First time serious spannering - assistance

[GSmonkey]

Just bought myself a late 04 R1150R (Non-ABS ), only 2,500 miles on the clock.

Dubious service history to say the least i.e. no service book. Guy says it was serviced 6 months ago when he bought it, but it sounds by a non-BMW garage at best.

Anyway, I've committed to spannering this bike myself. Only ever done oil changes / brake pad changes in the past, so I'm starting from scratch really. So I'm after a bit of advice. The plan is to change all fluids when I get it i.e. engine, gearbox, FD, brake & clutch. Then do valve clearances and balance the throttle bodies.

My preliminary questions to the gurus:

1) Clymer or Haines?

2) What bits do I need to permanently install a bleed nipple on the clutch bleed pipe?

3) I'm assuming that most of the bolts haven't been shifted in 6yrs - what's the best penetrating oil to pre-treat with before I get started?

4) Anyone in Bromley area fancy giving me a hand with the first valve clearance / TB balance - can offer cups of tea and a pub lunch

+ anything else I should be looking at on this bike? I think I've hit the main points.

 

[Pekkavee]

You can download a service manual from here to start with:
http://ursa.irk.ru/manual/

Pekka

 

[The smudger]

Only thing you'll struggle with is the TB balance. If you adjust the tappets check the ROCKER ARM AXIAL FLOAT. This is just the amount the rocker arms move up and down when off load. If it's too much you'll need to loosen head bolts to adjust, so will need a good torque wrench to tighten.

1 bit of advice on the TB's, DO NOT adjust the throttle stops. The butterfly's are set up in a sort of mini wind tunnel from the factory, then screws/locknuts are dabbed with lock&seal. Again, DO NOT touch these as if you do you'll really struggle to get it set up right. Best thing to do is remove and clean using carb cleaner, then make sure its air tight, (balancing point rubber caps get ragged with age, underneath TB's), make sure there's freeplay on the throttle cables, then attach a balance tool and adjust using the 2 brass screws. If you cant get them exact, dont worry too much. A lot of people spend a lot of time on TB's dont do it, (unless someones been there and played with the lockstops, then be prepared for hours of fiddling!)

The rest is easy.

I'd love to take you up on the offer of a 'free lunch', but too far away

Keep it Simple!!!!

Smudger.

 

[davegs]

New bike

Just change the fluids and ride it you may not need to mess about with throttles etc no point in making jobs just ride it.

 

[mr_magicfingers]

Steptoe of this parish used to do a basic service demo day apparently, perhaps he could be persuaded to do another one in the near future. I'd be up for that.

I have the downloaded manual and a clymer manual, both good, and I like having a manual in the garage rather than a laptop. Lots of good info on this site and also in the wisdom section of advrider.com

 

[littleredrooster]

.....1 bit of advice on the TB's, DO NOT adjust the throttle stops.

Good advice

....balancing point rubber caps get ragged with age, underneath TB's

Good advice

....make sure there's freeplay on the throttle cables, then attach a balance tool and adjust using the 2 brass screws. If you cant get them exact, dont worry too much. A lot of people spend a lot of time on TB's dont do it

Keep it Simple!!!!

Smudger.

Mmmmm....you need to set the TBs with the throttle cable adjusters more than the brass screws.

Throttle open at about 3000rpm and watch the balance device. Adjust RIGHT HAND CABLE ONLY to give balance (it takes a bit of figuring out first time around - do I need more slack or less slack in this cable?), then go back to brass screws and set idle balance and idle speed. It's worth spending time on getting the balance right, because they run like turbines when correct.

Don't let the motor get too hot when doing this - you may need to retire to a cup of tea after about ten/fifteen minutes and come back when the motor has cooled a bit.

If you're ever in the Midlands, I'll give you a demonstration.

 

[GSmonkey]

All good stuff guys.

I think I'm going to apply the tried and tested method of learning from my own mistakes!!

 

[GSmonkey]

Well, this weekend was the first bit of work. Changed the engine oil, gearbox oil, FD oil, brake fluid and clutch fluid. Removed the Autocom installed on the bike, removed the BMW Navigator and installed my own GPS leads. Anyway, I learnt the following:

1) You're better off with a bit of clear tubing and a jam jar rather than bothering with a cheap halfords one man brake bleeder kit. Cheap shite.

2) Read the bit on how full to make the front brake / clutch reservoirs to avoid it pissing out on your test ride.

3) Pay more attention when removing the worlds smallest bit of metal that is the rear pad pin retaining clip.

4) When it says "Drive rear pin out using a drift" continue to read the bit that says "...towards the wheel" to save 10 minutes of getting out progressively bigger hammers.

5) Leave the reservoir covers on when pumping the brakes - it'll squirt at least 6 feet, luckily not towards the car

Overall I really enjoyed doing the work. Next step is valve clearances the engine is running smooth as a baby's bottom, but there is an annoying ticking from the right cylinder.