Flying Snakes and the kindness of strangers...

[Edventure]

Accra

This has been the toughest day so far. The road deteriorates rapidly once out of Kumasi. There would be a few miles of good tarmac then just rocks and sand. I am thankful it’s not raining or these stretches would be a real struggle. I almost can’t believe it when coaches and lorries go thundering past. Then of course you catch up with them again with a blown out tyre or some other mechanical problem. This is the main route between Ghana’s two largest cities!! I plough on slowly. I cross one rough stretch and there is a bang from the rear wheel. Shit! Puncture. I get off but it’s only the rear mudguard. This time it’s been ripped right off. I toss it in a ditch. By the time I reach the outskirts of Accra I am feeling weak as a kitten, my guts hurt and I’m feeling dizzy. Just to top it off the road disappears completely. They are building a new road and while that’s under construction you just drive any way you can. The stretch that drivers are using turns into deep mud. I just want to get off the bike and weep. It’s 2:00pm now and I know I have to get to the Nigerian embassy before 3:00 if I have any chance of getting my visa today. I have no idea where the Nigerian embassy is. I phone a mate at home to try and get GPS co-ordinates which I try to follow but they are wrong. The traffic is horrendous, it’s bloody hot and my sense of humour evaporates in the heat. I stop to ask directions several times but no joy. Eventually I reach the site of the embassy. They have moved. I get their phone number and call them. They tell me the new address and give me the news that even if I made to them today I’m too late. The earliest I can now get a visa is Tuesday. The chap suggests that I can get one in Benin which is the next country on my trip after Togo. I just want to get off the bike now and lie down somewhere cool. I head for the Novotel I’ve seen signs for. I now need to work out a plan…..

 

[Slowdown]

You need a Baldrick - who has a cunning plan!

My wife asked if you can bring back a case of that anti-flatuence stuff.

Take care!

 

[Captain Colonial]

Hi Ed, this is Georgina. Your trip sounds really cool i want to go on one with dad.

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Ed, just back from a great meal at a pub we both know and heard you were doing this report. Read it all in one go! Great stuff, good to find out how you were getting on. What an adventure, excellent writeup, and brilliant pictures.

When you are back, seems a good idea to have a meet at a local pub to fill in the gaps in the story and see the rest of the photos.

Keep safe, but continue to enjoy it. Jim

 

[majorbumsore]

Ed, just back from a great meal at a pub we both know and heard you were doing this report. Read it all in one go! Great stuff, good to find out how you were getting on. What an adventure, excellent writeup, and brilliant pictures.

When you are back, seems a good idea to have a meet at a local pub to fill in the gaps in the story and see the rest of the photos.

Keep safe, but continue to enjoy it. Jim

I'd ride down from yorkshire just to buy you a beer ED,
I cant work out if the feeling I get reading your report is pure envy or wether i hate you for having the guts to do what we all want to do, but make excusses why we 'cant'.
I bet ewan would want to play your part in the film version when it comes out.
Keep it coming. please.

 

[bardicastle]

just got back from my rideout to essex "not quite as far as africa" and AAAAHHHHHH no write up , bloody hell i look forward all day for this what's going on? are you o.k? has your bottom stopped being sick??

 

[Edventure]

I'm fine thanks

Spent yesterday chilling down by the beach at a place called Big Milly's backyard in Kokrobite. It's about 30kms out of Accra. It's quite basic in terms of accommodation and cheap as well. The downsides were that there were a fair few backpackers which of course attracts the hustlers. The upsides were good food and cold beer! After 3 weeks on the road meeting genuine people I really couldn't be bothered with people hassling you and trying to sell you bits of tat.

My main dilemma now is how to get the bike home. Before setting off I checked airfreight costs out of South Africa and they were very reasonable, £600 - £800. I foolishly thought it would be the same or cheaper from West Africa but since checking with freight forwarders in UK and Nigeria it seems that a) no-one seems to be that interested in doing it and b) if they will do it, it's going to cost the best part of £2K, which I can't see myself paying.

There's not a lot I can do about it till Tues as there is a public holiday here on Monday. The other concern I have is about running out of time, I'm so near to Nigeria now it would be a shame not to get there but I really need to be home by the first week of June. Friday's nightmares on the roads and not getting the Nigerian visa have put me back 4 days. I'm trying not to get too stressed and will see what Tues brings.

I'll do some bike maintenance tomorrow, a couple of screws have disappeared so far so I guess I need to go round the bike and check the important ones. I also have the "brake failure" light coming on a lot so need to check out what's causing that.

 

[GreatScott]

My main dilemma now is how to get the bike home. Before setting off I checked airfreight costs out of South Africa and they were very reasonable, £600 - £800. I foolishly thought it would be the same or cheaper from West Africa but since checking with freight forwarders in UK and Nigeria it seems that a) no-one seems to be that interested in doing it and b) if they will do it, it's going to cost the best part of £2K, which I can't see myself paying.

Just keep going to South Africa!! You don't really want to return to work do you ?

 

[Monsieur]

Great stuff - I'm hooked

 

[Zareeba]

Ed, keep pushing south dude. It cold and wet in the UK. As mention, I'll ship mine up to Luanda and meet you there, and we'll push south for cape town together. Even your lovely lady gave the green light for this when we had dinner with her last week.

 

[Edventure]

If only.....

Ed, keep pushing south dude. It cold and wet in the UK. As mention, I'll ship mine up to Luanda and meet you there, and we'll push south for cape town together. Even your lovely lady gave the green light for this when we had dinner with her last week.

Mike, would love to but I reckon she would kill me!!

Look forward to seeing you guys down in Jo'burg soon.

Ed

 

[STUBBS]

just re read this please keep posting

 

[Edventure]

What worked and what didn't

So while I’m kicking my heels in Accra I thought I’d list what worked, what didn’t and what else I learnt.

By and large the people I’ve met so far have been fantastic. I would never have imagined encountering so much generosity and warmth from people who have so little.

Border crossings; you can get a long way on a smile and a handshake. Not nearly as hard as I thought.

Fuel; fill up every chance you get. Mauritania is a nightmare for fuel.

It’s not that expensive to do! So far I have averaged spending £50 a day, that includes fuel, food and hotel though you could easily blow that by staying in top end hotels.

Kit used:

1. The bike, ’07 1200 GSA, has been absolutely brilliant. It’s not missed a beat even though it’s taken a hammering over some rough terrain. Brake warning light comes on but brakes still work fine. The trip has been 5000 miles so far and I’ve not needed to top up the oil at all.

2. Shocks, fitted Wilbers, they have worked very well

3. BMW panniers, very handy for locking stuff away safely when walking around.

4. BMW tankbag, crap design, pain to put on and take off plus it moves around too much when negotiating rough stuff.

5. BMW Santiago suit, had it for 2 years, good in Europe but too hot in Africa.

6. BMW Santiago boots; great boots, very comfortable but feet sweat a lot in this climate

7. Ortlieb dry bags, great, easy to use and waterproof.

8. Fitch fuel catalyst from Fuel Harmonics, a drop in the tank gizmo, has increased range/decreased fuel consumption by between 7 – 10%. Brilliant bit of kit.

9. Tyres; started trip on fairly worn Conti Trail Attacks, they lasted way longer than I thought they would and performed really well. Fitted TKC’s in Bamako and they have been great on road and off.

10. Exhaust; fitted Keihan headers to take out the Cat, sounds great and no probs.

11. Garmin Zumo 550, worked well and kept me on track.

12. Silk sleeping bag liner; very handy for some of the dodgier establishments

What I would do differently next time

I took way too much kit. The old hands say to lay out all the kit you plan to take and then discard half of it! The problem I had was knowing which half to leave behind so I took it all!
One pannier was filled with tools and spares. I didn’t actually need to open it once. I packed a lot of camping gear, sleeping bag was a waste of time and too bulky and didn’t use it at all, way too hot. Cooking gear, too much and never used it.

Oh, lastly, get my return shipping sorted before leaving home!!

 

[gary-postman]

As stated by many others from this site - Well done, keep the posts coming. I wish you safe journey and keep well. I hope one day to be able to meet you, shake your hand and tell my friends that I met you.
Best wishes.
Gary

 

[chrishb4]

+1. A great read...respect!!!

 

[Zareeba]

Re: What worked and what didn't

Ed, good feedback on do's and dont's. Bummer about the Nigerian visa delay, hope you get it sorted today. We know how much you want to get to Port Harcourt. Chin up and balls to the wall mate.

I cant help much on the shipping part in Nigeria, but found this website via Google and I filled in the online request for quotation. If I hear back I'll ping you.
http://www.moveme.co.uk/International_Car_Auto_Shipping_US_Overseas_To/Nigeria.com.htm

Also spoke with a company called Elite Shipping in the UK, the chap will call me back.

But if you want to ship it to SA or via SA, feel free to use my Joburg address if need be. (SMS me and I'll send it to you). I'm still in the US, but back in SA next Monday (1st June).

Good luck dude.

 

[Edventure]

All gone Pete Tong!!

Well, it’s all gone a bit pear shaped. After seeing more trouble in Nigeria on the news I spoke to the British Consulate here in Ghana and asked them about the situation. They said most emphatically that I should not even consider travelling to Port Harcourt by road. They say that even if you fly there it would be against their advice and basically you would be on your own.

So with all that considered I have decided to fly back from Ghana. I must admit I feel very disappointed; Nigeria is only a day and half’s ride from here. So near and yet so far!

I went down to the airport in Accra this morning and started checking out freight prices. I managed to get a price of $1100 from BA which even with customs charges etc is less than half what I was quoted to fly out of Nigeria.
So as I write this the bike is on a pallet waiting for tonight’s flight to London. I fly out tomorrow night. It’s an odd feeling leaving my bike after being on it for nearly a month. Feels like my legs are missing!


Thank you all for sharing my journey, it’s been a great adventure.

 

[Mandylicious]

Sorry to hear your journey had to be cut short so close to where you had travelled to be. I've enjoyed following your trip and thanks for sharing

 

[Edventure]

Until the next time........

Seen in Burkina Faso...until the next time!!

 

[Decster]

What a cracking journey.

Don't be hard on yerself...live to fight another day

I hope that the crate does not fall of the fork lift.

Hope you can post some more pics and words to add what was is a great Ride Reppoprt when you get time after getting back