Few small problems - Advice please

keymandave

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Hi all,
I've got a couple off little problems i'm hoping the more experienced can help me with.

1 ) Occasionally the red triangle appears, this seems to be connected with pulling the front brake lever. Stop, turn ignition off and back on, all is ok then until next time. Which can be a few hundred miles.

2 ) Over probably about 2000 miles the bike has cut out -
1st time changing from 1st to 2nd bike died
2nd time, today changing down from 3rd to 2nd to turn right, bike died.

3 ) The bike pop back quite a lot when dropping down speed.


Any ideas, advice.

Thanks
 
Let the good folks know what bike it is. year , model etc etc

Get the bike to a dealer or somebody with a GS911 to get the problems diagnosed but your first problem sounds like the dreaded ABS motor.

The popping on over run is normal.

Someone with more knowledge then me will be along soon.
 
Not sure about the red triangle but agree with Keith, could be the dreaded ABS. Need more info.
If your throttle bodies are badly out of sync, you can get stalling when blipping the throttle to change gears. Particularly the lower gears. Mine nearly fell over on me coming up to a junction when it did it.
If you want to get rid of the popping on the over run, you need to re-assemble the exhaust system with new seals in the exhaust ports and use an exhaust ASSEMBLY paste to seal the joints. Holts Firegum from Halfords will do the trick.
I used it on mine and its quiet.
There are some ruffy, tuffy, types on the forum who get a stiffie from the sound of the popping and banging. :rolleyes:
 
Hi all,
I've got a couple off little problems i'm hoping the more experienced can help me with.

1 ) Occasionally the red triangle appears, this seems to be connected with pulling the front brake lever. Stop, turn ignition off and back on, all is ok then until next time. Which can be a few hundred miles.

2 ) Over probably about 2000 miles the bike has cut out -
1st time changing from 1st to 2nd bike died
2nd time, today changing down from 3rd to 2nd to turn right, bike died.

3 ) The bike pop back quite a lot when dropping down speed.


Any ideas, advice.

Thanks

The first problem you need to overcome is state the year of your bike. Different types of ABS you see, depending on year.
 
Hi all,
I've got a couple off little problems i'm hoping the more experienced can help me with.

1 ) Occasionally the red triangle appears, this seems to be connected with pulling the front brake lever. Stop, turn ignition off and back on, all is ok then until next time. Which can be a few hundred miles.

2 ) Over probably about 2000 miles the bike has cut out -
1st time changing from 1st to 2nd bike died
2nd time, today changing down from 3rd to 2nd to turn right, bike died.

3 ) The bike pop back quite a lot when dropping down speed.


Any ideas, advice.

Thanks

Sorry everybody the bike is a 2005 model.

I'm pretty sure the red triangle is the brake switch as that is what it says in the owners manual. Like I said, only the red triangle appears, no other warning light like ABS.
 
Wonky speedo drive, front wheel speed sensor and faulty servo/ABS motor can all trigger the ABS to shut down.
 
Is there a problem with the front brake light switch? I don't think it is the servo for the ABS because I would expect it to be an every present problem... I mean you don't only use the break every couple of hundred miles do you. The cutting out sounds like an electrical issue of some sort... probably a trip to the dealer for a diagnostic check would help identify it ... and relieve you of some of your hard earned. Popping and banging on over run is normal... its a glorified rotavator engine for god sake :)

re red triangle are the terminals of the brake light clean and making good contact?
 
Reference to my cutting out problem, today I found that the clutch switch was not working.

Could this be the problem ?
 
Do you mean at the battery terminals or the main earth on the bike??

Either one. I had a faulty abs unit with red lights n all, but when I found the battery terminal was loose and I tightened it up.... the fault never came back. Apparently ABS units are very suspetibile to strong consistent voltage
 
Either one. I had a faulty abs unit with red lights n all, but when I found the battery terminal was loose and I tightened it up.... the fault never came back. Apparently ABS units are very suspetibile to strong consistent voltage
Thanks for the reply.

Sent from a OnePlusX
 
Reference to my cutting out problem, today I found that the clutch switch was not working.

Could this be the problem ?

There is a clutch switch ? I never knew that where is it? Do you mean brake light switch? That could definitely be the reason why you are having problems.

edit
just had a look at my bike and you are right there does seem to be a wire running to the clutch lever! I wonder why... possibly override the side stand switch?? Anyway anything that is not working can have an effect on the way these bikes perform so get it sorted and find out if it makes the difference :)
re edit
apparently to stop starting in gear unless switch is active. These switches are adjustable so you should be able to fix the problem yourself.
 
Reference to my cutting out problem, today I found that the clutch switch was not working.

Could this be the problem ?

When you look at the idle actuator settings and the injector pulse width on closed throttle deceleration the bike cannot run under these conditions.
Hence the excellent engine braking, ( although it is set up this way for emissions purposes).
The clutch switch does have an influence on these settings. so a faulty clutch switch can cause it to cut out on deceleration.
 
When you look at the idle actuator settings and the injector pulse width on closed throttle deceleration the bike cannot run under these conditions.
Hence the excellent engine braking, ( although it is set up this way for emissions purposes).
The clutch switch does have an influence on these settings. so a faulty clutch switch can cause it to cut out on deceleration.

Thank you very much, lets hope this has been the problem then :-)
 
My clutch lever switch has not worked for years. It means I have to select neutral to start the engine, but its never cut out on closed or part throttle overrun/slowdown.
 
Any update on your ABS problem??


I just had my ABS motor refurbished (although the company said that it was in working order, I went ahead and had it refurbed anyway, just to rule it out of the equation) and my ABS red light of death is still coming on!!!
 
I'm reasonably sure you will have checked the following but can't see it mentioned anywhere so you could try this.

Engine cutting out - are the rubber blanks that cover the vacuum points on the throttle bodies in good condition. If they are age hardened and cracked they could be letting in air which will give you a weak mixture and could cause idle issues as well as the possibility of an increase in popping through the silencer.

Red warning triangle - Front brake lever touching the hand guard? Corrosion at the brake light bulb? Dirt/ metallic debris on the rear ABS sensor.

Let's us know what the final fix was when you find it.
 
My bike was prone to stalling before I changed the primary coils. The stainless case type are much better than the old black coils.
It's recently become more touchy but this time I suspect the weak fuel pump.
Speedo sensor faults will trip the ABS. Mine was really acting up. Took it out - all clean.
Cleaned wiring connector - all locked ok.
It's now behaving itself so who knows why it played up.

Sent via iPhone so expect strange words
 


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