front engine cover

[malcolmkaty]

Hi all
I am looking to repaint the front cover and think it will be better to remove it and get cleaned up and powder coated or painted ,had a look the Haynes manual and looks like you need special tools to fit the crank seal to protech the lip on it ,On other bikes I have had with usd forks you could use thin plastic over the bushes to slide the seals without damage ,I am new to these engines so anybody got hints or tips as the Haynes makes it look a bit of a pain
thanks Malcolm

 

[Bendy toy]

Wrap the shaft with thick polythene bag plastic and PVC tape. Once the cover is back on remove the tape and pull out the plastic.

Powder coat is your best option. Avoid the better looking low temperature stove enamel - its more likely to stone chip. Apart from the shaft area get it coated inside and out. that way the gasket face does not become a route in for more corrosion. That wont work on crank cases but its fine for covers.

If you can't get a colour match, have it done black and ask the coaters to gently etc the new surface. Prime and paint as normal. Any chips will stand out for quick touch-up.

When you put the belt cover back on, use some clear silicone sealer all around to stop it fretting against the engine cover (leave a 10mm gap at the bottom to let any water escape). Mine has as much rot inside as it does outside so I cant see how stone chips could have caused the inside problem. More likely the plastic rubbed through the paint. My rear swing arm is unmarked yet that must also get its share of stones.

 

[malcolmkaty]

thanks does the crank seal need to be replace as the bike has only done 12000 miles

 

[Bendy toy]

12K is worth a punt, but I guess it depends how much hassle it is to get a new seal.

I'm thinking about doing mine. Does the sump oil have to be dropped out?

 

[bikemad]

I think you answerd your own question bendy no doubt oil will pee out if removing the engine case.

 

[Bendy toy]

I was writing without going to the garage. D'Oh.
Yes the oil does piss out but ok if you pry the cover off from the top using the RHS lug as intended.
The two screws holding the bottom of the alternator belt back cover both sheared straight off. Both are open at the back so the weather has got in.
More drilling to do.

 

[Bendy toy]

My comment about coating all over might be bollox. The top corners have oil feed slots. Any leaks there would affect oil supply to cylinder heads.
I'm sure it's do-able but not as simple as I suggested.

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

Hi all
I am looking to repaint the front cover and think it will be better to remove it and get cleaned up and powder coated or painted ,had a look the Haynes manual and looks like you need special tools to fit the crank seal to protech the lip on it ,On other bikes I have had with usd forks you could use thin plastic over the bushes to slide the seals without damage ,I am new to these engines so anybody got hints or tips as the Haynes makes it look a bit of a pain
thanks Malcolm

Paint it in - situ, lot less hassle than removing, and prepared correctly a better result than powdercoat, see here;

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?136102-Front-cover-corrosion-pics

 

[Bendy toy]

I had similar ideas but when I took the alternator belt back cover off I was able to see what a mess of alloy corrosion I had to deal with.
There is also the issue of rot creeping under the old powder coat. Unless that's fully cleaned off you'll be doing it again shortly.
For the sake of some minor spannering and a new crank seal it's way better to do it properly.

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

I had similar ideas but when I took the alternator belt back cover off I was able to see what a mess of alloy corrosion I had to deal with.
There is also the issue of rot creeping under the old powder coat. Unless that's fully cleaned off you'll be doing it again shortly.
For the sake of some minor spannering and a new crank seal it's way better to do it properly.

That's not really true, read the thread, preparation is key but the results are long lasting see the last posts for 2 1/2 years later, once you have the etch primer on and good paint it will last as long as powder coat and is easily maintained by touch up where powder coat once chipped lets moisture underneath and flakes off and is difficult to touch up effectively and it really is a lot less hassle than stripping the cover off!

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?136102-Front-cover-corrosion-pics



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[Bendy toy]

Where access is good I wouldn't disagree - as you say preparation is key. But the front cover is far from easy access especially at the top. Corrosion underneath will bubble any finish so patch repairs always look scruffy.

I'm certain the front cover corrosion at the bottom is 90% vibration fretting where the plastic cover edge rubs away at the rib it sits against. Mine has corroded almost as much above the rib as it has below. Weather and salt will have accelerated damage below.
Mine has also failed at the bottom two bolt holes either side of centre. This was not clear until the cover was off or exhaust out of the way. They are either side of the stone chip area.
Overall for a decent job the cover has to come off the bike. I personally prefer powder coat because it's served me well for years on other bikes.
Properly done paint is good but costs are often similar to powder coat.
The big benefit with powder is a professional clean & etch and the curing oven drives away any last vestiges of moisture.

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

Sorry, cant agree, paints the proper way to go even if it cost more than powder coat (Which it don't) it is the way to go, and has served me well over the last 40 years! but there will always be another way to do it, your choice

 

[Paul B]

Rusty cover

Just bought a 12 plate bike with 2800 miles on showing signs of corrosion on the front cover , bike has full service history with bmw and is only 2yrs 5 mths old. Do you think bmw will cover it under warranty ?

 

[Bendy toy]

Use whatever sticks best. They all pinhole eventually & corrosion will creep under.

The standard BMW engine finish is multi layer so must be paint but it fails.
Anodising could be the best option. It works well on brake calipers and there is no edge at gasket faces. Only snag it's just a few microns thick.

 

[Pukmeister]

Just bought a 12 plate bike with 2800 miles on showing signs of corrosion on the front cover , bike has full service history with bmw and is only 2yrs 5 mths old. Do you think bmw will cover it under warranty ?

Take it to your preferred BMW Motorrad dealer and ask them (politely) if they can try to make a warranty claim due to corrosion.

 

[YellowRS]

Just bought a 12 plate bike with 2800 miles on showing signs of corrosion on the front cover , bike has full service history with bmw and is only 2yrs 5 mths old. Do you think bmw will cover it under warranty ?

Interesting point, I had the same problem on my old 2007 GSA.
At the time the bike was about 5years old and clearly out of manufacturers warantee but I complained to BMW and they eventually agree to replace cover but I had to contribute to labour cost.
From memory cost me about £90 but brand new front cover fitted by local main dealer
Might be worth having a word with your dealer

 

[Bendy toy]

Mine is costing about £35 for strip & coating. Paint may be similar if that's your preference.