Fitted my Hepco bars last nite

[BTBR]

Ordered them on Saturday from Motobins and they arrived Tuesday.
Same day took them to a local powder coating company to have them blasted and coated in silver rather than the 'orrible std black colour.
Collected them yesterday afternoon and fitted them last night with the help from some most excellant instructions found on this forum, well wriiten whoever it was?
Total fitting time was just 1 hour and that included putting away the tools afterwards as well.

Excellant service from Motobins, but top marks to the local company whose web site can be found here:-

http://www.redditchshotblasting.co.uk

Top quality service and a cracking finish, well done Dave at Redditch Shotblasting. If you need "anything" doing, give Dave a call, mention where you saw the plug for the company and he just might give you some discount........I said might BTW?

Anyway, here are the bars in silver...........

BTBR

 

[BTBR]

Another angle..............

 

[Stoney]

Same day took them to a local powder coating company to have them blasted and coated in silver rather than the 'orrible std black colour.

Eh? They come in silver as well as black anyway.

 

[Ned Flanders]

I thought H&B offered a silver finish as well as black.

Alan glad to read you sorted your SPIII problem. I've taken note.

Regards

Tim

 

[Pthagonal]

yes they do come in silver

i got them ages ago..

silver is a decent match too

pthag

 

[BTBR]

They must have stopped doing it then, coz when i rang Motobins on Saturday I asked for silver and was told that there were just two options:

Black

or

"Girlie" chrome (there words not mine)

So black it was................hence the powder coating excerise

BTBR

 

[BTBR]

I have just rung Motobins and they have confirmed that they do not list silver as an option, if they did do them, then they don't now?

Its either black or chrome as I was told last weekend.

So if there are some silver ones about then it would seem that Motobins have not supplied them.

However, if you want Hepco & Becker bars to fit the 1200GS then you can have the silver option.

BTBR

 

[Kropotkin]

You can get them in silver, part number is:

502908.0009

If you visit the H&B website, you can find them listed, but only in German. They are referred to as :2. Tank-/Motorschutzbügel silber

 

[MikeO]

The paint on H&B bars is very thin - repainting is a good choice anyway, IMO.

Not sure that powder coating is the way I'd go, given that they're the first point of contact in a drop (or, as originally happened to mine, in a scrape getting through a wooden gateway). Paint's easier to touch in - I'd be interested to hear how they stand up to a minor bash, as I'll probably get mine re-painted (or powder coated, if it's a reasonable alternative) when I give my Adv its post-trip makeover...

Mike

 

[BTBR]

The paint on H&B bars is very thin - repainting is a good choice anyway, IMO.

Not sure that powder coating is the way I'd go, given that they're the first point of contact in a drop (or, as originally happened to mine, in a scrape getting through a wooden gateway). Paint's easier to touch in - I'd be interested to hear how they stand up to a minor bash, as I'll probably get mine re-painted (or powder coated, if it's a reasonable alternative) when I give my Adv its post-trip makeover...

Mike

Mike

I must admit I was a bit unsure about powder coating as well, but after speaking to the guys there I was happy with my choice. I could have got them painted where I work but I think that this was the better option. At the end of the day, if you drop it no matter finish it has it will get marked.

Powder coating is so much harder than paint, therefore it "should" stand a little bit more abuse, hence that is why they powdercoat such things as alloy wheels/motorbike frames/swinging arms/kit car chassis etc etc as opposed to painting them.

Time will tell.................

BTBR

 

[MikeO]

Mike

I must admit I was a bit unsure about powder coating as well, but after speaking to the guys there I was happy with my choice. I could have got them painted where I work but I think that this was the better option. At the end of the day, if you drop it no matter finish it has it will get marked.

Powder coating is so much harder than paint, therefore it "should" stand a little bit more abuse, hence that is why they powdercoat such things as alloy wheels/motorbike frames/swinging arms/kit car chassis etc etc as opposed to painting them.

Time will tell.................

BTBR

I agree it's a tougher finish, but my reservations centre around the tendency for the whole surface to start to lift off once it's been punctured in any way. With paint you can sand it & re-paint it - as you say, time will tell & I'd be interested to hear your experience...

Mike

 

[Mooseles]

I agree it's a tougher finish, but my reservations centre around the tendency for the whole surface to start to lift off once it's been punctured in any way. With paint you can sand it & re-paint it - as you say, time will tell & I'd be interested to hear your experience...

Mike

In my experience, it may be a tougher finish, but after shotblasting, a pretreatment is required. "Flash rusting" of the substrate (which I presume is mild steel) can and does occur before painting. The powder would adhere far better to a pretreatment - such as an organic treatment, better than onto bare substrate or a zinc or iron phosphate pretreatment.

A pretreatment would also prevent corrosion "creep" - i.e iron oxide (rust) creeping under the paint surface.

Corrosion performance of a polyester powder onto mild steel, would be minimal - only hours in an acetic acid salt spray cabinet.

Polyester powder would perform better on aluminium, or galvanized - but of course, galvanized is what is known as a "sacrificial coating" - meaning the zinc (galvanized) is designed to rust (it goes white in colour) to protect the steel beneath.

And as for aluminium crash bars - well, they'd be lighter - but would they afford the same protection? - I doubt it.

Just don't puncture the paint film!

 

[Mooseles]

Mike

I must admit I was a bit unsure about powder coating as well, but after speaking to the guys there I was happy with my choice. I could have got them painted where I work but I think that this was the better option. At the end of the day, if you drop it no matter finish it has it will get marked.

Powder coating is so much harder than paint, therefore it "should" stand a little bit more abuse, hence that is why they powdercoat such things as alloy wheels/motorbike frames/swinging arms/kit car chassis etc etc as opposed to painting them.

Time will tell.................

BTBR

In my experience, it may be a tougher finish, but after shotblasting, a pretreatment is required. "Flash rusting" of the substrate (which I presume is mild steel) can and does occur before painting. The powder would adhere far better to a pretreatment - such as an organic treatment, better than onto bare substrate or a zinc or iron phosphate pretreatment.

A pretreatment would also prevent corrosion "creep" - i.e iron oxide (rust) creeping under the paint surface.

Corrosion performance of a polyester powder onto mild steel, would be minimal - only hours in an acetic acid salt spray cabinet.

Polyester powder would perform better on aluminium, or galvanized - but of course, galvanized is what is known as a "sacrificial coating" - meaning the zinc (galvanized) is designed to rust (it goes white in colour) to protect the steel beneath.

And as for aluminium crash bars - well, they'd be lighter - but would they afford the same protection? - I doubt it.

Just don't puncture the paint film!

 

[BTBR]

In my experience, it may be a tougher finish, but after shotblasting, a pretreatment is required. "Flash rusting" of the substrate (which I presume is mild steel) can and does occur before painting. The powder would adhere far better to a pretreatment - such as an organic treatment, better than onto bare substrate or a zinc or iron phosphate pretreatment.

A pretreatment would also prevent corrosion "creep" - i.e iron oxide (rust) creeping under the paint surface.

Corrosion performance of a polyester powder onto mild steel, would be minimal - only hours in an acetic acid salt spray cabinet.

Polyester powder would perform better on aluminium, or galvanized - but of course, galvanized is what is known as a "sacrificial coating" - meaning the zinc (galvanized) is designed to rust (it goes white in colour) to protect the steel beneath.

And as for aluminium crash bars - well, they'd be lighter - but would they afford the same protection? - I doubt it.

Just don't puncture the paint film!

Show off...........thats wot I was gonna say anyway

I think.............

BTBR

Anyway, I think that I should have said that they were stove enamelled not powder coated.................

 

[Gilson]

"Last night a HB saved my life...."

Hi Guys, just browsing and saw this posting....

Actually this morning I had a contact with a saab. Silly sod pulled out infront of me to turn right and instead of waiting for a gap int eh traffic, he came out half way and stopped...hmmm...didn't expect that so I hit him.

My right hand cylinder hit his driverside rear bumper and ripped it off! I only just, after advice from this site, added some H&B engine bars. It was well worth it as I only have light scuff marks to the cyclinder head and a few scratched on the new bars...money well spent I think...

I stopped and waited for a reaction and the Saab just kept going...oh well, he was worse off than me with part of the bumper unattached and my leg in A1 condition after being protected by the H&B bars..

They are not just for Engine protection! Buy some, fit them and look out for Fooking Ijits!

 

[orionrider]

Gorgous Bike!

bigtrailbikerider ,

That is a gorgous bike! Do you ride it? Mine likes to be coated in mud! Its the proudest when its dripping on th garage floor.