Rear wheel/final drive bearing replacement - R1150GSA

[Beancounter]

I have a small amount of play in my rear wheel bearing, picked up as an MOT advisory. I’ve replaced plenty of ‘normal’ wheel bearings but never one the rear of my GS.

The Haynes manual helpfully says that replacing the final drive bearing is beyond the scope of the manual which suggests it’s a task best left to people who know what they’re talking about. However, the few YouTube videos I’ve watched make it look relatively straightforward, if a lot more involved than replacing other wheel bearings.

What’s the score then? Something best left to professionals or something that can be attempted by a competent home mechanic? Any special tools required? Blind bearing puller?

TIA.

 

[hops]

A bit of play doesn’t automatically mean the main bearing is shot. It could be the parameter bearings and depending on the amount of play and where it there is a certain amount of adjustment that could be taken up to eliminate the play. There are several posts on here that would probably lead you through both processes. You can replace the main bearing yourself if you’re fairly competent and don’t even need a puller but it will certainly make life easier if you need to. Try applying the back brake and rocking the back wheel to see if the movement is still there, this might help point to one or the other.

 

[Beancounter]

A bit of play doesn’t automatically mean the main bearing is shot. It could be the parameter bearings and depending on the amount of play and where it there is a certain amount of adjustment that could be taken up to eliminate the play. There are several posts on here that would probably lead you through both processes. You can replace the main bearing yourself if you’re fairly competent and don’t even need a puller but it will certainly make life easier if you need to. Try applying the back brake and rocking the back wheel to see if the movement is still there, this might help point to one or the other.

Thanks, not heard of the parameter bearings before. Will give your suggestion of applying the back brake a try and see what happens.

FWIW, I tried the wheel for play like you would on a normal two-sided swingarm, i.e. hold the wheel at 12 o’clock/6 o’clock and 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock and wiggle, definitely a teeny-tiny bit of movement.

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks, not heard of the parameter bearings before. .

I think Hops auto spell kicked in. He meant Paralever bearings. The left inner is adjustable.

 

[hops]

I think Hops auto spell kicked in. He meant Paralever bearings. The left inner is adjustable.

Hadn’t spotted that, thanks Neil, bloody autocorrect! Yes I meant paralever or pivot bearings, number 2 in this diagram is the bolt with the adjustment that goes into one side. You can sometimes slacken off the locknut and nip up the pivot bolt a tad. Don’t overdo it and sometimes the locknut needs a bit of heat to loosen off possible threadlock. If you’re not sure what to do after a bit of research you could do a lot worse than employ the services of the man above, if he has time to see you in between finding robbers and dropping things on various parts of his anatomy!

The other thing there is a small amount of play in these bikes sometimes anyway which the tester may not know if he isn’t used to paralever systems.

 

[Beancounter]

Thanks for clarifying, no wonder I'd not heard of parameter bearings before. I should really have guessed.