For those that don't know me well, I retired in June 2024 just before my 59th birthday.
In June / July of 2024 I did my first proper European bike tour on an R1250 GS with the low chassis, low seat and a side stand with an extra lug on it to help get the bike off the stand.
I’m all of 5’ 3” “tall”, so I need all the help I can get. I had reconnected with my old friend Adrien Ong in 2022 (I think). I met some of his biking friends for the first time and Alan McKee who I’d met a long time before when he had his business at Silverstone. The 2024 French tour was with Al and Ade and I loved it. As a confirmed sports bike nut, I’d long poo pooed the GS, but that tour converted me.
I got my R1300GS (low seat + adaptive vehicle height control and another adapted side stand) on the 31st of March. Al decided not to do this tour, but another friend of both Ade and mine (albeit via separate situations) Phil Hobden was up for it, but couldn’t do the whole duration and doesn’t have a touring /adventure bike of his own, so arranged to fly out, hire a bike and join us a few days into the tour.
Ade has done lots of tours over several years and is great at route planning and sorting our accommodation.
The dates and the route started to get properly firmed up as the date neared. We had spoken about Eastern Europe but Ade suggested heading South and visiting Corsica and Sardinia which sounded great.
I was excited in the days before, checking & re-checking my packing list, determined not to take too much. We ride with just a tank bag, top box & roll bag to avoid having too much luggage to take into our hotel at the end of a long day.
As a precaution I got a new rear tire just before the off and my part used one is being kept for me to use up next.
Monday June 16th - Day 1 Home to Bouillon
I met with Ade at the last petrol before the Eurotunnel at Folkstone. As we drove through the car park enroute to the train, we passed dozens of Ford Mustangs. We parked up at the barrier behind a guy on a big Indian motorbike with leather tassels all over the shop.
Getting off the main roads straight away, we rode some surprising excellent D roads just South of Calais. As we rode through the Ardennes to Boullion the roads were excellent and the traffic light. The Hotel de la Poste was very nice. We had a very nice dinner, but no a/c in our room & a noisy fan was not great.
Tuesday June 17th - Day 2 Bouillon to Landhotel Lowen
Four countries today. Belgium, France, Luxembourg and Germany. We had breakfast of good coffee & croissants in the centre of Luxembourg City. The very heavy Police presence indicated there were some dignitaries arriving in the square we were sat in very soon. In fact, we just left before being moved on.
The riding through the Black Forest in particular was spectacularly good. We stopped off at the Black Forest tourist trap of Mummelsee for a break and refreshments.
344 miles and 7 hours 45 minutes of riding under clear blue skies.
Phil joined Ade and I for an excellent dinner at a couple of well-deserved beers at the Landhotel Lowen in Germany, having ridden up from Madrid on the 1300 GS he hired from Hertz.
Wednesday June 18th - Day 3 Landhotel Lowen to Oberalpass, Switzerland
After breakfast we rode towards Switzerland, passing the IWC factory just outside Scaffhausen. The traffic was a bit heavy getting to Lake Zurich, but once of the banks, the scenery was impressive. We had an absolute blast riding the Susten, Grimsel, Furka and Gottard Passes. The latter in both directions. Near and in the Furka pass, we kept seeing Singer Porsches and once parked up at the Hotel Belvedere, we looked down and saw one of the support vehicles. One of the cars had Montana plates. Looked like a very slick, very expensive event. Our hotel was at Oberalpass, above Andermatt in Switzerland. It was pretty nice and although the dinner was a fixed menu it was pretty good. The cost was certainly much less than in Andermatt itself.
Thursday June 19th - Day 4 Oberalpass to Genoa via the Stelvio Pass
It was a beautiful morning. Ade and I set off to ride the Stelvio Pass in Italy. Phil unfortunately had some work stuff to attend to, so would meet us in Genoa.
The riding towards the Stelvio was mostly excellent, but we got a bit held up getting through the town of Chur. Riding up to the Stelvio from the North was excellent, until one steep, uphill stretch where the road was being repaired & we were forced to ride on deep, loose gravel. Now tight U-turns aside, my least favourite manoeuvre is the very tight, steep uphill hairpin right and on one of those I ran a bit too wide on the loose gravel. The front wheel got stuck in rut & when I put my right foot down, it went into a depression in the road. I tried desperately for several seconds not to drop the bike, Ade said it sounded like I was giving birth over the intercom, but eventually, the bike went down on its right side. Several bikers who had been a little behind me, stopped to help me get the bike lifted up & I was soon on my way again. The damage was thankfully very minor, but I was hot & bothered. My mouth was completely dry and finding a reasonably level parking spot sat the top of the Stelvio was a challenge I was not in the mood for. But once parked up, with a bratwurst and a cold drink I started to feel much better.
The Stelvio had not long been open so it was very busy. Spectacular scenery, but far too much traffic for it to be really enjoyable. Ade wanted to turn round at the bottom and go up the main side again, but uphill had little appeal and I decided to take an alternative route to Genoa utilising the Autostradas.
Ade did go back up, but two bikes had a head on that afternoon causing big delays.
The first hour or so of my ride from the Stelvio was awful. Single carriageway main roads through towns and villages with loads of articulate lorries in very hot weather. It was a relief the get on the Autostrada, but it was a long, pretty boring slog south. Super big day for me at 454 miles, 9 hours 27 minutes of riding from the hotel this morning to Genova this evening.
Phil had arrived a bit earlier, Ade not much. I quickly showered and we went out for a good meal and several beers.
Friday June 20th Day 5 Genoe to Calvi, Corsica
The traffic was bad getting to the ferry in Genoa so we were late leaving, but we had a smooth crossing with perfect weather. Ade and I took in a few (too many) rays on deck while Phil sought the shade.
We docked in Bastia Corsica to glorious sunshine and after getting out of the ferry terminal using our best London commuting techniques we were soon on our way to the northern tip of Corsica. The roads there were quite narrow and bumpy but the scenery was good and there were millions of butterflies flying about. Very pretty, but not great for keeping visors or cameras lenses clean.
Once we got onto the coast road heading South to Calvi the riding was magical. Mile after mile of flowing bends with spectacular coastal scenery to our right. Something like 2000 bends in 130 miles.
Calvi was very nice. Our hotel was pretty good and we had a really good meal down by the harbour in view of the old Basilica and housing some very swanky yachts.
Saturday 21st June – Day 6 Calvi to Sta Teresa Gallura, Sardinia
We woke to the best view from a hotel bedroom so far looking out over the bay of Calvi.
The riding was great, but it was very hot and when we got to the harbour / ferry port at Bonaficio, Ade and I just stripped to our underpants and jumped into the sea to cool off. The sun dried us pretty quickly and we had time for a swift beer before departing.
The ferry crossing to Sta Teresa Gallura in Sardinia was pretty quick. It was the last of the day and Phil was taking too long to get away from the crew’s perspective so they started giving him some rather unhelpful “encouragement” to get off the ferry. Words were exchanged!
We had a short ride to our hotel. Parked the bikes on the street and after showering went into the lovely town for dinner.
Sunday June 22nd – Day 7 Sta Teresa Gallura to Tortoli
We were slightly delayed getting going and by 9:30 it was already 30degC. We slummed it for a late breakfast at a McDonald’s and then had a drinks only pit stop for lunch at Bosa.
Then a couple of hours later we went from 37degC to hail. We stopped very briefly but it looked like we were on the very edge of the storm, so we didn’t put our waterproofs on. That turned out to be a mistake as 15 minutes later we were absolutely drenched riding in torrential rain for about an hour. After a stop at a service station for a coffee, the rain had stopped and we were able to dry out somewhat on the final leg of our journey to Tortoli. The last couple of hours riding were absolutely fantastic.
Tortoli was buzzing. There was a fair and we had a fantastic all you can eat BBQ dinner with live music, at a place the hotel receptionist recommended. We got a discount too.
Monday June 23rd - Day 8 Tortoli, Sardinia to the overnight ferry from Cagliari
Our last day on Sardinia was the best. “Only 243 miles and 6 hours of riding” from Tortolì to Cagliari. Several sections of perfect tarmac snaking through fantastic scenery with bend after bend for hours at a time.
We took the overnight ferry back to mainland Italy, docking at Civitavecchia late tomorrow morning.
Tuesday June 24th - Day 9 Civitavecchia, Italy to San Marino
After docking at Civitavecchia late morning we had a bit of boring riding through the industrial outskirts of the town before stopping for a break and much needed drink at the beautiful town of Orvieto.
We then had some great riding for much of the run to Tavullia to pay homage to Valentino Rossi (and pick up some merch).
Finally, we headed to the achingly pretty San Marino, our home for the night. We missed the no vehicular entry sign and ended up riding up a very steep dead end at the highest old fortification in the city. After turning the bikes round, we then road right to the front door of the hotel, much to the displeasure of the manageress. Ade use his best diplomacy skills and she allowed us to drop our kit off before riding back up to the (free) parking.
We got some good photos before a surprisingly inexpensive dinner.
Wednesday June 25th - Day 10 San Marino to the Dolomites
While my compatriots got their beauty sleep, I got up early to get photo’s as the sun rose over the sea in the distance. The light was fantastic as the morning dawned and I was pleased with the results.
After a cracking breakfast at the hotel, Phil set off home via Modena and Milan Airport but we’ll see him again on Saturday at Assen.
When Ade and I left San Marino about 10:00 am it was already 35degC. The next few hours were a real slog. Flat dull scenery and heavy traffic on the roads provided scant distraction from the heat, but once we got to the foothills of the Dolomites our spirits were lifted exponentially.
Cortina is beautiful, but the traffic was bad. Once clear of Cortina the riding and the scenery was epic. We rode over several spectacular passes and through many pretty mountain towns arriving at our beautiful hotel in Utia de Borz just as the kitchen was closing.
They took pity on us and let us order dinner provided we did so straight away so even unloading the bikes had to wait. Dinner was excellent and the room extremely spacious. I was out like a light after yet another epic day.
Thursday June 26th - Day 11 Utia de Borz to Heidelberg, Germany
Delightful wake up alarm call from the cowbell’s of a small herds on the nearby hill and then after breakfast we left to ride some more fantastic passes in the Dolomites before crossing into Austria and riding up the Timmelsjoch where we had some lunch in the restaurant attached to the Motorcycle Museum (no time to look around).
The forecast as we left was not great so I put my waterproof top on. We rode through more of the Austrian Alps before hitting the boring main roads / motorways. The weather was getting worse so we stopped at a petrol station and put on our waterproof trousers to the accompaniment of thunder and lightning.
A little later the autobahn was completely closed due to an accident. Ade and I rode to the front of the queue. The weather had brightened so we took the opportunity to get out of our waterproofs. The delay was not too long and soon we were on our way to the Porsche museum at Stuttgart. The building is stunning, although the QS in me would’ve gone mad if it was a project I was on due to the elaborate design. The museum was closed but we were able to have a quick look around and take some photographs from the lobby.
We were then on our way to Heidelberg, our stop for the night Our hotel was apparently the oldest building in the town. After a brilliant regional meal in the pub next door to the hotel, we had a very quick walk around the town before retiring to bed absolutely whacked.
Friday June 27th - Day 12 Heidelberg to Groningen, Holland
After a very warm night in the hotel in Heidelberg with no a/c or fans, we got a pretty early get away. With 430 miles to cover it was mainly motorways today, but as we were passing reasonably close, it would have been rude not to call in to the Nürburgring for a quick pit stop and photos. The fantastic roads of the Eifel national park provided a welcome break from the tedium of the motorway despite the rain.
We also called into F.C. Moto in northern Germany, one of the biggest and best motorcycling apparel shops in Europe, for a browse round before getting back on the motorway to Groningen with just a slight detour off the Dutch motorways into Germany to avoid the savage petrol prices (2.16 Euros/ lt).
Our hotel for the next 2 nights was a sort of hostel with a very bohemian feel to it, slightly out of the town centre. Due to our late arrival, we had to go the sister hotel in town to check in and get the keys. We decided to get some food before heading for our rooms.
Groningen is a University town with a huge cycling culture. We had a nice meal and sampled some great locally brewed beers in the Folkingebrew pub. Tomorrow we go to the MotoGP in nearby Assen.
Saturday June 28th - Day 13 – Assen Moto GP Qualifying and Sprint Race.
After a nice breakfast in Groningen, Ade and I took the short ride to the Assen Circuit. The traffic management was good so getting into the circuit was pretty painless. Bike parking was brilliant - covered under solar panels. The atmosphere at the circuit was great, perhaps even better than usual because this year happens to be the centenary of the Dutch TT.
Qualifying was good. The noise of the MotoGP bikes was actually painful, in our seats. The roof over our heads and the pits opposite amplifying the deep roar of the engines, so ear plugs were needed.
Phil joined us just before the start of the MotoGP sprint race, which after an all action first lap was far from being a classic. Food and drink at the circuit puts the likes of Silverstone to shame in terms of price and quality. The male Dutch race goers certainly have a thing for knee length denim shorts!
After the race, getting out of the circuit took a while, with the traditional overheating Ducati stranded by the side of the exit road. We headed into the town of Assen which was throwing a huge party. We ate a decent dinner, had a few drinks and headed back to the hotel. After a couple of further drinks, my bed was certainly calling.
Tomorrow is the full race day.
Sunday June 29th - Day 14. Assen race day and the return home.
Ade took Phil pillion from Groningen to the circuit at Assen, so I took Ade's roll bag on my bike. The Dutch put in a ridiculous diversion which added at least 20 mins to our journey, so once parked up we had to rush to our seats to see the Moto 3 race.
The circuit was packed & the atmosphere brilliant. The racing was really good in all 3 classes. Phil stayed for the Moto GP podium & some of the supporting action before heading off to Amsterdam, where he was meeting a client the next day. Ade & I got away from the circuit surprisingly quickly, then it was a pretty boring 310-mile motorway dash to the Eurotunnel terminal in Calais.
We were amazed at the sight of thousands of Dutch families and couples parked in the services, laybys and standing on the footbridges over the motorway to wave to the departing race goers – this went on for something like 30 miles. Certainly not something you’ll see in the UK.
We had a couple of much needed stops for fuel, drinks & food and made good time so we were able to get an earlier crossing home.
There were only 6 bikes on the crossing. The train driver hit the brakes hard at one point. The bike at the back that was seriously loaded up with luggage, toppled over, causing a domino effect. My bike just about hit Ade's (in front of me) but with his help we just about got it stood up, despite the weight of the bike behind being on my bike. Once more or less vertical, Ade & a couple of others went to help the other bikers get their bikes upright. Miraculously there seemed to be no damage.
With just over 100 miles from Folkstone to home I was back by 23:20. My wife & Elsie (the black lab) were both pleased to see me as I was, them. After unloading the bike & chatting to Jane for a while over a glass of wine, it was time for a shower & then bed.
The tour was 4,033 miles for me door to door. It's been a fabulous experience. My new R1300GS was faultless & I absolutely love it. She can really get a wriggle on. We were not overtaken by a single biker & overtook several hundred other bikes, including a few full-on sports bike riders that had a go at staying ahead. We joked that KTM's strap line should be changed from "Ready to Race" to Ready to be overtaken by Brits on loaded up GS's.
Here's hoping next year’s trip will be as good, if a little cooler.
In June / July of 2024 I did my first proper European bike tour on an R1250 GS with the low chassis, low seat and a side stand with an extra lug on it to help get the bike off the stand.
I’m all of 5’ 3” “tall”, so I need all the help I can get. I had reconnected with my old friend Adrien Ong in 2022 (I think). I met some of his biking friends for the first time and Alan McKee who I’d met a long time before when he had his business at Silverstone. The 2024 French tour was with Al and Ade and I loved it. As a confirmed sports bike nut, I’d long poo pooed the GS, but that tour converted me.
I got my R1300GS (low seat + adaptive vehicle height control and another adapted side stand) on the 31st of March. Al decided not to do this tour, but another friend of both Ade and mine (albeit via separate situations) Phil Hobden was up for it, but couldn’t do the whole duration and doesn’t have a touring /adventure bike of his own, so arranged to fly out, hire a bike and join us a few days into the tour.
Ade has done lots of tours over several years and is great at route planning and sorting our accommodation.
The dates and the route started to get properly firmed up as the date neared. We had spoken about Eastern Europe but Ade suggested heading South and visiting Corsica and Sardinia which sounded great.
I was excited in the days before, checking & re-checking my packing list, determined not to take too much. We ride with just a tank bag, top box & roll bag to avoid having too much luggage to take into our hotel at the end of a long day.
As a precaution I got a new rear tire just before the off and my part used one is being kept for me to use up next.
Monday June 16th - Day 1 Home to Bouillon
I met with Ade at the last petrol before the Eurotunnel at Folkstone. As we drove through the car park enroute to the train, we passed dozens of Ford Mustangs. We parked up at the barrier behind a guy on a big Indian motorbike with leather tassels all over the shop.
Getting off the main roads straight away, we rode some surprising excellent D roads just South of Calais. As we rode through the Ardennes to Boullion the roads were excellent and the traffic light. The Hotel de la Poste was very nice. We had a very nice dinner, but no a/c in our room & a noisy fan was not great.
Tuesday June 17th - Day 2 Bouillon to Landhotel Lowen
Four countries today. Belgium, France, Luxembourg and Germany. We had breakfast of good coffee & croissants in the centre of Luxembourg City. The very heavy Police presence indicated there were some dignitaries arriving in the square we were sat in very soon. In fact, we just left before being moved on.
The riding through the Black Forest in particular was spectacularly good. We stopped off at the Black Forest tourist trap of Mummelsee for a break and refreshments.
344 miles and 7 hours 45 minutes of riding under clear blue skies.
Phil joined Ade and I for an excellent dinner at a couple of well-deserved beers at the Landhotel Lowen in Germany, having ridden up from Madrid on the 1300 GS he hired from Hertz.
Wednesday June 18th - Day 3 Landhotel Lowen to Oberalpass, Switzerland
After breakfast we rode towards Switzerland, passing the IWC factory just outside Scaffhausen. The traffic was a bit heavy getting to Lake Zurich, but once of the banks, the scenery was impressive. We had an absolute blast riding the Susten, Grimsel, Furka and Gottard Passes. The latter in both directions. Near and in the Furka pass, we kept seeing Singer Porsches and once parked up at the Hotel Belvedere, we looked down and saw one of the support vehicles. One of the cars had Montana plates. Looked like a very slick, very expensive event. Our hotel was at Oberalpass, above Andermatt in Switzerland. It was pretty nice and although the dinner was a fixed menu it was pretty good. The cost was certainly much less than in Andermatt itself.
Thursday June 19th - Day 4 Oberalpass to Genoa via the Stelvio Pass
It was a beautiful morning. Ade and I set off to ride the Stelvio Pass in Italy. Phil unfortunately had some work stuff to attend to, so would meet us in Genoa.
The riding towards the Stelvio was mostly excellent, but we got a bit held up getting through the town of Chur. Riding up to the Stelvio from the North was excellent, until one steep, uphill stretch where the road was being repaired & we were forced to ride on deep, loose gravel. Now tight U-turns aside, my least favourite manoeuvre is the very tight, steep uphill hairpin right and on one of those I ran a bit too wide on the loose gravel. The front wheel got stuck in rut & when I put my right foot down, it went into a depression in the road. I tried desperately for several seconds not to drop the bike, Ade said it sounded like I was giving birth over the intercom, but eventually, the bike went down on its right side. Several bikers who had been a little behind me, stopped to help me get the bike lifted up & I was soon on my way again. The damage was thankfully very minor, but I was hot & bothered. My mouth was completely dry and finding a reasonably level parking spot sat the top of the Stelvio was a challenge I was not in the mood for. But once parked up, with a bratwurst and a cold drink I started to feel much better.
The Stelvio had not long been open so it was very busy. Spectacular scenery, but far too much traffic for it to be really enjoyable. Ade wanted to turn round at the bottom and go up the main side again, but uphill had little appeal and I decided to take an alternative route to Genoa utilising the Autostradas.
Ade did go back up, but two bikes had a head on that afternoon causing big delays.
The first hour or so of my ride from the Stelvio was awful. Single carriageway main roads through towns and villages with loads of articulate lorries in very hot weather. It was a relief the get on the Autostrada, but it was a long, pretty boring slog south. Super big day for me at 454 miles, 9 hours 27 minutes of riding from the hotel this morning to Genova this evening.
Phil had arrived a bit earlier, Ade not much. I quickly showered and we went out for a good meal and several beers.
Friday June 20th Day 5 Genoe to Calvi, Corsica
The traffic was bad getting to the ferry in Genoa so we were late leaving, but we had a smooth crossing with perfect weather. Ade and I took in a few (too many) rays on deck while Phil sought the shade.
We docked in Bastia Corsica to glorious sunshine and after getting out of the ferry terminal using our best London commuting techniques we were soon on our way to the northern tip of Corsica. The roads there were quite narrow and bumpy but the scenery was good and there were millions of butterflies flying about. Very pretty, but not great for keeping visors or cameras lenses clean.
Once we got onto the coast road heading South to Calvi the riding was magical. Mile after mile of flowing bends with spectacular coastal scenery to our right. Something like 2000 bends in 130 miles.
Calvi was very nice. Our hotel was pretty good and we had a really good meal down by the harbour in view of the old Basilica and housing some very swanky yachts.
Saturday 21st June – Day 6 Calvi to Sta Teresa Gallura, Sardinia
We woke to the best view from a hotel bedroom so far looking out over the bay of Calvi.
The riding was great, but it was very hot and when we got to the harbour / ferry port at Bonaficio, Ade and I just stripped to our underpants and jumped into the sea to cool off. The sun dried us pretty quickly and we had time for a swift beer before departing.
The ferry crossing to Sta Teresa Gallura in Sardinia was pretty quick. It was the last of the day and Phil was taking too long to get away from the crew’s perspective so they started giving him some rather unhelpful “encouragement” to get off the ferry. Words were exchanged!
We had a short ride to our hotel. Parked the bikes on the street and after showering went into the lovely town for dinner.
Sunday June 22nd – Day 7 Sta Teresa Gallura to Tortoli
We were slightly delayed getting going and by 9:30 it was already 30degC. We slummed it for a late breakfast at a McDonald’s and then had a drinks only pit stop for lunch at Bosa.
Then a couple of hours later we went from 37degC to hail. We stopped very briefly but it looked like we were on the very edge of the storm, so we didn’t put our waterproofs on. That turned out to be a mistake as 15 minutes later we were absolutely drenched riding in torrential rain for about an hour. After a stop at a service station for a coffee, the rain had stopped and we were able to dry out somewhat on the final leg of our journey to Tortoli. The last couple of hours riding were absolutely fantastic.
Tortoli was buzzing. There was a fair and we had a fantastic all you can eat BBQ dinner with live music, at a place the hotel receptionist recommended. We got a discount too.
Monday June 23rd - Day 8 Tortoli, Sardinia to the overnight ferry from Cagliari
Our last day on Sardinia was the best. “Only 243 miles and 6 hours of riding” from Tortolì to Cagliari. Several sections of perfect tarmac snaking through fantastic scenery with bend after bend for hours at a time.
We took the overnight ferry back to mainland Italy, docking at Civitavecchia late tomorrow morning.
Tuesday June 24th - Day 9 Civitavecchia, Italy to San Marino
After docking at Civitavecchia late morning we had a bit of boring riding through the industrial outskirts of the town before stopping for a break and much needed drink at the beautiful town of Orvieto.
We then had some great riding for much of the run to Tavullia to pay homage to Valentino Rossi (and pick up some merch).
Finally, we headed to the achingly pretty San Marino, our home for the night. We missed the no vehicular entry sign and ended up riding up a very steep dead end at the highest old fortification in the city. After turning the bikes round, we then road right to the front door of the hotel, much to the displeasure of the manageress. Ade use his best diplomacy skills and she allowed us to drop our kit off before riding back up to the (free) parking.
We got some good photos before a surprisingly inexpensive dinner.
Wednesday June 25th - Day 10 San Marino to the Dolomites
While my compatriots got their beauty sleep, I got up early to get photo’s as the sun rose over the sea in the distance. The light was fantastic as the morning dawned and I was pleased with the results.
After a cracking breakfast at the hotel, Phil set off home via Modena and Milan Airport but we’ll see him again on Saturday at Assen.
When Ade and I left San Marino about 10:00 am it was already 35degC. The next few hours were a real slog. Flat dull scenery and heavy traffic on the roads provided scant distraction from the heat, but once we got to the foothills of the Dolomites our spirits were lifted exponentially.
Cortina is beautiful, but the traffic was bad. Once clear of Cortina the riding and the scenery was epic. We rode over several spectacular passes and through many pretty mountain towns arriving at our beautiful hotel in Utia de Borz just as the kitchen was closing.
They took pity on us and let us order dinner provided we did so straight away so even unloading the bikes had to wait. Dinner was excellent and the room extremely spacious. I was out like a light after yet another epic day.
Thursday June 26th - Day 11 Utia de Borz to Heidelberg, Germany
Delightful wake up alarm call from the cowbell’s of a small herds on the nearby hill and then after breakfast we left to ride some more fantastic passes in the Dolomites before crossing into Austria and riding up the Timmelsjoch where we had some lunch in the restaurant attached to the Motorcycle Museum (no time to look around).
The forecast as we left was not great so I put my waterproof top on. We rode through more of the Austrian Alps before hitting the boring main roads / motorways. The weather was getting worse so we stopped at a petrol station and put on our waterproof trousers to the accompaniment of thunder and lightning.
A little later the autobahn was completely closed due to an accident. Ade and I rode to the front of the queue. The weather had brightened so we took the opportunity to get out of our waterproofs. The delay was not too long and soon we were on our way to the Porsche museum at Stuttgart. The building is stunning, although the QS in me would’ve gone mad if it was a project I was on due to the elaborate design. The museum was closed but we were able to have a quick look around and take some photographs from the lobby.
We were then on our way to Heidelberg, our stop for the night Our hotel was apparently the oldest building in the town. After a brilliant regional meal in the pub next door to the hotel, we had a very quick walk around the town before retiring to bed absolutely whacked.
Friday June 27th - Day 12 Heidelberg to Groningen, Holland
After a very warm night in the hotel in Heidelberg with no a/c or fans, we got a pretty early get away. With 430 miles to cover it was mainly motorways today, but as we were passing reasonably close, it would have been rude not to call in to the Nürburgring for a quick pit stop and photos. The fantastic roads of the Eifel national park provided a welcome break from the tedium of the motorway despite the rain.
We also called into F.C. Moto in northern Germany, one of the biggest and best motorcycling apparel shops in Europe, for a browse round before getting back on the motorway to Groningen with just a slight detour off the Dutch motorways into Germany to avoid the savage petrol prices (2.16 Euros/ lt).
Our hotel for the next 2 nights was a sort of hostel with a very bohemian feel to it, slightly out of the town centre. Due to our late arrival, we had to go the sister hotel in town to check in and get the keys. We decided to get some food before heading for our rooms.
Groningen is a University town with a huge cycling culture. We had a nice meal and sampled some great locally brewed beers in the Folkingebrew pub. Tomorrow we go to the MotoGP in nearby Assen.
Saturday June 28th - Day 13 – Assen Moto GP Qualifying and Sprint Race.
After a nice breakfast in Groningen, Ade and I took the short ride to the Assen Circuit. The traffic management was good so getting into the circuit was pretty painless. Bike parking was brilliant - covered under solar panels. The atmosphere at the circuit was great, perhaps even better than usual because this year happens to be the centenary of the Dutch TT.
Qualifying was good. The noise of the MotoGP bikes was actually painful, in our seats. The roof over our heads and the pits opposite amplifying the deep roar of the engines, so ear plugs were needed.
Phil joined us just before the start of the MotoGP sprint race, which after an all action first lap was far from being a classic. Food and drink at the circuit puts the likes of Silverstone to shame in terms of price and quality. The male Dutch race goers certainly have a thing for knee length denim shorts!
After the race, getting out of the circuit took a while, with the traditional overheating Ducati stranded by the side of the exit road. We headed into the town of Assen which was throwing a huge party. We ate a decent dinner, had a few drinks and headed back to the hotel. After a couple of further drinks, my bed was certainly calling.
Tomorrow is the full race day.
Sunday June 29th - Day 14. Assen race day and the return home.
Ade took Phil pillion from Groningen to the circuit at Assen, so I took Ade's roll bag on my bike. The Dutch put in a ridiculous diversion which added at least 20 mins to our journey, so once parked up we had to rush to our seats to see the Moto 3 race.
The circuit was packed & the atmosphere brilliant. The racing was really good in all 3 classes. Phil stayed for the Moto GP podium & some of the supporting action before heading off to Amsterdam, where he was meeting a client the next day. Ade & I got away from the circuit surprisingly quickly, then it was a pretty boring 310-mile motorway dash to the Eurotunnel terminal in Calais.
We were amazed at the sight of thousands of Dutch families and couples parked in the services, laybys and standing on the footbridges over the motorway to wave to the departing race goers – this went on for something like 30 miles. Certainly not something you’ll see in the UK.
We had a couple of much needed stops for fuel, drinks & food and made good time so we were able to get an earlier crossing home.
There were only 6 bikes on the crossing. The train driver hit the brakes hard at one point. The bike at the back that was seriously loaded up with luggage, toppled over, causing a domino effect. My bike just about hit Ade's (in front of me) but with his help we just about got it stood up, despite the weight of the bike behind being on my bike. Once more or less vertical, Ade & a couple of others went to help the other bikers get their bikes upright. Miraculously there seemed to be no damage.
With just over 100 miles from Folkstone to home I was back by 23:20. My wife & Elsie (the black lab) were both pleased to see me as I was, them. After unloading the bike & chatting to Jane for a while over a glass of wine, it was time for a shower & then bed.
The tour was 4,033 miles for me door to door. It's been a fabulous experience. My new R1300GS was faultless & I absolutely love it. She can really get a wriggle on. We were not overtaken by a single biker & overtook several hundred other bikes, including a few full-on sports bike riders that had a go at staying ahead. We joked that KTM's strap line should be changed from "Ready to Race" to Ready to be overtaken by Brits on loaded up GS's.
Here's hoping next year’s trip will be as good, if a little cooler.
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