Exhaust nut type and size

X21ekx

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Does anyone know the size of these nuts and what type of socket I'll be needing?
Oh and will I need a new gasket if there even is one?
Cheers in advance
Oh sorry it's on my 15plate GSA
 
It is "fucked" size and requires a nut extractor to remove. Personally, I'd carefully spit the nut and remove that way, otherwise you can snap the stud too. As I found out to my cost.

I now use 'old styled' domed nuts from the Honda 750 sohc as they protect better in my view.

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One of the multi slotted type sockets, not the hex design, found in more durable socket sets. If all else fails ask your dealer to show you their tool set with which they remove the exhaust headers. The gasket should be ok but you can if you want replace it.
 
It is "fucked" size and requires a nut extractor to remove. Personally, I'd carefully spit the nut and remove that way, otherwise you can snap the stud too. As I found out to my cost.

I now use 'old styled' domed nuts from the Honda 750 sohc as they protect better in my view.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

wtf you on about thats how they are?
 
Yes; it is an external torx; which I have found, like the earlier ones, is excellent at either rounding off or snapping the stud, normally just below the surface.

Suitable answer for you ???

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It's a standard bi-hex socket, preferably a good one or the corners will round off, may I suggest a Snapon Flank drive socket.
 
Did my headers a few weeks ago. Need to use a bi-hex 13mm socket. Careful on tightening them up...28Nm in a progressive diagonal manner. You cannot re-use the gaskets, so get a new pair from dealer.
 
You can reuse the gaskets. Changed exhausts on 3 different bikes, no problems with gaskets or nuts, even an early one with 20,000 mls.
 
Use copperslip on the threads when reassembling to aid future removal. Alternatively use brass nuts.

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You can reuse the gaskets. Changed exhausts on 3 different bikes, no problems with gaskets or nuts, even an early one with 20,000 mls.

BMW workshop manual states to replace
 
Use copperslip on the threads when reassembling to aid future removal. Alternatively use brass nuts.

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk
The nuts are made from what looks to be a copper alloy and don't seem to show signs of corrosion.
 
BMW workshop manual states to replace

They would say that, wouldn't they.

There is a lot of profit in small bits like gaskets, 'O' rings etc. cost fractions of a penny to make and sell for pounds. If its still in one piece re-use, if it falls apart replace.
 
The nuts are made from what looks to be a copper alloy and don't seem to show signs of corrosion.
Perfect. Must be the only part of the engine which doesn't corrode if you read the other horror stories on this forum.

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As mentioned 13 mm bi hex socket 3/8 or 1/4 drive on a wobble extension
They are copper coated steel to prevent corrosion, not expensive to replace,
Compared to snapping a stud with a siezed rusty nut,
I did use coppaslip they are metal shim gaskets , ideally use a torque wrench,
Roamer
 
Yes; it is an external torx; which I have found, like the earlier ones, is excellent at either rounding off or snapping the stud, normally just below the surface.

Suitable answer for you ???

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er no because it is not an external torx is it ?,as has been metioned in other replies its a bi hex,are the facts a good enough answer for you?:D
 
Strangely; bmw classify it as a torx not a bi-hex. Still like them, what do I know.

Perhaps, next time I am in Motorrad, I should advise them of your facts.

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They would say that, wouldn't they.

There is a lot of profit in small bits like gaskets, 'O' rings etc. cost fractions of a penny to make and sell for pounds. If its still in one piece re-use, if it falls apart replace.

BMW don't always say replace....e.g. valve cover gaskets, FD oil ring etc state inspect and replace if show signs of wear. The exhaust gasket is a one time use as composed of 2 flat sheets that are designed to crush once and seal.

Here are the instructions. You probably need to remove the lower crashbars as most sockets can't get in the gap to the manifold nuts between the crashbars.

Exhaust%20manifold1.jpg
 
Use copperslip on the threads when reassembling to aid future removal. Alternatively use brass nuts.

Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

Pointless using copperslip on exhausts ports, it burns off. :D

Nickel anti seize paste is better.
 
Perfect. Must be the only part of the engine which doesn't corrode if you read the other horror stories on this forum.

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They are copper and softer than SS bolts so be careful to use the right socket and don't over tighten
 


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