fitted a touratech ceramic cluth today

andy malton

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Fitted a touratech ceramic clutch plate today to a mates 1150.
It was a bit of a major strip down,basically everything from where the engine joins the gearbox has to come off,all very straight forward stuff,but one thing I would do in future is to remove the clutch slave cylinder and take the rod out we decided to leave it in,it's about a foot long and once you pop the box off of the locating dowels you have to keep it dead level otherwise there is a chance you could bend it,but with two people it was easy to do.
Andy
don't look much for £300:(
 

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here is the plate,no it's not gold but costs as much.
 

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Andy,

I seem to remember from the Touratech catalogue that there were some special precautions to take after fitting these things (running in?). Has the bike been out for a test ride yet? Does the new clutch feel normal?
Did your mate wear out his old clutch or just decide to upgrade? If you needed to replace the clutch anyway, how much extra would it cost to upgrade to ceramic at the same time?

Sorry for the barrage of questions....

Mike:)
 
clutch

Mike,
I not sure about a running in period but they take a long time to bed in 5000 miles so I heard,and he want to replace the oe clutch as his bike is close to 30k and thats around replacement time.We measured the thickness left on the oe clutch and there was only 0.8mm to go until the rivets.The new plate measured 7.2 the old one was still 5.8 thick.
Also supplied with clutch were shim washers two for each of the six bolts and you had to pack each one out 1.2mm don't really know why,I rode home with steve today and he said the clutch feels lighter for some reason but not really much difference
But he does have knowledge that he will most probably never buy another clutch plate.Andy
 
Re: clutch

andy malton said:
Mike,
I not sure about a running in period but they take a long time to bed in 5000 miles so I heard,and he want to replace the oe clutch as his bike is close to 30k and thats around replacement time.We measured the thickness left on the oe clutch and there was only 0.8mm to go until the rivets.The new plate measured 7.2 the old one was still 5.8 thick.
Also supplied with clutch were shim washers two for each of the six bolts and you had to pack each one out 1.2mm don't really know why,I rode home with steve today and he said the clutch feels lighter for some reason but not really much difference
But he does have knowledge that he will most probably never buy another clutch plate.Andy

I sold Ricardo Kuhn a ceramc clutch and he's riding with it as well. It really needs a careful breaking in period of 5000 km (not miles). Only after that time will the clutch work properly.....
 
Re: Re: clutch

Mike Werner said:
I sold Ricardo Kuhn a ceramc clutch and he's riding with it as well. It really needs a careful breaking in period of 5000 km (not miles). Only after that time will the clutch work properly.....

So how do you break in a clutch?

Mike:confused:
 
I was talking to nick at touratech last week about these cost my clutch has gone kaput at 16000miles, he said the only thing with them is that they tend to slip a bit until they are bedded in, which I suppose is about right for a bit of very tough friction material that we can expect to last the life of the bike


I am gonna order one as I approach 30000miles so that I have got it to hand when the bugger packs up again
 
Re: clutch

andy malton said:
as his bike is close to 30k and thats around replacement time. (QUOTE)



......so I should be on my third clutch at 77,000 kms ???????

I must be doing something wrong, the original feels fine ........

Phil
 
The ceramic clutch may have a lifetime warranty, but what about the friction and backing plates?

My experience is that if you punish the clutch it can blow up half a lap into the first race and I'm talking BMW clutches here. Clutch slipping is their worst enemy as opposed to the multiplate wet clutch fitted to nearly all other machines.

I've done 5 clutches in various BMW bikes whilst racing them, it's the nature of the situation. Whereas with my normal riding, which hasn't been soft on clutches, as long as oil is kept off them from either the engine or gearbox, then they usually last 250,000 Klm's.

The worst BMW clutch was on an 898 twin (R90s) that had been warmed in the breathing department and went quite well. We decided that the clutch needed replacing and so after a weekend of racing we put in a new one along with new pressure and backing plates. The clutch during the following week was run in and all was in readiness for the next weekends racing.

Practice went by and we were looking pretty good. Came the first of three races we had entered and by the time I got to the first corner the clutch had glazed over and burnt out. The reason is that I slipped it a bit too much trying to keep up with the others from a standing start.

This was't good, so we pulled it apart and put in an old clutch we had. Missing the second race but in time for the 3rd race we hit the track and this time I took off more sedately with very little slippage and we were racing. That old clutch lasted until we retired that bike from racing about 4 meetings later.

It went to another person who glazed the clutch in his first race start, coz he was slipping it whilst he was revving the ding out of the bike to keep up with all the others on the start line.

I concluded after those observations, that BMW motorcycle clutches really don't like slipping very much, but if you ride in a normal, but still quick manner, keep oil off them, then they will last the life of the bike.

I think that the South Africans and their sandy areas would be the perfect place to slip the clutch and burn them out, just as is possible in Australia. The ceramic clutch would be the perfect thing for racing where one does slip a lot, wish we had those when I was racing.

Mick.
 
andy malton said:
Fitted a touratech ceramic clutch plate today to a mates 1150.
It was a bit of a major strip down,basically everything from where the engine joins the gearbox has to come off,all very straight forward stuff,but one thing I would do in future is to remove the clutch slave cylinder and take the rod out we decided to leave it in,it's about a foot long and once you pop the box off of the locating dowels you have to keep it dead level otherwise there is a chance you could bend it,but with two people it was easy to do.
Andy
don't look much for £300:(

Andy is a few tricks for the clutch exchange.
the first one very easy and important,is to get a pair of long bolts(8MM X 1,5 treat pitch) and cut their heads off,,that way you can use them as rails to extract the tranny out with out bending the rod,,taking the slave is a pain in the butt(you need to take the swing arm out)

I aslo develope a tecnic using the subframe as a "crane" .
that way you can do the job by your self and almost effordless
that you do is you strap the tranny to the subframe the whole idea is to keep the tranny in aligment(horizontal)the straps will move on a arch(swing) so you need to calculate the distances,,but is not really difficult.

I change about 7 clutches(5 on my different bikes) using this tecnic,and I can tell you it works really well.

other tips leave the rear wheel on so you can move(roll) the tranny as oppose to lift the tranny.

and a really big safety one,,ALWAYS strap the center stand, to something in the front,,the front wheel will do(plus will align the front end straight if that is what you need,)the pipes are fine if they are not hot,and the cross braze for the crash bars can be use too.

I am not proud of this one,,I did over work it,and for sure abuse it,but i did not have any other choice,,the rides I was doing where well be above what the GS can do.

228650-M.jpg
 
Rick Remind me not to invite you to any of my Barbeques, if that is a sample of your cooking? I'd say it was slightly overdone !!!
:firemth
 
Re: Re: Re: clutch

Mike O said:
So how do you break in a clutch?

Mike:confused:

You're to be very, very careful. You'll need to check with Ricky, but I think the moment you look at the clutch the things disengages....
 
andy malton said:
.
don't look much for £300:(

I was at the original supplier December in South-Africa where Touratech used to get their clutch plates from.

Only 1400 rand which is +- £100. The dude told me that Touratech now gets their plates from Turkey? Don't know how true that is but sure know where I am buying mine from ;)


Cheers
:gringo
 
Maverick' Any chance that you might be able to post the alternative ceramic clutch suppliers detals ? Pleeeeeeeeeeeeese!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:bow
 
Re: Re: fitted a touratech ceramic cluth today

maverick said:
I was at the original supplier December in South-Africa where Touratech used to get their clutch plates from.

Only 1400 rand which is +- £100. The dude told me that Touratech now gets their plates from Turkey? Don't know how true that is but sure know where I am buying mine from ;)


Cheers
:gringo

how come that does not surprise me.....

very typical actually.

the One I got from mike have "SACHS"logos all over..I don't know were is made..

I second that one about getting us to the sourse,,to the people that make them,,not to the people that market them.

can you get us the Number,,adress,,whatever....
 
Geezer said:
Rick Remind me not to invite you to any of my Barbeques, if that is a sample of your cooking? I'd say it was slightly overdone !!!
:firemth

actually I'm a great CooK,,can you tell..:confused:
and I make a awesome milkshake,,final drive milkshake that is,,and great transmition salad,,in fact I do NAPA Wines using My TKC's 80 as opose to the Old "using the naked feet method".

I do admite this time got a little Overdone,,but I think was more a execive heat issue,than anything else.

anyway I'm still really good at eating,,maybe a little to good.
252026-M.jpg

as you can tell by the Big Belly
 
Hi,

Sorry boyz have not browsed through this section in a while, will find out this week the details of the company. I had the business card and lost that since coming back but my father in law will get me the number. The dude is based in Johannesburgh. SACHS does sound very familiar and I think they also do loads of stuff for busses and trucks from braking to clutches.

Oops just found the link

http://www.toursforafrica.co.za/indexcontact.htm

The main guy there is Ray Muller. I was interested being an agent for his tours and products but work related issues eventually got me side tracked.

If you either phone or email him you should be able to get some decent prices. Please however do mention you did speak to me (Dirk Lottering - hopefully he will remember me) as any business man down in Africa would seek the oppuritunity to charge that little bit extra... ;)

Cheers
:gringo
 


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