Fitting Autocm to 07 1200gs

[Peter04]

Hi Guys
I have tryed a search on this but cant find anything on here.
Can any one tell me the best/correct way to fit a bike powered Autocom system. I normaly use the 12v socket by the bottom of the seat but would like to wire it in permently as to be able to use the socket for other things.
When I had the 1150gsa i wired it to the rear light but I think i have read somewhere that this should not be done on the 1200gs.

Any help would be great

Peter

 

[Toad]

There are any many threads about this, so I'd suggest searching again for more detail.

In summary you want to wire it in to the back of the accessory socket by the seat. This will give you a switched feed and is the approved place that does not compromise your warranty.

HTH

 

[Bryn]

There are any many threads about this, so I'd suggest searching again for more detail.

In summary you want to wire it in to the back of the accessory socket by the seat. This will give you a switched feed and is the approved place that does not compromise your warranty.

HTH

+1...

Positive from the accessory socket feed, negative either to the battery or earth it on one of the front seat plastic mounting point nuts

Unit will then sit in the tool tray, fastened down with the tool strap....

 

[John Armstrong]

One other option is to use the canbus socket, if it's not already used for the GPS etc.

 

[Peter04]

Many thanks guys
ill do another search

Peter

 

[Deleted account AWRT]

+ 3 for the seat connection and sitting in the tool tray. Works a treat and is well protected from the elements

 

[tommygun]

Pardon the ignorance...what are the risks of connecting directly to the battery?

 

[andyclift]

Pardon the ignorance...what are the risks of connecting directly to the battery?

Live all the time and why would you want to when its only likely to be used when the bike is being used.

Go for back of accessory socket or maybe check out the big plug under the rear tray that plugs into BMW diagnostics. There is an ignition controlled 12v wire on that and its conveniently close to the tool tray.

 

[advancedbiker]

USE THE SOCKET UNDER THE SEAT

BMW do a very nice extention lead which plugs into the back of the socket under the seat. You can then take the positive feed from it. Always take the negative back to the battery. Should be no problems and then the autocom only comes on when the ignition is on.

 

[advancedbiker]

Try this - Found the forum link

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180464

 

[andyclift]

You don't need expensive adapter leads, just use a posi-tap. Recommended by Nippy Norman. Easy to use, reusable, no tools needed, easy to put on in confined spaces and 100% reliable.

http://www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Posi_Tap_Connectors.html

 

[GSband]

I went this way : I didn't want the autocom to interfere with charging the battery (even if some autocoms switch off after a certain lapse of time when no helmet is connected, see specific details of your autocom). This meant that a FIXED connection (to battery or to the back of the accesory socket) wasn't an option.

So I put a bmw plug onto autocom, and then put it into accessory socket under the seat; I don't need that socket for anything else, so...
When the battery needs charging - that's only when the bike sits in the cold garden shed in wintertime - I disconnect the autocom, simple enough.

The autocom box sits nicely in the tool tray.
Works for me !

 

[andyclift]

If you prefer a plug and socket OK but both my last and current GS had the Autocom hard wired with no battery charging problems and can't see a reason why it would.

Also Autocoms fitted by BMW dealer are hard wired and I doubt they would do it if it caused a charging problem.

 

[GSband]

With the sophisticated on board electronics I wouldn't automatically presume that BMW dealers know what they're doing. I've found they don't always understand how the electronics behave. And I'm sure they're not Autocom pros.

Autocom prescribes their boxes to be wired onto rear light, indicating they like the current being shut off when the bike is not in use. If autocom wants their box being shut off I'm not going to hard wire it to battery. Connecting the box to the rear light raises the question if the on board electronics accept a higher amp draw at rear light, or will conclude something is faulty, and make you visit your dealer. So I'm not hard wiring the box to rear light.

The advantage of hard wiring it to accessory socket is that the socket shuts off a couple of minutes after the bike has been turned off. Sounds good as a solution.

But then there's a slight possibility of the autocom taking up current while charging. In order to charge with the BMW charger on accessory socket, you first have to turn key so that bike switches on, then connect bmw charger, turn charger on, turn bike off (see manual). In this procedure the autocom box will come alive, if you've hard wired it onto accessory socket.
This is exactly how I charge my bike, so you can see why I've decided NOT to hard wire the autocom to the accessory socket.

Perhaps the solution is : hard wire the autocom box to accessory socket, and charge the bike directly to battery.

Anyway, with all this unclarity the use of a plug instead of hard wiring onto battery or accessory socket or rear light eliminates all possible worries.
That was my goal.

 

[andyclift]

Perhaps the solution is : hard wire the autocom box to accessory socket

Yes that is the solution - and charge the bike as normal. I think you are making the bike's electrical system more sophisticated than it is. Maybe dealers are not experts in Autocom, although mine has been selling and fitting it for years, but they do know their bikes and do have a direct line to BMW Motorrad. I am sure that if wiring a very low draw device to the accessory socket was a problem BMW Motorrad would have made it very clear to dealers not to do it.

 

[tanneman]

I'm wondering if you can connect the autocom to a fusebox that is hardwired to the battery and have the supply to fusebox switched with a autoswitch or simmilar. It means that any accesories that is fitted afterwards only needs to be connected to the fusebox and the battery and canbus electronics is protected. So when you start up the bike there is no extra current draw and it saves the battery as well when it's low on charge. Is it feasible? Maybe not the prefered method.

 

[Jedmeister]

I'm wondering if you can connect the autocom to a fusebox that is hardwired to the battery and have the supply to fusebox switched with a autoswitch or simmilar. It means that any accesories that is fitted afterwards only needs to be connected to the fusebox and the battery and canbus electronics is protected. So when you start up the bike there is no extra current draw and it saves the battery as well when it's low on charge. Is it feasible? Maybe not the prefered method.

That's exactly how mine is wired and works a treat The relay in the fuseboard is powered off the underseat accessory socket since this is switched. I Bought a Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans so you can choose whether the circuits out of the block are switched or always live and it works very well. The only thing to bear in mind is fitting an inline fuse to the feed of the block as close to the battery terminal as possible - that way, if there is a short, the fuse will blow and the bike won't catch fire

BTW - Both the Fuze Block and the Autocom fit in the tool tray but will not work with a lowered seat.