolts and use an anti seize paste.
This also applies to the 1100/1150RT, R850R (pre1999) and R1100R models .

Apols if this topic has been done to death but am about to remove / replace both wheels (inc front brake calipers) so new tyres can be fitted, and the question is.... do I apply spot of grease to all the bolts before refitting and torque-up or not??????????
 
Good thread..i use anti seize on nearly all bolts, wheels, calipers, due to the nature of the shite materials their made of..i do check them regularly but never have to re-torque, im sure the TORX bolts on the new GS are made from some sort of cheese :D
 
Torx socket heads are so annoying, because I virtually always pick up the key one side too small. So I have to take two or even three out of the box and end up with the floor around the bike covered in Torx keys. Use the too small key just once and the screw head will be damaged and rust.
 
I have a long list that I've made over the years after working on customers bikes and seeing the same old problems that can be averted by preventive maintenance. I'll give you one . The throttle cable adjusters. Unscrew, grease once a year when balancing throttle bodies . Otherwise if left for long periods the adjusters can snap, which means you can't adjust and need to replace the throttle cables.

You service the bikes the dealers just tick boxes and change the oils thats the difference :thumb2
 
I am very quickly learning that main dealer servicing doesn't cover everything that these bikes need to keep them tip top. Recently I have had a seized rear brake calliper and after freeing this up the fronts needed attention to the pad retaining pins.

Is there anything else I should be paying attention to in between man services other than general cleaning?

While my GS was under warranty I had it dealer serviced, likewise my current KTM. After the warranty expires I do it myself.

Anyway, at every service, both my GS and KTM had the callipers off, cleaned up and copper slipped where appropriate.
I've no idea if I've just hit on two good dealers or it's actually on the service schedule :nenau

Andres
 
Front and rear callipers have had some attention by me and I think there is a distinct lack of minor items on the service schedule. My windscreen lower pivots had also seized solid but I managed to remove them, clean and grease with copper crest.
 
I am very quickly learning that main dealer servicing doesn't cover everything that these bikes need to keep them tip top. Recently I have had a seized rear brake calliper and after freeing this up the fronts needed attention to the pad retaining pins.

Is there anything else I should be paying attention to in between man services other than general cleaning?

" man services " :yikes:yikes
 


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