EZcan - space??!!

Slipperyeel

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For better or worse, I decided to get an EZcan. Partly because it was on offer. But also because the old PDM60 is such a pain to alter settings (the new version, now called Amplink, is stupidly expensive!).

Anyway, I now have the seat tail all uncovered. Alarm batteries replaced as well (got another fob problem now - different post!).

Either I'm losing it or the lead from the alarm unit to the EZcan unit is too short. That or my expectations are too high.

Anyone else fitted one of these? Interested in what you've done. Pic below to help illustrate the problem.

I have three options:

a) return it and do something else.
b) lengthen that 'long' length myself (warranty out the window)
c) I get radical and cut into the mudguard, scan/design/print a cubby hole to accommodate this unit and it's cables - will need to calculate exactly how much spare clearance there is for the wheel though...another thing to work out

Thoughts and ideas welcome!

85047596cbf771ab46e8b73c2434e02f.jpg


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Really?
Just jam the thing under the passenger set and forget about it.
 
I can help here

2016 LC Ezcan has a way longer power lead, and relocates under the rear seat area (y)

2011 Hexhead Ezcan has an incredibly short power lead, and wont fit under the rear seat

Luckily my first LC Ezcan unit was faulty so i was able to keep it once all the leads had been cut off

So i spliced the longer power leads from the original faulty onto the Hexhead version, which allowed me to relocate it under the rear seat area

Yes my warranty is technically invalidated, but all i did was cut the battery connectors off and splice in a longer length of cable

Edit - i raised it with Ezcan, who just said the power lead was long enough, and it goes in the tray under the seat, (except i had the tool tray and power supply for the innov in there)
 
Really?
Just jam the thing under the passenger set and forget about it.
I like your thinking . But...

There's limited space. I hate seeing, let alone dealing with , a fkng rats nest of wires. To programme the EZcan you need access to one end of it, to plug in the USB cable. I have a U-lock stashed in there too, for those moments I'm caught short on the usual security...

In short, it's not quite as easy as I thought it was going to be

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I can help here

2016 LC Ezcan has a way longer power lead, and relocates under the rear seat area (y)

2011 Hexhead Ezcan has an incredibly short power lead, and wont fit under the rear seat

Luckily my first LC Ezcan unit was faulty so i was able to keep it once all the leads had been cut off

So i spliced the longer power leads from the original faulty onto the Hexhead version, which allowed me to relocate it under the rear seat area

Yes my warranty is technically invalidated, but all i did was cut the battery connectors off and splice in a longer length of cable

Edit - i raised it with Ezcan, who just said the power lead was long enough, and it goes in the tray under the seat, (except i had the tool tray and power supply for the innov in there)
Your last paragraph.... exactly that. Useful to know it's not just me!

There's a big squidge of Innov wires stashed in under the tray and partly into that 'relief' box I printed. The blue part you can see is a false bottom as the tray has been heavily reconfigured.

So even if I ignore the short cable length, I have no room in the usual seat tray.

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I feel a plan forming...

1. Lengthen the leads, a lot.
2. Rehouse it all in the frame gap, just in behind the rear brake reservoir. I'll model and print a custom 'box' to put it all in.

But thanks Santa. You're feedback about lengthening the cables has given me reassurance

On a side note, the rain in doing all this is because at the same time I'm doing a DIY heated seat. I want the writing and switch to be neat, tidy and trustworthy! Tested the seat and it seems like it'll be really good . But of again in 10 days so now in bit of a hurry!

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For better or worse, I decided to get an EZcan. Partly because it was on offer. But also because the old PDM60 is such a pain to alter settings (the new version, now called Amplink, is stupidly expensive!).

Anyway, I now have the seat tail all uncovered. Alarm batteries replaced as well (got another fob problem now - different post!).

Either I'm losing it or the lead from the alarm unit to the EZcan unit is too short. That or my expectations are too high.

Anyone else fitted one of these? Interested in what you've done. Pic below to help illustrate the problem.

I have three options:

a) return it and do something else.
b) lengthen that 'long' length myself (warranty out the window)
c) I get radical and cut into the mudguard, scan/design/print a cubby hole to accommodate this unit and it's cables - will need to calculate exactly how much spare clearance there is for the wheel though...another thing to work out

Thoughts and ideas welcome!

85047596cbf771ab46e8b73c2434e02f.jpg


Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk
Hi Slipperyell,
Yes installation of the EZcan in not as straight forward as expected.

I am not sure what model of GS you have, but please find below a couple of photos taken of the installation I did on my 2012 BMW GS twin cam (K25) My bike, unlike yours does not have the alarm system fitted but does have the TPMS in the same location where the EZcan plugs into.

Power cable to the battery was just long enough for my installation and the system work well to power my two front auxiliary lights on two of the outputs to provide LH & RH light control when the indicators are on.
I hope the photos are useful to you
ezCAN.jpgezCAN1.jpg
 
Hi Slipperyell,
Yes installation of the EZcan in not as straight forward as expected.

I am not sure what model of GS you have, but please find below a couple of photos taken of the installation I did on my 2012 BMW GS twin cam (K25) My bike, unlike yours does not have the alarm system fitted but does have the TPMS in the same location where the EZcan plugs into.

Power cable to the battery was just long enough for my installation and the system work well to power my two front auxiliary lights on two of the outputs to provide LH & RH light control when the indicators are on.
I hope the photos are useful to you
View attachment 456241View attachment 456242
Almost exactly what I've 👍
 
Hi Slipperyell,
Yes installation of the EZcan in not as straight forward as expected.

I am not sure what model of GS you have, but please find below a couple of photos taken of the installation I did on my 2012 BMW GS twin cam (K25) My bike, unlike yours does not have the alarm system fitted but does have the TPMS in the same location where the EZcan plugs into.

Power cable to the battery was just long enough for my installation and the system work well to power my two front auxiliary lights on two of the outputs to provide LH & RH light control when the indicators are on.
I hope the photos are useful to you
View attachment 456241View attachment 456242
Thanks for this. Interesting and helpful All looks neat.
My only grumble is that the way you have it presumes you/one is ready with your accessories and can plug them in straight away. I had the idea to leave the 'empty' unused plugs accessable so I can add/disconnect as needed - without having to remove that plastic cover.

Oh, I have the adventure, with the top box mount and pannier frames (no need for the latter to come off). Which really adds to the performance of accessing under that plastic cover.

But your set up has given me an idea... So thank you

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Just a tip, if you end up tucking it away under the plastic cover please leave a usb lead plugged into it because you will need to perform the occasional software update.
 
Just a tip, if you end up tucking it away under the plastic cover please leave a usb lead plugged into it because you will need to perform the occasional software update.
Mine hangs out just under the seat bar, so i can do a reset / code change at any time. Good idea plugging in a USB lead, saves hunting for the rubber cap that goes missing ;)
 
Just a tip, if you end up tucking it away under the plastic cover please leave a usb lead plugged into it because you will need to perform the occasional software update.
That is a damned good idea! Thanks!

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Mine hangs out just under the seat bar, so i can do a reset / code change at any time. Good idea plugging in a USB lead, saves hunting for the rubber cap that goes missing ;)
I wondered about this of course, but I them wondered if it would foul the seat clicking into place (obviously not!).

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Here is my Ezcan on the TC,

I made a mistake, its over the seat bar, not under (although the cables are under the seat bar)

PXL_20251102_142813556.jpg
 
I have 2 ezcans fitted to my 2013 Adventure and I had the same problem. I ran them both down the exhaust side of the bike and fitted them along the seat bar but with the usb socket on the brake side. I have a sidecar fitted so no real access to the exhaust side.
Not with the bike so unable to take photos

I do agree the leads could be longer, it’s a shame they don’t sell extension cables.


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Here is my Ezcan on the TC,

I made a mistake, its over the seat bar, not under (although the cables are under the seat bar)

View attachment 456379
Thanks Santa. Again, this is useful.

Looking at your pic, I think I can see part of my problem. I have the U-lock stashed under the seat in its purpose made 'holder' along with the locking bar/block in the last remaining spacer in the seat tray. The U-lock did seem to get in the way, but I'm not prepared to dump it as I do use it...

I really like the continuity of the EZcan...but a slightly more generous lead length would have been handy!

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Update:
EZcan returned . Turnabout followed.

Already had the PDM60, but was looking for the added functionality of the EZcan...but in the interested of getting sorted, I reverted.

The main issue with the EZcan was having to lengthen cables. I wasn't wild about that. The PDM60 is a bit old school now, but it does give more freedom. Anyway, below are some pics of my radical 'solution'. A lot of thought went into this than maybe it looks, albeit at an accelerated pace! Not a rabbit hole I was looking for, but it's adjustable, short of cutting the hole, I can modify a lot from here onwards if needed. There's quite a lot of wasted space under that seat cowl... PDM cover plate is abs/carbon (first shot with silver abs was just a fitment test).

I consolidated the wires out of the PDM60 with a 6 way Deutsch plug (because it's weather tight and just so easy to switch/add wires, whenever).

Oh. I've used the tail light feed as the trigger wire. On my 2011 adventure, it was the red/gray wire (not the brown or gray/black). See pic. I know this is a common question - 'which wire'. To be honest, get the multimeter out to be sure.

Oh, the thickness of the material in that seat cowl is about 5mm in the top face. And it's bit of a bugger to cut! I ended up using the electric file and hand files...
fa320df6a8aa8a68351aaa6f5b5e8775.jpg
9d44840c11802a5a0c463f93e3f25dc6.jpg
7d83dde1bf25231e189d57a8c1b6ccd7.jpg
c4c38e8ab6b9da42c2384d3a7d953ca4.jpg
0532ae197af73550c174940378af7481.jpg


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Last edited:
tidy install
Thanks. It is definitely more organised. I like that it's all reachable - not that access is needed all the time, I can reach the socket/contacts in the back of the PDM to change the settings easily.

Side note - the wires out of the PDM60 are horrible and rigid. Have replaced several with silicone sheathed wires, which is bit of a game changer in the space available!

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