Fording aftermath - knackered bevel box?

DrAlf

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Following on from my ford antics last weekend, I've just drained the oil on both the gearbox and bevel box. The gearbox oil came out like golden honey - which is good, the bevel box oil came out like grey sludge - not so good.

I'm about to replace both with fully synthetic super expensive gearbox oil, question is have I done any damage to the bevel box?

What reckons you lot?

As always, ta in advance.

Alf
 
hiya....the dealer in auckland when i was there changed the diff oil for expensive `Spectro` synthetic during the paralever bearing replacement........ 6000km later the final drive bearing collapsed.

maybe it`s not connected but seeing as you already have a little sludge perhaps it`s an early indication of bearing failure.

it`s easy enough to pull the cover off ( 8 x 7mm allen bolts) and inspect the bearing more closely.

as you may know many bikes have suffered from bearing problems. as a further note i am now using standard 90EP gear oil of good quality, i feel more confident with it after one bearing failure. you can change the oil every 5000km for inspection and increased confidence.

hope all goes well for you.
 
Stories of FDs failing in the middle of Patagonia, or Tunisia are scary. Typically, the main bearing fails fails in some God-forsaken place, causing the rear wheel to wobble with a near loss of control, the seal is shredded, and gear oil covers the rear wheel. End of vacation/adventure.

I have been wondering why BMW would continue using such a pitiful wheel bearing on most of its line for some 10 or more years. On top of that, there is the obvious feel that BMW holds us in contept for these failures. Well, from my single experience of a FD failure, perhaps I am begining to understand their point of view.

Here is the test that I recommend: lift the back of the bike with your left hand and spin the rear wheel with your right. Mine felt more like a patio screen door, while a good FD feels like a damped refrigerator door. I rode like that for some 1500 miles.

By the time I replaced the bearing, there was still no free play whatsoever. I found some flakes on the magnetic drain plug, a severely pitted section on the outer race, and one pittted ball. I am sure that my FD could have gone for another 1000 miles before being noticeable while riding. My bike had 42,750 miles, and I was using Redline Shockproof Heavy gear oil.

Morale of the story? Check your FD for smoothness and free play every time you wash it. Bearing take a long time to disintegrate. The bearing replacement takes 2-3 hours, and the bearing costs about $110. Steptoe can even do it on the side of the road with basic tools. The only difficulty I had was with the removal of the old bearing: there is not enough room for a normal bearing puller. I used a pair of thick chisels and a mallet, but I think Steptoe can do it with tire irons. (Steptoe, can you tell us how you do it?) One trick Steptoe does give us is that he heats the new bearing on the exhaust so that it drops in without the need of a press.

I chose not to replace anything else because it all looked perfect. The gears and even the seal looked brand new. Here are the pictures of the flakes I found and my failed bearing:
Flakes.jpg

pitted.jpg
 
It would be a tad subversive to hint that a manufacturer or a dealer would do something deliberately wrong in order to secure future rectification work,but when the bevel bearing failed on my Airhead,I contacted the bearing supplier our factory uses as the usual BMW suppliers were quoting horrendous prices,and the bearing supplier informed me that there are a few different speed/load/heat range markings for the same size bearing,so it may be possible that some bikes have the 'wrong' bearing....
 
Are oilhead FD bearings standard or some BWM specials?

The standard bearings are at least 3X cheaper than "factory ones", and do the job 1:1 whather in quality or reliability.

Any one knows if there's standard equivalent to oilhead final drive bearings or only BM makes this size???
 
The oilhead FD wheel bearing is the following:

Description: GROOVED BALL BEARING
Size: 85X120X18
BMW Part No.: 33121242210
Bearing type: 61917/C3
Manufacturer: FAG Germany

I also found a second BMW part number that appears to be for the same bearing, but I could not confirm it: 33121468899. Also, there seem to be bearings with 17 balls, and others with 19 balls.
 
Is there any metallic contamination of the oil you have removed? The sludge could easily be water contaminating the oil. ......don't just put super expensive oil in thinking that will cure any problem. You have to thoroughly flush any water out of the final drive, so maybe a quick oil change of two, checking the oil you drop out.
HENRY
 
Here's a question - I'd guess Steptoe will know the answer to.

Can this type of bearing be replaced using a roller type? It strikes me that the ball type bearing is less durable than the roller or needle roller if you prefer to call it that.

On VFR's the steering head bearing is a known weak point, and is often replaced using a taper roller bearing instead of a ball type, so I see no reason why the same can't be done here? Taper bearings are much much stronger and durable as far as I know as they spread the load/shock over a much greater area.

Comments anyone?
 
Taper roller/needle bearings aren`t high speed/load capable in the way that precision ball bearings are.
 
Muppet said:

Can this type of bearing be replaced using a roller type? It strikes me that the ball type bearing is less durable than the roller or needle roller if you prefer to call it that.

No.

Bm have been using this same bearing for a few decades. Oil heads, airheads and slush heads. All the same bearing doing the same job. Don't much with it.

The sluge to me would incidate water in the oil. I'd be changing it for normal 80/90 hypoid oil. And I'd be letting the bike reach operating tempreature too - none of thse short comuter trips - you want to get some heat to warm up the water/oil. Thne I'd change the oil again - if it comes out grey I'd repeat untill it comes out good.
 
Arbreacames said:
The oilhead FD wheel bearing is the following:

Description: GROOVED BALL BEARING
Size: 85X120X18
BMW Part No.: 33121242210
Bearing type: 61917/C3
Manufacturer: FAG Germany

I also found a second BMW part number that appears to be for the same bearing, but I could not confirm it: 33121468899. Also, there seem to be bearings with 17 balls, and others with 19 balls.

What's the cost of them, anyone knows?

Thinkin' taking one spare with me on travelling... I guess i should take the seals too (the bigger one+the smaller one for FD shaft input)?
 
Another question :)

Is the final drive on the 1200 sealed? I know the older bikes have a breather pipe that water can enter through.

Should I be draining the drive on my 1200 to check for water?
 
i was just looking at some oil seal failure analysis stuff for work today.

one fact stuck in my head

6% water content in oil will reduce bearing life by 83% !!

check your oil
 


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