Bendy toy
Registered user
Much like mine was. If your axle tube is rusting clean it up with a Dremmel or die grinder and get Mikey to have it grit blasted & powder coated before he does the rebuild.
FD leak again?
- Thread starter comberjohn
- Start date
comberjohn
Registered user
Removed the FD this afternoon. No problems.
Saying bad words about bendy. It was him that encouraged me to remove the 'spade' and have replaced it with a Cymarc extender I picked up on eBay. I'm sure the cuts on my head will all heal eventually.
This is what came out of it. Not supposed to look like that, is it?
I was pretty sure it was changed at the last service about a month ago.
Saying bad words about bendy. It was him that encouraged me to remove the 'spade' and have replaced it with a Cymarc extender I picked up on eBay. I'm sure the cuts on my head will all heal eventually.
This is what came out of it. Not supposed to look like that, is it?
I was pretty sure it was changed at the last service about a month ago.
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I would think that has had water in it !!
Yours is a TC isn;t it John?
Don't they have a Breather on the FD?
Yours is a TC isn;t it John?
Don't they have a Breather on the FD?
comberjohn
Registered user
Yes, a TC with a breather. Checked it in case thats where the oil was coming from and it was fine.
Never use a power washer on it so not sure where it came from.
Was certain that it had been changed. Maybe I'm mistaken.
When I bought it from Hurst's March last year, it had only done 13k miles in five years so maybe this was the first time it had been drained.
Never use a power washer on it so not sure where it came from.
Was certain that it had been changed. Maybe I'm mistaken.
When I bought it from Hurst's March last year, it had only done 13k miles in five years so maybe this was the first time it had been drained.
Removed the FD this afternoon. No problems.
Saying bad words about bendy. It was him that encouraged me to remove the 'spade' and have replaced it with a Cymarc extender I picked up on eBay. I'm sure the cuts on my head will all heal eventually.
This is what came out of it. Not supposed to look like that, is it?
I was pretty sure it was changed at the last service about a month ago.
I just had my "spade" (stone guard) removed last week at a service. Is it a potential problem with the FD John????
comberjohn
Registered user
Ehh, no.
What I meant was that I removed the spade and fitted a Cymarc rear fender extender that I picked up on eBay for a tenner.
Looks cool, but working around the back end at the FD meant that I head butted it a few times as it sticks out from the bottom of the number plate.
Blaming Bendy for the cuts on my head as it was his idea.
No FD was injured by removing the spade.
What I meant was that I removed the spade and fitted a Cymarc rear fender extender that I picked up on eBay for a tenner.
Looks cool, but working around the back end at the FD meant that I head butted it a few times as it sticks out from the bottom of the number plate.
Blaming Bendy for the cuts on my head as it was his idea.
No FD was injured by removing the spade.
Bendy toy
Registered user
I made my fender extender from aluminium. It tends to bend when I head butt it. 
Guess I should rag wrap it.
The FD oil looks water contaminated. Mikey may know if it's possible but maybe water got in via the failing seal. Saying that, when mine was done the oil came out looking quite clean. Maybe the weather was better around the time mine went titsup.
I bagged the FD in a tough poly bag (to contain cat wee oil smell) before packing with lots of foam. I had an old memory foam mattress topper that went under over and all around the FD. Some Tescos fruit bubble wrap filled the gaps to stop it rattling about. Granny and eggs maybe but its a heavy lump & don't want the packing separating to leave the FS bashed about.
What sort of state is the Paralever bearing at the bottom of the FD? Mine had flat needle rollers so Mike replaced that as well as the internals. I refitted it packed with CV joint moly grease. Unlike wheel bearings these just rock back & forth so better packed to the brim with grease.
Guess I should rag wrap it.The FD oil looks water contaminated. Mikey may know if it's possible but maybe water got in via the failing seal. Saying that, when mine was done the oil came out looking quite clean. Maybe the weather was better around the time mine went titsup.
I bagged the FD in a tough poly bag (to contain cat wee oil smell) before packing with lots of foam. I had an old memory foam mattress topper that went under over and all around the FD. Some Tescos fruit bubble wrap filled the gaps to stop it rattling about. Granny and eggs maybe but its a heavy lump & don't want the packing separating to leave the FS bashed about.
What sort of state is the Paralever bearing at the bottom of the FD? Mine had flat needle rollers so Mike replaced that as well as the internals. I refitted it packed with CV joint moly grease. Unlike wheel bearings these just rock back & forth so better packed to the brim with grease.
comberjohn
Registered user
Think I've solved my problem, although some purists might disagree.
Was in touch with Mikeyboy and for the later, breather type it would cost £430 for a full rebuild. No criticism to him, I know that there's a lot of expert work involved.
Also, as Bendy pointed out, the paint on my FD isn't the greatest so including a repaint and p&p, it was heading for £500.
Reading some older posts, I think that mine had maybe been power washed and there may be corrosion where the seal is.
Started sniffing around my favourite place, eBay, and have bought this from a breaker in the Netherlands. They seem to be much cheaper to buy in Europe. £335 including p&p.
It's dark grey instead of silver as its from an R nine T. I can live with that. So, it's no more than two years old and was removed from a crashed bike with only 4800km!
This one will have it's oil changed religiously with the stuff Bendy recommended. Have the bottle sitting waiting in the shed.
Also means I have a spare FD if I feel the need to get it refurbished at a future date.
Was in touch with Mikeyboy and for the later, breather type it would cost £430 for a full rebuild. No criticism to him, I know that there's a lot of expert work involved.
Also, as Bendy pointed out, the paint on my FD isn't the greatest so including a repaint and p&p, it was heading for £500.
Reading some older posts, I think that mine had maybe been power washed and there may be corrosion where the seal is.
Started sniffing around my favourite place, eBay, and have bought this from a breaker in the Netherlands. They seem to be much cheaper to buy in Europe. £335 including p&p.
It's dark grey instead of silver as its from an R nine T. I can live with that. So, it's no more than two years old and was removed from a crashed bike with only 4800km!
This one will have it's oil changed religiously with the stuff Bendy recommended. Have the bottle sitting waiting in the shed.
Also means I have a spare FD if I feel the need to get it refurbished at a future date.
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Is the gearing the same on that fd? I don't know if the fd gearing varies across the range
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Bendy toy
Registered user
That looks pretty. Dont forget to clean and grease pack the paralever needle rollers.
Seems to be 32 - 11 on both bikes but worth a check John
Good Shout Shunt!
Good Shout Shunt!
comberjohn
Registered user
Yep, checked the gearing. The R nine T has an identical ratio to the GS. Believe the RT is fractionally higher geared although there is also a lower geared police version.
Understand that you use Moly grease on the splines, same for the needle bearing?
Also, noticed some pink stuff on the threads of some of the bolts when taking the FD off. Is this a type of Loctite?
Understand that you use Moly grease on the splines, same for the needle bearing?
Also, noticed some pink stuff on the threads of some of the bolts when taking the FD off. Is this a type of Loctite?
Sorry for the hijack John.....what is the best thing (thread size and length) to plug the threaded hole/receiver on the FD where the spade bolts on ???
comberjohn
Registered user
Hi Keith.
Don't know. It came with a Wunderlich kit from Nippy Normans to blank off where the spade was.
TBH the kit really was a farkle. The plate serves no useful purpose and if I had have dug around in my shed, I'm sure I could've found a stainless screw and washer to cut down and fit the hole in the FD casing.
If anyone decides to go for one of those kits, make sure that you run a screw or bolt of the same thread through the holes where the plate is attached to clear any corrosion further into the threads.
The screw that comes with the kit has a small Torx head, plus it's not a great fit.
Going to have fun removing it from the FD if I want to use the blanking plate again.
I see Nippy Norman's selling a kit that moves the number plate on the R nine T to where the spade was. Looks good, but not at £2-300!
Don't know. It came with a Wunderlich kit from Nippy Normans to blank off where the spade was.
TBH the kit really was a farkle. The plate serves no useful purpose and if I had have dug around in my shed, I'm sure I could've found a stainless screw and washer to cut down and fit the hole in the FD casing.
If anyone decides to go for one of those kits, make sure that you run a screw or bolt of the same thread through the holes where the plate is attached to clear any corrosion further into the threads.
The screw that comes with the kit has a small Torx head, plus it's not a great fit.
Going to have fun removing it from the FD if I want to use the blanking plate again.
I see Nippy Norman's selling a kit that moves the number plate on the R nine T to where the spade was. Looks good, but not at £2-300!
Cheers.
Bendy toy
Registered user
To tidy the shovel holes, I used a socket head screws and washers with lots of anti seize grease. The TT bling cover was 2nd hand from another Tosser.
I use the moly grease on suspension needle roller bearings except those which might have nylon parts. It seems to react with nylon.
The rule with wheel and gearbox bearings is grease to one side only. This allows space for the grease to move around the balls/rollers. Too much grease overheats the bearings. Use ordinary LM grease.
Rocking bearings (as in suspension arms) ideally should be plain bushes. Bike makers prefer needle rollers which will quickly rub a dry patch into the grease and eventually wear a flat onto the rollers. Packing them to the brim with moly grease keeps more grease under the rollers. They don't roll around like wheel bearings so the grease won't churn.
The paralever trunnion bearing needs to be thread locked (and clean etc etc) and correct torque. Heat the alloy case to 100C for removal and refitting. I used a heat gun and IR thermometer.
I use the moly grease on suspension needle roller bearings except those which might have nylon parts. It seems to react with nylon.
The rule with wheel and gearbox bearings is grease to one side only. This allows space for the grease to move around the balls/rollers. Too much grease overheats the bearings. Use ordinary LM grease.
Rocking bearings (as in suspension arms) ideally should be plain bushes. Bike makers prefer needle rollers which will quickly rub a dry patch into the grease and eventually wear a flat onto the rollers. Packing them to the brim with moly grease keeps more grease under the rollers. They don't roll around like wheel bearings so the grease won't churn.
The paralever trunnion bearing needs to be thread locked (and clean etc etc) and correct torque. Heat the alloy case to 100C for removal and refitting. I used a heat gun and IR thermometer.
comberjohn
Registered user
Keith. Still had the instructions for the cover.
The screws are dome head and sizes are 2xM6x14 and 1xM6x8. Plus 3 M6 washers. All stainless.
The screws are dome head and sizes are 2xM6x14 and 1xM6x8. Plus 3 M6 washers. All stainless.
Thanks John, I think I'll order the two available guards from Wunderlich anyway, they're only €19.99 each. I'm a little disappointed with the look of the rear hub after removal of the spade.............. it looks very obvious that something has been removed (if that makes sense)
Sent using a Jedi mind trick!
Bendy toy
Registered user
My bike is a lot less dirty after losing the shovel. Instead of it deflecting crap forwards and out over me the dirt just gets kicked back and away. The fender extender keeps it civilised. 
Yeah, hopefully that's the end of the "messy left leg"My bike is a lot less dirty after losing the shovel. Instead of it deflecting crap forwards and out over me the dirt just gets kicked back and away. The fender extender keeps it civilised.
Sent using a Jedi mind trick!
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