Finally getting some time to delve into my new G/S, some questions if I may.

sj_4x4

sj_4x4

Member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Dec 15, 2020
Messages
77
Reaction score
7
Location
Cornwall
First off it looks like I have some after market wiring additions both on the home made brackets, can anyone tell me what the box with the switch is, some form of electronic ignition ? Also mounted on some chequer plate at the other end I have a box with four blade fuses and two plug connectors cable tied to it, anyone got any ideas please what it may be ?

With the final drive, the silicone fairies have been in here before me in a futile attempt to fix a leak, on the rear brake spigot there is a bit of gasket paper at one end and a washer at the other, I assume neither are supposed to be there ?

My plan is replace all the oil seals and gaskets, is it worth replacing the brass bushes or will I get away with just new O rings ?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

Attachments

  • 20210101_162933 copy.jpg
    20210101_162933 copy.jpg
    163.3 KB · Views: 675
  • 20210101_170015 copy.jpg
    20210101_170015 copy.jpg
    96.5 KB · Views: 675
  • 20210101_172236 copy.jpg
    20210101_172236 copy.jpg
    218.6 KB · Views: 711
Is the standard fuse box still fitted?
It should mount with a jubilee clip on the rear of the main frame spar,
Maybe it was corroded and replaced with the one you picture.
Looks like the bike has been twin plugged so it may have a replacement control box.
Regarding the rear bevel,the later bikes have a single tube instead of the two bushes,
Fitting the one piece tube will eliminate the chance of future leaks from the brake shaft.
 
mikeyboy said:
Is the standard fuse box still fitted?
It should mount with a jubilee clip on the rear of the main frame spar,
Click to expand...

Will have a look, my main focus was to get the final drive apart.

Regarding the rear bevel,the later bikes have a single tube instead of the two bushes,
Fitting the one piece tube will eliminate the chance of future leaks from the brake shaft.
Click to expand...

That makes much more sense, is there a part number / source for the later tube ?

Thanks for replying.
 
The bush you need is;
33112301699.
If you have the older 2 bushes fitted they will need pressing out, and don’t forget to bond in the new longer sleeve, use a loctite or similar product.
New o rings on brake shaft, if you have 4 there may be too much stiction for the shaft to return to the rest position. Just use 2, one either end of the shaft. Also don’t forget the felt washer that sits on outside behind the brake operating arm. All will be well.
Steve.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looks like four blade fuses is my fuse box, so need to have a better look at the loom.

Thanks for your help guys, final drive all parts stripped and cleaned just need to order a load of new bits and put it back together, I don't suppose anyone has a final driver breather plug they want to sell ?
 

Attachments

  • 20210102_163100.jpg
    20210102_163100.jpg
    272.3 KB · Views: 532
Thanks guys shawstainless had not come up on my radar, lots of shiny things to dress the old girl up a bit.
 
Parts arrived yesterday and all fitted and back together, The G/S is my first shaft bike, I assume you fill the final drive with oil until it weeps out the small plug on the rear in the same way you do with car diffs ?
 

Attachments

  • jobjobbed.jpg
    jobjobbed.jpg
    188.3 KB · Views: 383
Gearbox oil capacity - 800 cc

Gearbox oil - Good quality hypoid gear oil API class GL-5 SAE 80W90 or 75W140


Driveshaft oil capacity 150 cc

Driveshaft oil same as Gearbox oil - Good quality hypoid gear oil API class GL-5 SAE 80W90


Rear bevel drive oil capacity - 350 cc

Rear bevel drive oil same as Gearbox oil - Good quality hypoid gear oil API class GL-5 SAE 80W90
 
I've always gone with that one, to save me taking the plug out at the rear as it once got stripped.

Your first assumption is correct though, fill it until it starts coming out at the rear plug hole, but it might be worth measuring what goes in. I'm pretty sure that's what it says in my Haynes manual. Just going upstairs to check.

Edit: You're right, looks like 260cc. I've been doing it wrong all this time. :blast
 
tuftywhite said:
Edit: You're right, looks like 260cc. I've been doing it wrong all this time. :blast
Click to expand...

Thanks for checking, I have learned after many bike and car projects that manuals written over 40 years ago do contain errors, and people have found better ways of doing things to avoid common problems that arise.
 
sj_4x4 said:
Thanks for checking, I have learned after many bike and car projects that manuals written over 40 years ago do contain errors, and people have found better ways of doing things to avoid common problems that arise.
Click to expand...

This wasn't a manual error, this was me reading it wrongly, then writing it down somewhere and believing it to be right.
 
tuftywhite said:
This wasn't a manual error, this was me reading it wrongly, then writing it down somewhere and believing it to be right.
Click to expand...

I know just checking ;-) 260cc filled from the breather and it weeps out of the "filler" she's ready for a proper ride out, but we are locked down :-(
 
sj_4x4 said:
I know just checking ;-) 260cc filled from the breather and it weeps out of the "filler" she's ready for a proper ride out, but we are locked down :-(
Click to expand...

Good work. Just sit on it in the garage and watch TET YouTube videos on a screen in front of your bike!!!
 
Hi, I'm having a very similar problem with oil in the brake drum. I'd replaced the O rings on the shaft but it didn't help. So I'm going to have to replace the two bushes for the single sleeve. Did you have any problems getting the bushes out and fitting the new sleeve?
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom