Specifically, can I use an 1150gs final drive on an r1100rt (both ABS)? Anyone tried this or similar? My only concern is the rear disc which mounts to the FD on the 1100.
Final Drive swap between models/years?
- Thread starter fatnfast
- Start date
Yes, yes & it's no problem as long as you get a carrier for it...
Many thanks, thats great.
Is it like ... heavy or summit?
ahebron
Registered user
Yes done it, but 1100's are a lower ratio which takes the edge off the high bottom gear on 1150's and good for off roading. Don't try one from an 850 as mentioned on Adventure Riders as this is much too low, 1100's make an 1150 perfect for traffic without needing to touch the clutch. I have one on mine put on for an epic run (for me!) from Alaska to Ushia (Argentina). Changed it back to std when I got home, but a week later put it back as it was such an improvement for every day use.
Just as Dave and Paul say they are all interchangeable and its a straight swap. I've just put an 1150gs onto my 1100RT, and there was no issues other than removing the disc and carrier from the 1100 to fit to the 1150. I had a leaky input seal on my 1100 drive and the swap just keeps me mobile until I can sort out a repair with Steptoe in the new year
Its a good chance to check and grease or replace the pivot bearings as well.
Have a look here http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/ and it will give you an idea as to what a swap will do.
Its a good chance to check and grease or replace the pivot bearings as well.
Have a look here http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/ and it will give you an idea as to what a swap will do.
I know everyone tends to move to lower gearing, but I've always been a bit of a rebel so swapped my 1150GS FD for one from an 1100S. The taller gearing means I no longer run into the rev limiter in 5th & 6th is even better for motorway work. The effect on 1st gear has not been an issue for me (2000 model & still on the orgininal clutch...). The Largiader site was brilliant for gauging what the effect would be for the different FD's which could be used. Just avoid the 1200C ones 
My main concern at the moment is to get this bike on the road for the lowest price.
So stop the fd dumping oil all over the back wheel and replace a fork seal if needed, then get it mot'd
I can worry about gearing later, or I may just avoid the whole issue and trike it.
So stop the fd dumping oil all over the back wheel and replace a fork seal if needed, then get it mot'd
I can worry about gearing later, or I may just avoid the whole issue and trike it.
On a slight tangent, how effective is that minimal mudguard that the GS has?
May be worth me fitting one and getting rid of the big lump of plastic below my number plate? (which should make wheel removal easier).
May be worth me fitting one and getting rid of the big lump of plastic below my number plate? (which should make wheel removal easier).
Its not that good really, when riding in crap weather a fair bit of muck is thrown up all around the rear end. There is that weird secondary rear mudguard the gs has, but that uses the two mounting lugs on the final drive that's exclusive to the gs. My RT has just 3 screws that allow you to quickly remove the rear muddy, not sure if your RS has something similar?
So my initial thought the first time I saw it all those years ago was pretty accurate then
I'll have a look tomorrow.
After spending 14 years on a Yam FJ, I never even considered that the mudguard may be easy to remove
I'll have a look tomorrow.
After spending 14 years on a Yam FJ, I never even considered that the mudguard may be easy to remove
ahutcheon
Registered user
Works perfectly for meeting the German legal requirement for a mudguard behind and below the top of the rear wheel.
Never tried running my GS without it, so can't say whether the back of the bike would get covered in any more shite (the panniers do quite a good job of stopping mud spreading sideways...)
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