flat rack for a para ?

Mike Wilkins

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I know they're naff but they're useful, and I would like to have my Honda QR top box transferrable between bikes. The xrv base plate needs to be on a flat surface and the stock rack kicks up at the rear.
Can anyone recommend a flat aftermarket rack for a para - I've seen the H & B one but are there others ?
 
I know they're naff but they're useful, and I would like to have my Honda QR top box transferrable between bikes. The xrv base plate needs to be on a flat surface and the stock rack kicks up at the rear.
Can anyone recommend a flat aftermarket rack for a para - I've seen the H & B one but are there others ?

A sure sign of aging was when I looked at the top box on my new to me bike and thought "hmmm that'll be handy" :rob :rob :D
 
have a look at the one from henderson precision from the states.
 
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Thanks Abrasion that looks perfect but pricey. I think I'll show a pic to my local engineering co to see if they can come up with similar.
Fayes I know what you mean but its very very handy !! My Africa came with one I would never have bought one but last summer used it all the time when working away from home.
You need to think of it as a little suitcase and dump it in your room when reach your destination then go out on the bike without it.
Whats the alternative my non dual sport buddies would take the piss incessantly if I had tin boxes (they're now cliched like harleys and chaps).
My soft panniers are a faff with straps and velcro and if they're empty flap about like cnuts. Topbox convery me
 
Certainly cop a bit from mates until I open the top box and take out the puncture repair kit, first aid kit, maps, race tape or whatever else they didn't bring on their sports bikes :D
 
Problem with hard boxes on a off roader is everything inside gets shaken to bits unless it is strapped down / wrapped/ separated. And you cant squueeze a bit more in - it either shuts or it doest.

A rack and a bag work much better for me, , most have a pop top which can be pressed into action if required , and pouches on the outside for the slime pump etc that go on every trip.

But back to the origonal post -to get a box on my GS I just bolted a bit of black painted 45 x 200 mm lumber about 200 mm long to the GS rack,and screwed the mounting plate to that.

Then , when the stock latch got a bit loose, which didnt take long , I screwed down through the bottom of the box onto the timber to make certain the box wasnt bouncing along the road behind me.

The timber seems to dampen the vibrations out too - a mount plate which isnt backed up with something solid can vibrate into a fracture PDQ too - DAHIK
 
On the R75/7 I have got, is a givi system for standard BMW panniers plus the rear rack / top box mount...... [which I will never use...]
I have a spare set of BMW racks which I could put on instead, therefore at WeeKend have a look, might "Suit you sir":thumb2
I'll look if Sids got a pic..:)
He has :thumb
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2673599&postcount=1
 
That's a tidy job :thumb

Anyone have clues on the best way to cut 1-3mm aluminium at home? have achieved some very ordinary results so far :(

Hacksaws and files - long winded and tedious but you can get a decent finish with some time and effort. I've made all sorts of stuff from stainless and aluminium this way (although 2.5mm stainless was a right pain in the butt to work). The hardest thing would be getting nice bends on the down-turned edges that the one on ADV has (although you could probably dispense with them). I'd be using at least 3mm aluminium for that rack.

The nice way is to draw it up and get it laser or waterjet cut - can be pricey for one-off's though (unless you're friendly with a shop that has such a machine).

If you need it drawing let me know - I'd be happy to draw it on CAD and email the dxf file to you.
 
I have a good Metabo variable speed and variable oscillation jig saw, and with the correct fine metal blade and a bit patience it is fine on aluminium- haven't tried it on stainless

The problem with stainless is that it work hardens, so a slow speed and continuous cutting is the trick - not too hard with a drill but a bit harder with a hack saw.

The blade works next door to my work has a large 20 head Laser profile cutter which works either from CAD or a template, and they cut from our steel using our templates for about $1- a piece!
 
Just been thinking - have you thought of using Lexan polycarbonate?

It's easy to work (drill well, cuts like a dream with a sharp wood type jigsaw blade and files / sands easily) and is very tough (literally bulletproof). I've used 3mm and 8mm thicknesses for some bits and pieces - I would think 8mm would be ideal.

Make sure you get proper 'Lexan' branded stuff though - not all polycarbonate plastics are the same.
 
rack

Thanks Proff - if I'm not sorted by then could well be interested.
Bmwrsnut - I saw that and told him I would have one if he sells them. Think I would beef up the mountings though - could use rubber lined pipe clamps on the oem rack.
Mattw - that would be an interesting way to do it
 


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