Front Cover Corrosion

[jim123]

My 2006 GS has the dreaded corrosion behind the front cover. After I rub down the corrosion I want to treat the metal to neutralise any residual rot.

Can somebody advise on the best treatment for the bare metal. Also primer and topcoat suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[JPR]

OK then Jim.
There are several threads on here dealing with this problem.
Just do a search.
Myself,I used a Dremel type tool to get rid of all the crap,then a surface cleaner.(Halfords)
U-Pol Acid#8 Etch Primer
Wurth Wheel Silver,
Then Wurth Lacquer Spray Special.
Three years on ,still perfect.
Jim

 

[Bendy toy]

@JPR is spot on. Clean the crud with a Dremel then clean with Cillit Bank to dissolve corrosion in the pitted ares. Then etch prim and whatever top coat you like.

If you want it 100% (close anyway) take cover off and get it powder coated all over including joint face. But it will need a chemical strip to remove the paint. All very nice but bike will be off the road for quite a while.

 

[GrumpyTwo]

Finished mine today

Just finished restoring my front cover today and done exactly as above except it was so badly pitted I had to use an epoxy to fill the holes.
I'm going to buy a second hand one and have it powder coated, then I'll change it come the winter.

 

[jim123]

Thanks

Thanks Guys for your advice. Looks like I have a project for the Bank Holiday!

 

[GrumpyTwo]

I found this useful http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.tvjgzrvwgqsvkwoe&pageId=739661 and the forum link that's half way down the page.
Good luck, it is messy and a right pain to do but the results are worth while.

 

[Bendy toy]

A very interesting website. However I suspect simply repainting the timing gear cover will only postpone the problems. CJ Ward (Burton on Trent) shot blast the metal use etch primer on alloy or zinc passivate on steel and then powder coat. Their metallic powder finishes don't look that good on engine cases. So they recommend flatting the finish and spray paint over the top to match the engine. If required they flat the finish with a gentle shot blast.

For jobs like the timing cover I would powder coat the whole thing including joint flanges and bolt holes. There are no locating pins so a 100% coat avoids new corrosion getting under the edges. I might even use washers to protect the finish.

A good product to stop/absorb the timing noise is a layer of sorbothane. Its not cheap but wont absorb water and sticks well with contact adhesive or super glues.

 

[GrumpyTwo]

Completly agree with Mr Bendy Toy, powder coating is the way to go. My cover is very pitted so I have filled it, flattened it, primed and painted it, Hopefuly it will last until the winter when I plan to buy a secondhand cover and have it powdercoated.

 

[Bendy toy]

The biggest snag with electrostatic powder coatings is finding a suitable filler. Areas that are not electrically conductive wont get coated. Special fillers are available (e.g. Lab Metal) but they are about £50 a pot plus thinners and last only about 1 year. Hardly the most econmical option for one or two parts.

 

[Mark Hooton]

Just a suggestion

Pal, not because I want to sell you anything (honest) but the following is a good bit of kit to stop the problem reoccuring - you can use anything similar - its just to protect that all important edge of the engine.

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Cover fitted by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[Bendy toy]

Pal, not because I want to sell you anything (honest) but the following is a good bit of kit to stop the problem reoccuring - you can use anything similar - its just to protect that all important edge of the engine.

[/url]
Cover fitted by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]

Dead right and a guard could be made from woven mesh or sheet metal like this. My bike was generally well looked after but didnt even have a fender extender so the cover got pebble-dashed. At least I cleaned off the bubbling paint before the metal was too badly pitted.