phooey
Registered user
A job I'm about to undertake, others may find this helpful...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0_j8SuiFQI
Final drive replacement YouTube
- Thread starter phooey
- Start date
MUD
Registered user
Did you realy have to heat the pivot bolts that much ??
It's good but..
He mentions prop shaft phasing, but then refits final drive without showing/ explaining correct phasing. Which makes me think that the shaft has a key spline or they don't care.
There is some confusion about the para lever pivot bearing load. The manual states 7nm. He says 10 to 12nm with a minimum of 10nm. I would like to know the consensus on this.
I fitted new bearings at 7nm and after 1000 miles there was signs of brinelling. I'm currently running at half way between hand tight and 5nm. Just tight so there is no play in final drive.
He mentions prop shaft phasing, but then refits final drive without showing/ explaining correct phasing. Which makes me think that the shaft has a key spline or they don't care.
There is some confusion about the para lever pivot bearing load. The manual states 7nm. He says 10 to 12nm with a minimum of 10nm. I would like to know the consensus on this.
I fitted new bearings at 7nm and after 1000 miles there was signs of brinelling. I'm currently running at half way between hand tight and 5nm. Just tight so there is no play in final drive.
His other videos are useful too.
Just watched the one on engine noise which can be caused by a loose cap on a push rod
He's a bit of an arse. Lots of things wrong, and on one of the videos regarding a K series he's shows he doesn't really know what he's talking about... and the servo removal video isn't the way to do it.
I think the manual states initial torque of 9nm to seat the bearings, then release and retorque to 7nm, but I'm the same, do it by hand.
The problem with torqueing if there's any wear, is the wear is only over a short range of movement and will taper off towards the end of that movement.
Different with new or good pins and bearings though
I was surprised he'd missed out phasing after saying he'd cover it later, perhaps they did phase them and forgot to mention it because it didn't look like there was a master spline.
Some people thinks it's not important as the angle's fairly shallow, I'm not so sure otherwise why did they fit a master spline on later bikes?
He's a bit of an arse. Lots of things wrong, and on one of the videos regarding a K series he's shows he doesn't really know what he's talking about... and the servo removal video isn't the way to do it.
Don't know about the K's but I can see what you mean, he's on a bit of a mission
Regarding loose push rod ends, I hadn't heard of it on the GS before and could explain something for me.
His other videos are useful too.
Just watched the one on engine noise which can be caused by a loose cap on a push rod
You mean like the thread posted on ukgser over 6 years ago [URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101059&highlight=pushrod"]HERE[/URL].
You can't tell by the noise alone, it's different everytime, and sometimes makes no noise, you just see a silvery paste.
You mean like the thread posted on ukgser over 6 years ago [URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101059&highlight=pushrod"]HERE[/URL].
You can't tell by the noise alone, it's different everytime, and sometimes makes no noise, you just see a silvery paste.
Ah
must've missed that
See my post above.... I'm surprised you've not heard of it before - There are also lots other posts on ukgser over the years where it's been offered as a suggstion for a problem.
Yes, it's my memory it's coming back to me now
The issue I have is a rattle 30 seconds after starting from cold which disappears after about 3 minutes and can't pin point where the noise is coming from.
Valve clearance and end floats spot on, cam chain tensioners 'seem' ok.
Regarding rocker end float and setting at 0.05, it's difficult to get any where near a similar reading either side of the same rocker.
ie. the pedestal isn't square to the rocker face
When I vigorously slide the rocker up and down, even with that small amount of end float I can hear a similar noise to my 'problem' noise.
Should I slacken everything off and aim to get it all square as well as within tolerance?
Forget that, it should've been in the 1150 stupid questions thread
because of course if both inlet and exhaust end floats are correct, the pedestal 'is'/should be square
Doesn't explain why I can't get a uniform gap around the rocker though, I doubt it's wear.
He's a bit of an arse. Lots of things wrong, and on one of the videos regarding a K series he's shows he doesn't really know what he's talking about... and the servo removal video isn't the way to do it.
Agreed, but if you were a novice and watched his video and read your posts. You would be a lot more comfortable at taking on the task.
I was always wary about this job, but I've now had my final drive off and on 3 times in the past month. Simples.
Agreed, but if you were a novice and watched his video and read your posts. You would be a lot more comfortable at taking on the task.
I was always wary about this job, but I've now had my final drive off and on 3 times in the past month. Simples.
+1
Agreed , I like his style ! But why have you had the FD off 3 times !!
But why have you had the FD off 3 times !!
1st - swooped r1150gs for R1100gs final drive.
2nd - I wasn't happy I had got the phasing right. I hadn't. Without a master spline it's possible to think you have it right. But be a spline out. Rotate stub shaft 180 degrees and it lines up perfectly. Also wanted to check pivot bearings after 1000 miles.
3rd - Was a revisit to pivot bearings, regrease and re- torque to a lower value.
I've a 4th comming up to refit original final drive. Though much later on.
My 1100 is the same. My guess is that they aren't machined perfectly true from new.
They use the green one yes, and that F....R is almost like welded if not heated good! And the bolts and lock nut are not cheap either, check here in Norway and the 2 bolts and the lock nut is around 200 punds at the dealer.........
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