front axle bolt seized??

poshbuilder

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Am having a nightmare trying to get the front wheel off my 2007 GSA - brake calipers off, pinch bolt out, spindle key used and still axle bolt won't budge. Even with a good sized bar on it. Plenty of penetrating oil used etc etc.....

So, a). am I missing something, and b). any thoughts as to how I can sort it please?

I'm worried that by really giving it some force on the bar it might damage the axle (or at best snap the socket tool). Have read about possible corrosion and having to drill the bolt out!?! Need to change discs pronto in order to MoT it......

Thanks all in advance
 
A long bar facing left (towards the bike) and pressing down on the bar is the most effective. Hitting the bar with a lump hammer while it is pressed down should shock the threads free. threads are in the LH fork leg.
I would temporarily replace calipers on loose bolts so the wheel movement does not lead to chipped paint.
 
The axle is only nipped up with one pinch bolt on the offside fork leg

There's something seriously wrong here either previously overtightend or seized

My money is on overtightend

When/who refitted the wheel last?
 
Try a heat gun on the left side casting shield the wheel bearing seal with tinfoil,give it plenty of heat and ideally have someone undoing the axle, you should feel it go,
The other option is supercrack sold by euro car parts it's a freeze release aerosol, works on corrosion well without heat,,
They can be tight, you will need a long bar,, and plenty of effort,
I do coppaslip the threads , and axle sleeve where they contact the aluminium,
I know there is a change to torque settings but having this carry on when on the road could be a hassle if you needed a tyres ,
 
Am having a nightmare trying to get the front wheel off my 2007 GSA - brake calipers off, pinch bolt out, spindle key used and still axle bolt won't budge. Even with a good sized bar on it. Plenty of penetrating oil used etc etc.....

So, a). am I missing something, and b). any thoughts as to how I can sort it please?

I'm worried that by really giving it some force on the bar it might damage the axle (or at best snap the socket tool). Have read about possible corrosion and having to drill the bolt out!?! Need to change discs pronto in order to MoT it......

Thanks all in advance

Slacken axle clamping screw
Remove quick-release axle with hexagon (No. 36 3 691).
Roll the front wheel forward to remove.
Remove spacing bushing (3) from the wheel hub.

When fitting 50nm for axle and 19nm for the clamp bolt
Bounce the forks a few times before tightening it all up
 
Just thought if you have the multi tool which is double ended which sticks out on a few steps, I cut it down to get the biggest short socket close to the axle,
This stops it putting a downward force on the tool,and you won't need the other sizes,
If or when you have it all close , as bendy says have the knuckle bar to your left , and with steering lock on stomp your foot full body weight on bar,
Ideally have someone to steady the bike,,
They go in at 50 nm and need much more to release,
 
I haven't had the front wheel off in the year I've owned the bike - can only think it was the last garage or owner that may have overtightend it?
 
Will give it a bit more grunt and with another set of hands we'll see how things go...

I'd heard the 'Supercrack' freezable aerosol stuff works quite well so will try that if no joy

Thankyou all for the sound advice - will keep you posted
 
Try a kettle of boiling water over the left/threaded side. Should be enough to expand the alloy on the leg to allow you to get it undone.
 
Don't fear of using lots of effort, the axle just nips up much tighter than you expect,
If the dealer did it to 50 you will have to jump on the bar,
The axle is strong, just make sure the socket is close to the axle as I mentioned,
 
Get it hot.
It may have been loctited.
If something like 270 has been put on there it wont budge without plenty of heat.
My son brought his SV650 to me to put a chain and sprockets on.
Hes into power lifting so when he said he couldn't undo his front sprocket nut with a big bar I thought something might be amiss.
With a strong light on there I could see the loctite residue.
Got it nice and hot and undid no problem. Good luck.:thumb
 
Thanks Roamer, it took a bit of freeze spray from Halfords and a good 'wrench of faith' and it slowly started to undo. No seizure or corrosion just done up way too tight by whoever. New discs on, new pads too. All torqued up as per handbook. Nice! Thanks so much for your help, and indeed to everyone else that offered advice. Support much appreciated
 
From memory there are two axle pinch bolts. But could be wrong.

Use a long lever on the axle. Plenty of force.
 
Thanks Roamer, it took a bit of freeze spray from Halfords and a good 'wrench of faith' and it slowly started to undo. No seizure or corrosion just done up way too tight by whoever. New discs on, new pads too. All torqued up as per handbook. Nice! Thanks so much for your help, and indeed to everyone else that offered advice. Support much appreciated

Good news , dont be surprised if it's tight next time,
 
I use copper grease on the threads and don't go mad with the torque wrench. The grease will reduce the torque required but I have no idea what factor to apply so I do it up tight but don't keep going until it's solid. Common sense really.

I tighten the pinch bolt to the correct torque and don't use grease on the spindle shank so its highly unlikely to shake loose. It's never shown any signs of giving trouble.

Rear wheel I always torque wrench the bolts' They HAVE to be all the same and TBH the correct torque is not really as tight as could be done with an ordinary ratchet handle.
 


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