Fasteners Stainless

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dogfooddave

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My GS1150 is suffering badly from rust and wear and tear though only a 2001 machine. Im thinking of fitting stainless fittings to it in an effort at rust prevention. Looking to find out who supplies these parts and at what cost.
Thank you
 
A4 grade stainless is a more suitable grade than A2,although it does cost a bit more.
Make sure you ask a supplier you haven't dealt with before what grade he uses.
There's bound to be an engineer on here who can give you more detailed information.
 
dogfooddave said:
My GS1150 is suffering badly from rust and wear and tear though only a 2001 machine. Im thinking of fitting stainless fittings to it in an effort at rust prevention. Looking to find out who supplies these parts and at what cost.
Thank you

Steptoe does kits all labelled up in little bags.. lightning fast delivery too!

:beerjug:
 
Le singe said:
A4 grade stainless is a more suitable grade than A2,although it does cost a bit more.
Make sure you ask a supplier you haven't dealt with before what grade he uses.
There's bound to be an engineer on here who can give you more detailed information.

A2 grade is good for everything except high stress situations such as caliper & shock mounts. If you just want to replace the crappy shallow Torx fittings with stainless capheads, A2 is fine.

Just remember that if screwing stainless in to aluminium, you need to lubricate the threads with CopperSlip or similar.

Anyone know of a higher grade than A4 that's easily available? Is A4 okay for shock & caliper mounts?
 
according to the mechanics at motorrad, copperslip is not the best thing to be using.
they use and recommend that I get some aluminium grease (or the alu equivalent or copperslip) - you know me, not technical and usually not listening properly.
 
I used A2 even for calipers, 2 years ago, everything OK so far....Did some research and found out that the yeld strenght of the A2 was lower then 8.6 but not too much...
 
Agreed,for the low stress applications,A2 won't give a problem.
I buy my fasteners from Apex in England,as a price example, 100 off M6 x 25 allen screws, about £2:00, A4 grade is around double, the difference is 2p per fastener so I usually specify A4 as a matter of course.
For lubrication,I normally use WD40 when changing casing screws,without any problem. I get concerned that Copaslip could affect the torque setting too much.
 
A4 costs pennies more -

A4 is spec'd for marine use, A2 does fine in the normal world -

I do the whole kit to fit the 1150GS for £34 , if it was A4 would cost around £38 - £40 a set

;)
 
The tensile strength of an A4 is about the same as a mild steel fastener marked '8.8'.
A2 ,from memory is only about 2/3 of A4.
As the cost difference is so small,is it worth specifying the lower grade?
:confused:
 
Le singe said:
The tensile strength of an A4 is about the same as a mild steel fastener marked '8.8'.
A2 ,from memory is only about 2/3 of A4.
As the cost difference is so small,is it worth specifying the lower grade?
:confused:

i just told the stainless manufacture/supplier what they were to be used for , he said A2 will be fine - 20 years of use on all my bikes and selling kits, without any problems so far .

;)
 
I'm beginning to think I worry too much!
My info came from a friend in England who used to restore British bikes,he was a time-served,(remember them?),engineer.
He used to give me lectures on how you must always use 316 rather than 303 to make spindles,etc.
I'm going to blame him for making me paranoid!(About engineering standards,that is).
The rest I blame on the voices:D
 
Le singe said:

He used to give me lectures on how you must always use 316 rather than 303 to make spindles,etc.

spindles and shafts are a different kettle of fish altogether -

I've never used those :eek:
 
One of his BSA's had a rigid rear end with a 1/2" diameter spindle which he re-made in stainless, I remember him explaining that it was impossible to apply a force greater than the sheer strength of the stainless to the wheel spindle as less than half the required force would have the back wheel of the bike skyward!
He never had a problem, but I never rode the bike either:D
 
** Stepping onto hobby-horse**

The designation A2/A4 is actually only part of the designation of a fastener. The important bit, in terms of strength is the second part, which is often left off. A "proper" code would be something like A2/50 or A4/80.
50 is lowest strength 80 is highest. They are in Newton/MM squared and the numbers represent 1/10 of their strength.

A2/80 is 304 (18/8) stainless with a tensile of 800 N/mm2

A4 is not a "better" grade than A2, it's just different and has different chemical properties. A4 is a 316 material, A2 is 304 type. 316 having added Molybdenum content which is good for corrosion resistance against certain substances such as chlorides. Hence the use in marine environments.

8.8 marked bolts have tensile of 800ish N/mm2
10.9 = 1040ish
12.0 = 1270ish

**stepping off hobby-horse **

Hope that helps y'all out...
:D

All explained here.. http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_2.htm by someone more edumacated than me, except'n he got his 302 and 304 mixed up.....:D
 
Interesting stuff,my A4's are also 80's.
The 316 is also 'springier' than the 304, it can be bent slightly without permanent distortion,whereas the 304 will stay bent.
Obviously the application decides the grade.
 
Le singe said:
Interesting stuff,my A4's are also 80's.
The 316 is also 'springier' than the 304, it can be bent slightly without permanent distortion,whereas the 304 will stay bent.
Obviously the application decides the grade.

....cobblers.:D
 


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