Front wheel hub

[John Roberts]

1982 R100RS. I always(-ish) take a photo before stripping things, but this job was a doddle, done it before, and it would be in one of the books anyway. Well, it bleedin' wasn't this time.

The photos are from the BMW manual. The first shows all the bits apart from item 3 which is shown in the other photo. This other photo refers to another type of wheel according to the manual, but there is definitely a spacer like item 3 among the bits in my hub. Oh, and there is another sleeve that isn't shown and goes on the axle on the Left Hand Side between the fork and the thrust piece, item 2 in the big photo.

Can someone please tell me where item 3 in the smaller photo should go?

 

[cas.vanderwoude]

hi there, this image is from Duane Ausherman's great site. It might help or you can check out his URL.

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/wheels.htm

Another good source of information would be one of several microfiche sites like this one

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51642&rnd=03252011

this might be a stupid question but did you heat the hub before removing the bearing stack?

 

[John Roberts]

hi there, this image is from Duane Ausherman's great site. It might help or you can check out his URL.

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/wheels.htm

Another good source of information would be one of several microfiche sites like this one

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51642&rnd=03252011

this might be a stupid question but did you heat the hub before removing the bearing stack?

Hi, Cas (that is your name is it?) and welcome to the site. And thank you too for your reply, that's a very useful site you have pointed me to. There are similarities between the wheels/hubs refered to in the first link for sure but mine is an '82 model RS, so I'm not too sure where I stand. My type of wheel is neither of the cast ones shown in the second link, although close enough, it does show that there are two spacers of unequal length in the middle.

As things stand the longer spacer tube is 55mm and the shorter one (Wedding Ring) is 7.15mm on mine. To adjust the preload on the bearings a selection of these shorter tubes is available from 6.3 to 7.7mm so mine seems to be roughly in the middle of the range, Haynes says that it's a job for a dealer to set the preload, but from your first link it seems that unless the preload is really excessive then things should be fine for some serious mileage. It does seem an awkward job, to check the preload the wheel has to be replaced in the forks, and if you need to try another spacer you will have to take the wheel off and partially strip and then reassemble the hub until you get it right. By "right" I think just a bit less than no play would be acceptable, if you know what I mean. Below is a sketch of my hub, it also shows two plastic sleeves, I'm not sure what they do.

I'll start off with my existing Wedding Ring and feel my way forward from there. I have a lathe and the measuring equipment to make various lengths of Wedding Rings which ought to help. Oh, and a blowlamp to insert/remove the bearings.

Well, that's my understanding of the process anyway, gleaned mainly from the information you have provided and from the Haynes Manual. It does seem an arse of a job.

But before I make an arse of myself does the above make sense to all you people out there?

PS I remember a thread on here a year or so ago, I've had a look but couldn't find it. Can anyone direct me to it please?

 

[PW Cymru]

John your's is the same wheel as mine and the pre-load isn't difficult to check and adjust.

Rob did mine and explained it to me when he did it.

You will need to make a spacer up to enable the wheel assy to be torqued up on the spindle (off the bike) then a very low reading torque wrench to check the pre-load on the bearings by checking the turning resistance on spindle assy.

Either a dodgy tyre or bad pre-load nearly ended my days, frightened the crap out of me.

Regards

Paul

 

[John Roberts]

Thanks Paul, what a good idea, the spacer should only take a few minutes, and will surely save a lot of time. Seems a bit of a bugger having to insert/remove the bearing every time though.

Ho hum, off to the workshop I go.

PS Thanks for your PM Paul, all OK now, only needs retiming. The diode board was OK too, charging fine. Phew!

 

[John Roberts]

John your's is the same wheel as mine and the pre-load isn't difficult to check and adjust.

Paul

Is it that easy if you need to insert/remove a bearing every time though? I have got that right, have I?

 

[PW Cymru]

Is it that easy if you need to insert/remove a bearing every time though? I have got that right, have I?

John you only remove the inner race retaining the wedding band and select the appropriate size
then refit the sellected wedding band and refit inner race and recheck.

it really is simple when it 's explained properly (which I probably haven't)

 

[John Roberts]

John you only remove the inner race retaining the wedding band and select the appropriate size
then refit the sellected wedding band and refit inner race and recheck.

it really is simple when it 's explained properly (which I probably haven't)

Oh, sweet Jesus don't I feel a dick. The explanation was fine. Thank you, thank you.