Final drive bearing torque tool

[Alwaysawayround]

I bought an GSA blind as needed one for work and it was within my budget, it turned up and rubber boot was mashed, OK no drama just took it apart, cleaned, no oil drip and shaft has been looked after, OK good, so installing a used boot for now off another I have for parts until I order a new one, but where do the 1150 owners get a hold of this tool that you tighten the 30mm and Allen 12mm on the fd? I could retro fit a long 30mm socket but I don't have a grinder to do so. Just after some wisdom...

(pic taken off guide vid)

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[Grizzly]

You don't need these "special" tools
What I usually do is screw in the pin with an allen key until bearing nicely seated - check by rotating final drive up and down while checking for side play or tightness - I find the "feel" method better than BMW's torque method??
Once your happy with adjustment and feel, mark the face of the screw with a dab of paint - maybe at 12 o'clock position or aligned with swing arm rib? - whatever suits you!
Then fit the locknut and torque-up. Check paint mark has not moved, if it has, slacken locknut again and adjust screw back a suitable amount to compensate for the possible movement during nut torque down - and try again - and again, if neccessary, until you end up with the nut torqued-up and paint dab in correct position

Does that make sense??? DO NOT USE Loctite on pin or nut (as BMW recommend) - but I usually put a dab of paint on nut as well, when finished, so there's always a quick visual check on security - also, not using Loctite means future dismantling or adjustment is easy

Cheers..............................Grizzly

 

[buellzebub]

^^ +1, works for me too

 

[Slipperyeel]

Blimey. You did a good job interpreting the op's question! I only clicked on the post because I thought bloody hell, there's a torque tool for the FD?!



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[beemer pimp]

+1

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[Alwaysawayround]

You don't need these "special" tools
What I usually do is screw in the pin with an allen key until bearing nicely seated - check by rotating final drive up and down while checking for side play or tightness - I find the "feel" method better than BMW's torque method??
Once your happy with adjustment and feel, mark the face of the screw with a dab of paint - maybe at 12 o'clock position or aligned with swing arm rib? - whatever suits you!
Then fit the locknut and torque-up. Check paint mark has not moved, if it has, slacken locknut again and adjust screw back a suitable amount to compensate for the possible movement during nut torque down - and try again - and again, if neccessary, until you end up with the nut torqued-up and paint dab in correct position

Does that make sense??? DO NOT USE Loctite on pin or nut (as BMW recommend) - but I usually put a dab of paint on nut as well, when finished, so there's always a quick visual check on security - also, not using Loctite means future dismantling or adjustment is easy

Cheers..............................Grizzly

Grizzly, thank you very much.

Appreciate it and I think we always prefer the feel method, ie alwaysawayround (bmw)

Cheers

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[Alwaysawayround]

+1

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That does help cheers beemerpimp, it may seem simple to some but im just trying to learn as we go as love the 1150s and don't want to give to mechanic if it's something that I can learn to do and understand the machine workings something not really possible with the latest electric full 20k bikes

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[ThreeDawg]

Nowt wrong with having the correct tool - Laser do the one I have, and it works well. https://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk/acatalog/BMW-SPECIAL-TOOLS.html

 

[beemer pimp]

That does help cheers beemerpimp, it may seem simple to some but im just trying to learn as we go as love the 1150s and don't want to give to mechanic if it's something that I can learn to do and understand the machine workings something not really possible with the latest electric full 20k bikes

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Yeah I was same when got my 1st beemer, learn as you go, and plenty folk here to give tips.

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[Wrigsby1]

I'm with Grizzly... Great description of practical oilhead experience...

 

[Steptoe]

That’s not the final drive bearing...... it’s the paralever bearing. One is a big feck off sized roller bearing, the others are a small delicate taper roller bearing... unless the OP is talking about the swing arm bearing, which is different again. Not even sure which gaiter he’s replaced , is it the swing arm/gearbox gaiter or the paralever/final drive gaiter ?

 

[Grizzly]

That’s not the final drive bearing...... it’s the paralever bearing. One is a big feck off sized roller bearing, the others are a small delicate taper roller bearing... unless the OP is talking about the swing arm bearing, which is different again. Not even sure which gaiter he’s replaced , is it the swing arm/gearbox gaiter or the paralever/final drive gaiter ?

It wasn't clear from OP's description - but I figured it was the paralever pins?
Assuming he'd had to drop the bevel box to replace the gaitor between swing arm and bevel box???

Cheers......................Grizzly

 

[Slipperyeel]

That’s not the final drive bearing...... it’s the paralever bearing. One is a big feck off sized roller bearing, the others are a small delicate taper roller bearing... unless the OP is talking about the swing arm bearing, which is different again. Not even sure which gaiter he’s replaced , is it the swing arm/gearbox gaiter or the paralever/final drive gaiter ?

So it wasn't only me

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