Faster Faster

On my Guzzi I carried out the 'standard' mod of removing the airbox (which was about the size of my garden shed) and fitting individual K&N 'pod' air filters. Has anyone tried this on a GS? Seems to me that if I'm going to be making large holes in the air box there's not a whole lot of point in it being there at all! Presumably I'd just have to set up a mounting bracket for the air temperature sensor and do something with the crankcase breather.
 
sproggy said:
On my Guzzi I carried out the 'standard' mod of removing the airbox (which was about the size of my garden shed) and fitting individual K&N 'pod' air filters. Has anyone tried this on a GS? Seems to me that if I'm going to be making large holes in the air box there's not a whole lot of point in it being there at all! Presumably I'd just have to set up a mounting bracket for the air temperature sensor and do something with the crankcase breather.

I have, not worth it (altought I haven't tried it yet with the BBchip on).
What I noticed was an irritating lack of torque below 4000rpm.
I think the airbox is a good thing for the road.
 
ag1s said:
I have, not worth it (altought I haven't tried it yet with the BBchip on).
What I noticed was an irritating lack of torque below 4000rpm.
I think the airbox is a good thing for the road.

however, what I haven't tried either is to use the inlet tubes together with the clamp-on filters. I'm sure they would improve low end torque.
 
sproggy said:
On my Guzzi I carried out the 'standard' mod of removing the airbox (which was about the size of my garden shed) and fitting individual K&N 'pod' air filters. Has anyone tried this on a GS? Seems to me that if I'm going to be making large holes in the air box there's not a whole lot of point in it being there at all! Presumably I'd just have to set up a mounting bracket for the air temperature sensor and do something with the crankcase breather.

the hole will be before the air-filter, not after!!!!
Thus you still have a filtered ready supply of few liters of air.
 
Sproggy, you've got to remember that all these mods are only able to, hopefully, fine tune the standard engine unit.
You're not suddenly going to find a simple modification that releases an extra 10bhp.
If you're serious about getting more power,start with the heads,etc, themselves.
The best mods I made were to fit the RS cams and pistons, removed the coding plug,re-set the TPS and cut the hole in the airbox. Probably about £300 worth.
The difference is noticeable,especially at higher rpm,(above 4.5-5K rpm).
But now it's time to look at the ports and valves.... :D
The long carbonfibre inlet snorkel is a real scam. The effective induction length is from the valves to the airbox on this engine, the airbox itself acts as a plenum chamber therefore negating any mods to the snorkel other than those that ensure it isn't too small and therefore restrictive.
 
Le singe said:
Sproggy, you've got to remember that all these mods are only able to, hopefully, fine tune the standard engine unit.

I know - as I said somewhere (or maybe I just thought it....) I'm trying to maximise the efficiency of the engine without needing to delve inside it - as long as it's running perfectly well I don't want to open it up but come such time as it needs a rebuild that's when I might start changing pistons, heads etc.

So accepting the restrictions of the standard valves, compression ratio etc I'm aiming to help the engine breath as well as possible by removing restrictions - inlet tubes, air filter, snorkel, cat, standard can, etc - and adjusting the fuelling to suit, again within the constraints of the fairly basic injection system.

Seems to me removing the snorkel altogether might be just as good - using some coarse mesh over the hole in the airbox where it usually fits.
 
It looks really messy without it!
I've cut the hole on the RHS of the airbox behind the long, removeable plastic cover. This means that when parked in the rain or when washing the bike,water can't run into the airbox.
The hole is triangular,I drilled 3 holes about 20mm diameter,then cut between them.
 
Dave if ya need frt wheel maching ,mick my mate across road got his klr crank sorted by guy in brighouse for a good price.I,ll try to get you his p/no.
 


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