Exhaust removal

[PW Cymru]

Can anybody recommend a reasonably strong header pipe removal tool.

I soaked them in WD for a while but will need to remove them shortly.

Ta very glad

 

[Robbo1200ADV]

Do you mean the Header Nuts? Heat them up first or penetrating fluid overnight .

 

[Kenny]

WD40 is no good...try Plus Gas penetrating oil..then with the correct spanner ( and small extension bar )....pour boiling water over the header nuts and then try to shift them. Repeat above with longer soaking

Tool easily obtained from Sherlocks/Motorworks/Motorbins etc

Last resort is to chisel them off !!

 

[lurcher]

If it is actualy the header pipe that needs removing I have had some that no amount of coersion will remove. Heating, plus gas, 24 hour soaking all help but I have had some that will not come out without sawing off and dremeling the stub. Stainless pipes are the worst and the corrosion between the pipe and the head seems to be able to block any amount of penetrating fluid. It is rare to be completly stumpped but it does happen.

 

[BillN]

Rose Nuts
If your problem is the rose nut(s) that secure the downpipes to the head(s) do not use too much force as you may, (will), end up stripping the threads on the alloy head.

You need to buy the correct spanner from Motorbins etc.

With the correct spanner move it a LITTLE left, (to undo) and then right, (to re-tighten), (you can tap it lightly with a hammer), and see what happens - if it moves follow this left and right procedure until it becomes free - If it does not un-tighten freely use a hacksaw blade or similar to cut groves, (two) into the nut so that you can carefully chisel the nut off or get to a stage where the spanner will take the nut off, (using the undo/re-tighten a little procedure). Then buy two new nuts and coat the threads with high temperature grease, (after cleaning the threads with a small copper wire brush) and tighten carefully until almost tight. Then start the engine and tighten until there is no “blowing” – that is as tight as they need to be.
Remove them once a year and re grease.

Downpipes stuck in the heads
If this is the problem, undo, (loosen), ALL fittings in the exhaust system, both sides. Then use a lump of wood to cushion the blow when you hit the curve on the downpipe forward to knock the pipe out of the head. It will not come first time but keep trying and eventually you will move it.
It is not usual that they stick……I have found this on a number of occasions – a sharpe knock is what is needed, but ALL the exhaust fittings need to be loose.

 

[John Armstrong]

Downpipes stuck in the heads

It is not usual that they stick……I have found this on a number of occasions – a sharpe knock is what is needed, but ALL the exhaust fittings need to be loose.

Bet if you forgot to put the finned nuts on the pipes would come out the first time you fired up the bike

 

[BillN]

Bet if you forgot to put the finned nuts on the pipes would come out the first time you fired up the bike

?Obviously the rose nuts need to be off before you try to remove the downpipes?

What happens is that they form a "seal" that needs to be broken with a sharpe blow

As has been said do not use WD40 on surfaces that are likely to get (very) hot....once evaporated it leaves a residue which (can), only worsen the problem

 

[MikeP]

De-icer is as good as or better than Plus-Gas.

Damn sight cheaper too.

I've used the wooden block and mallet system before to remove the header pipes. The only thing I'd add is that it's not a bad idea to re-thread the exhaust roses just a turn or two if you have anything breakable in a line with the headers.

 

[PW Cymru]

Thanks gents,

Its removing the rose nuts and a good quality "C" spanner I was interested in.

If the motobins or motorwaorks are good then i'll try them.

Just didn't want to buy a chocolate spanner.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Don't worry about "chocolate" spanner, if in doubt, cold chisel and split the bastards.
There £9 each against a head stub rethread of at least £75 a side .

 

[Rob Farmer]

Oi!! Haven't you flounced off never to return?

 

[(RIP) Proff]

just took a break Rob, you know how it is.

 

[abrasion]

Motorworks now sell a spanner designed to break if under too much stress. The spanner will break before the threads strip. Be careful using the block of wood system, moterworks tell me they have a known quite a few cylider heads where the stub has broken off te head before the pipe has come loose

 

[PW Cymru]

Don't worry about "chocolate" spanner, if in doubt, cold chisel and split the bastards.
There £9 each against a head stub rethread of at least £75 a side .

Welcome home

 

[Steptoe]

Then use a lump of wood to cushion the blow when you hit the curve on the downpipe forward to knock the pipe out of the head. It will not come first time but keep trying and eventually you will move it.
.

Wood, New boys, what do they know . If you have an exhaust spanner you have the factory tool for the job - Use the exhaust nut spanner inner, put it into the curve and give it a clump. That's part of the use it was made for, not just undoing the nuts. Wood

Don't worry about "chocolate" spanner, if in doubt, cold chisel and split the bastards.
There £9 each against a head stub rethread of at least £75 a side .

A boy from the old school who knows the real way to do it

 

[(RIP) Proff]

A boy from the old school who knows the real way to do it [/QUOTE]


Thank you Obi wan

 

[DrFarkoff]

If the nuts are really stuck? Even after soaking and heating Do NOT ise excessive force cos it'll rip all the trheqads off like folks have said better to drill a couple of wee holes across the threaded bit of the nuts and then use a sharp chisel;that will make them split easier!

Being Too heavy handed with the chisel could cause as much damage as forcing the corroded on nuts off

 

[John Armstrong]

Used the motorworks supplied spanner on both my exhaust nuts with no problem But the previous owner had nicley lubed up the threads the last time they put them back on

Thunder had a link and posted a piccy of someone in the US of A who machines a nice small toolkit sized one. Not sure why you'd need it out on the road though

 

[Steptoe]

If the nuts are really stuck? Even after soaking and heating Do NOT ise excessive force cos it'll rip all the trheqads off like folks have said better to drill a couple of wee holes across the threaded bit of the nuts and then use a sharp chisel;that will make them split easier!

Being Too heavy handed with the chisel could cause as much damage as forcing the corroded on nuts off

Absolutly no need to drill at all. Two/three hits with a sharp chisel then use the tool and the nuts open up and spin off. I'm not suggesting chiselling through the nut to the threads, there is no need to.

Doing it this way you WILL NOT damage the thread and you'll have the job done nice and cleanly in 30 seconds.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I'm not gonna start an argument about nut splittin (Ooo Err Matron)

Cos it ain't worth it! Cos You got your ways and I got mine,

Also you have been doing it for a long time and know exactly how much you can get away with but there are quite a few uninitiated out there

In my lowly opinion 3 or more small holes (2mm) from front to rear across the threads allows the nut to split easier and reduces the risk of swingin a lump hammer near yer pride and joy!