Final Drive Oil Change - Having read all the threads.........

[Bertie]

..............I'm even more bothered and bewildered! I have a 2005 1200GS with sealed for life drainless FD. On the basis of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", do I need to change the oil or not? I've read so many threads on this, I could really do with a definitive answer before I go and change the oil unnecessarily.

In addition, surely the truck diff specification 75w/140 makes sense if it is "sealed for life", or 80w90 GL5 for annual changes? I've had Jap bikes with FD before, and they've never failed/needed anything other than normal stuff.

And finally, in the excellent "How to do" pics, the torque arm is bolted up to 43nm, but in some other threads, mention is made that the nut is a squash type, and should be renewed each time.

Can someone clear all this up for me, bearing (sic!) in mind my Beemer is running sweeter than a very sweet thing.....

Thank you

 

[Pukmeister]

Ask your dealer if it has now become a part of the standard servicing routine. If it has, then yes you do need to do it or have it done. If not, then it is purely optional. I do all my own servicing anyway but I consider myself pretty good with a spanner.

Having had three final drives in 27,000 miles, I will be routinely changing my FD oil at 12,000 mile intervals or annually, whichever comes sooner. It's dead easy to do and costs very little (£15 for enough oil to do four oil changes).

The spec for the final drive is Castrol SAF-XO. Do not use anything else unless it meets or exceeds this oils specification. Presumably the loading of the bevel gears and bearings requires this oil over any other.

EP80W90 is for the gearbox only, not the final drive.

Yes, the swaged nut you mention should be changed, however I have re-used mine without any problems at the set torque. Again thats your call on your bike if DIY servicing.

 

[ed4554]

Well Bertie.
If you have read all I mean all the threads on this then you would change the oil asap. Then change it on a regular basis. Mine is changed every service.

 

[Bertie]

Thanks guys - Adam, the oil I already have in my garage is EP 80W90 Differential oil, not gear oil, and it has GL5 rating - still no good? The job itself is straightforward, and I have no issue with actually doing it

 

[Pukmeister]

No Bertie, no good. Sorry.

The Castrol EP80W90 for the gearbox is also branded as Diff Oil but is NOT approved for the final drive on the 1200. It would be fine in an earlier model eg 1150/1100/850.

The ONLY oil approved by BMW Europe for the final drive unit is Castrol SAF-XO to API GL5 SAE 75W90.

I believe the Yanks go one step further and get the SAF-XJ which is for limited slip diffs and is overkill at API GL5 SAE 75W140 ( but don't quote me on this).

 

[Bertie]

Ok ta - I'll order some from Opie Oils as mentioned in some of the many threads!

 

[MattW]

Just for info, Halfords do an 'own brand' 75w90 GL5 semi-synth gear oil.

I use this in my 1100 and change every 6000miles (or I will when I've done my first 6000 with it )

cheers
Matt

 

[Bertie]

Drained the FD this morning - job made very easy from reading all the previous posts! The shaft/spline/boot interface was full of water as experienced by others, although I don't pressure wash bikes,just hose them off. Will be more careful in future.

Will let the FD drain while I'm waiting for Opie Oils to send the right dose of XO through.....