Final drive. Oh...

[mikeyboy]

And guess who's taken it over???

Tis true,
Steve scrimm closed up shop last month.
Myself and Steve have been working together closely for the last 6 months to move his tooling, spares and processes into my
Workshop,
Most of the tooling and equipment is in place,with a few More technical repairs to follow.

 

[Nin]

Ah, that explains a lot. Nice one Mike, a great responsibility to take on and I've no doubt they've chosen wisely.

 

[Packer]

@Packer, what does the full refurb involve, presumably more than just a bearings/seals change? Very pricey?

I paid under £250 including courier back to me when I asked Scriminger to sort mine. I had an Alaska trip planned and wasn't prepared to cut corners. I can't remember exactly what was done though, it was four years ago. I'd had the big bearing failures at 26,000, 60,000 and 69,000 miles so it was worth doing properly. Worst case scenario is input shaft bearings and seals plus taper roller for the crown shaft and the big ball race bearing and seal on the opposite end of the crown wheel shaft that normally fails. I feel, from an unqualified viewpoint, that BMW fudged the design having a taper roller on the opposite end of the shaft to a ball race. As such he shimming is critical.

If the bike is a keeper find a trusted expert and tell them to do whatever is necessary. If you want to do it yourself you'll need a bearing puller, a freezer and an oven to make life easy. When I replaced the factory item at 26,000 miles it lasted to 60,000 and I'd not done one previously.

P.S. I bought a cheap bearing puller from Machine Mart although I did need to file the legs a bit to do the job.

 

[(RIP) trickytree]

Tis true,
Steve scrimm closed up shop last month.
Myself and Steve have been working together closely for the last 6 months to move his tooling, spares and processes into my
Workshop,
Most of the tooling and equipment is in place,with a few More technical repairs to follow.

Bloody cheapskate....you could have moved the other way I only work round the corner from Scrims old place

Seriously, good luck with your new venture

 

[Slipperyeel]

Cheers. Yes, watched a bit of that earlier - I'm just thinking that I'm not sure if it's worth finding all them tools if (hopefully) I won't need them again soon

There's only two annoying parts of the job (I mean for big bearing and seal).

1. Having a 7mm allen key. Not normally part of a standard set....

2. Getting the bearing off.

To be honest the one thing that could stop you early on is that flippin allen key! After that, there's room for improvisation

 

[GADGET]

And guess who's taken it over???

Sorry to read that Steve is not in business any more, so, go on, who is in the chair?

 

[Blackal]

Sorry to read that Steve is not in business any more, so, go on, who is in the chair?

Post No 21

 

[dubster]

Sounds like Mikeyboy you're busy these days - saw the other thread, what a lovely bike

Thanks for the opinions folks, decided to give it a bash myself; inspired, I must say, by tails of prowess in Swiss hotels

Have been looking for the right size bearing puller, but no idea tbh... putting out an SOS on the regional channel. Oh and I had a dig through and found a 7mm allen


edit: What could possibly go wrong?

 

[kennyc]

Sounds like Mikeyboy you're busy these days - saw the other thread, what a lovely bike

Thanks for the opinions folks, decided to give it a bash myself; inspired, I must say, by tails of prowess in Swiss hotels

Have been looking for the right size bearing puller, but no idea tbh... putting out an SOS on the regional channel. Oh and I had a dig through and found a 7mm allen


edit: What could possibly go wrong?

don't bother with a puller, you can tease it out with a couple of chisels heres the thread with details in, some photos are now gone but the gist is there .

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/159180-How-to-check-your-Final-drive-bearing-1100-1150

 

[Steptoe]

I did mine in a Hotel garage in Switzerland, all you need is a couple of chisels, a 7mm allen key and a hammer

Steptoe did a write up on the procedure

I was once called from south america by a couple of GSers, Shaun and eric who were touring south america and who had a failed final drive bearing. I talked him through the procedure and we ended up with the bearing and cover heating up in the hotel oven where they were stuck.

Those were the days

 

[dubster]

Those were the days

Those were the days you had the all-important photos in your excellent guides

Anyway will still give it a shot, the instructions are nice and clear, thanks

 

[southerndespatchcourier]

Top tip for getting the deep groove bearing off...two long tyre levers

I put the crown wheel end with its taper roller into an open can on a bench (or on the floor) so the ball bearing sits out in the open on top

slip the curved end of your long tyre levers under the outer bearing race at 180 degrees to each other.......press down evenly on the levers...once the bearing has moved a little reset the levers under the inner race and repeat...this is way easier than trying to find a puller with legs slim enough to fit.

 

[oldnfat]

Top tip for getting the deep groove bearing off...two long tyre levers

I put the crown wheel end with its taper roller into an open can on a bench (or on the floor) so the ball bearing sits out in the open on top

slip the curved end of your long tyre levers under the outer bearing race at 180 degrees to each other.......press down evenly on the levers...once the bearing has moved a little reset the levers under the inner race and repeat...this is way easier than trying to find a puller with legs slim enough to fit.

Brilliant....

 

[southerndespatchcourier]

I've done a few rear drives recently and that is by far the easiest method...I use a knife puller (reversed) to remove the taper roller and I have a slide hammer with an internal expanding head (from my aircooled steering head bearing days) that does the business on the taper roller outer race.