Fitting OEM spotlights?

JerseyNeil

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I am toying with investing in a set of the BMW OEM spotlights for my 2010 GS.
I see from the downloadable fitting instructions that the tank and associated panels have to be removed to plug the lights into the bike.
Has anyone done this themselves? If so how difficult is it?

I'm a pretty basic diy mechanic so would this be within my abilities?

I appreciate any advice.

Neil
 
I fitted a pair to mine, I simply ran a fused cable directly from the battery to the relay. The rest was simply plug & play! I also upgrade the bulbs to HID's so had more stuff than usual to find a home for.
 
You need a GSA light bar or you can you can get an aftermarket light bar for the GS

The GSA uses a separate fuse for each light in a fuse box under the left-hand fuel tank cover. They do not use the canbus system.

I find with the latest generation LED bulbs or HID you really don't need the dip beam format OEM spot lights. You will however find the main beam is weak so long range spot lamps can be a good thing. As long as they are single mode (non flashing) they can be wired to work with main beam on full power or dimmed with dipped beam.
 
vanilla gs use different mounts by the indicators and not the gsa bar,the bm mounts are very good
 
Yes I'm looking at getting the whole kit from Mot24 which includes the brackets and everything. I'm happy with mounting them etc. it's the removal of tank and stuff to plug them in that I'm worried about.

Neil
 
HIDs put out a whiter light with 3x the lumens of a 50 watt halogen. LEDs will be at least as good and lower cost. You probably wont even notice the OEM spots with that lot blasting away.
 
The tank will be a few wires and pipes to unplug and 2 main bolts at the sides, the oem wiring has a t harness that goes from under the engine ecu down to the frame above the left cylinder,
which is a fuse holder and accessible in its location then forward to the lights,
the switch harness plugs into the same plate under the engine ecu, this has a relay socket underneath where you fit an additional relay to a pre populated socket next to the one already there , its more simple than it sounds, many bikes don't need the lights programming to the bsi which controls power to the relay, but its a case of fit and try to know,
Roamer
 
Thanks Roamer so not impossible for someone with basic skills and common sense.
Now do I really want to spend lots of money.................
 
Do you have a link for the lights? that's my next project!

Thanks

Steve
 
The OEM "auxiliary headlamps" give a short range dipped beam spread. They are fine with a 50W halogen in the dipped headlight.

When you put a high power LED or HID in the headlight the OEM lamps become redundant.

The OEM main beam is not separated enough from the dip beam so to get good main beam distance you end up dazzling people with the dipped set to high. My fix was to put an HID in the main beam along with two powerful LED spots. These are long range narrow angle. Definitely not floods. I now have daylight type lighting on unlit roads.

These are white but they are available if other colours.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DURITE-Wh...493808?hash=item1a08d78d30:g:hycAAMXQoiJRimtM
 
Neil,

I am in the same situation as you. I want to fit spotlights to increase road presence more than lighting the way. I have looked at a number of sites and the old Haynes manual isn't much help. I don't suppose you have come across a photo instruction to remove the fuel tank? Also does anyone know if you need some sort of transformer to run LEDs from a 12v battery? Sorry to hijack your thread...
 
These are what I have. So cheap they were worth a punt.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UNHO-Motorcycle-Headlight-Spotlight-Motorbike/dp/B00YXAJ1CG

I wanted to have them on full power with main beam and low power on dipped beam via an LED dimmer. However I have not been able to make the dimmer work so for now they are main beam only. They are well focussed and VERY powerful at long range.

I made a U shape bracket to replicate the OEM light brackets. The brackets supplied with the lights will be fine for a plain tube mounting bar..
 


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