Fuel Pump problem fixed - Bike jerky now.

GSAEleventyTen

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Hi folks,
I suffered a problem last week and the dealer diagnosed and replaced the "fuel pump reducer"
Since i got the bike back it feels more jerky at 2000-3000 revs, in 2nd and 3rd gear. Especially at cruising pace in traffic.
Is this normal?
Will it "free out" over miles?


Thanks for any advice.
 
Try This. Switch on ignition, do not start. Turn throttle from off to full 3 times. Switch off ignition. Start bike and drive. This resets your throttle sinc, which may have been disturbed,
 
Not wishing to appear a smartarse mate but that isn't throttle synch, its throttle position sensor reset. This tells the fuel injection computer how far the throttle has been opened.

Throttle synch involves balancing the two throttle butterflies in the intakes by adjusting the mechanical travel of the throttle cables until they have the same mechanical movement (normally by using vacuum gauges or an electronic sensing tool eg twinmax).

If the TPS reset doesn't fix it, take the bike back to the dealer and tell them its running rough and ask if they can try rebalance the throttles to smooth it out. Its only a 5 minute job but the dealer uses software to 'park' the idle stepper motors for more accurate adjustment whereas most home mechanics just raise the engine rpm above 4000 when balancing.
 
Hi fellas,
Thanks for both of your suggestions. I tried the throttle three times one, a few times. Pretty sue I did it right and didnt seem to correct it.
Running rough still.
Gonna bring back to dealer.

Thanks again

A
 
The tps reset doesn't work on a 12. Could be throttle ballance, but it's unlikely to have gone off so suddenly. Let him have another look at it, as the problem wasn't there when you left it to him, if you are still stuck, give me a shout.
Brian.
 
RTFM - TPS reset required if battery disconnected, so disconnect and reconnect battery then carry out TPS reset :thumb2
 
Thanks for all your advice so far guys, really appreciate it.
Right. Here goes.
Brought it back to the dealer. It is now driving perfectly again. Noticeable if very subtle difference.

What did he find and say the problem was?
The positive feed to the diagnostic plug was broken.

The relay wire for my auxiliary lights, I had tapped into the green wire to the diagnostic plug. He said the connection I made had come loose and was causing problems.
I find it hard to see how this could have been the cause.
But he said I shouldnt have tapped in there.

I see no problems with it, although I will concede perhaps my connection wasn't perfect and may have come loose or broken the positive feed to the diagnostic plug. (due to my fat fingers). My thoughts are that if I properly solder a connection, I can safely use that green wire as a feed for my PIAA lights relay.

The bike drove perfectly for 6 months with the aux lights relay fed from there.
 
Thanks for all your advice so far guys, really appreciate it.
Right. Here goes.
Brought it back to the dealer. It is now driving perfectly again. Noticeable if very subtle difference.

What did he find and say the problem was?
The positive feed to the diagnostic plug was broken.

The relay wire for my auxiliary lights, I had tapped into the green wire to the diagnostic plug. He said the connection I made had come loose and was causing problems.
I find it hard to see how this could have been the cause.
But he said I shouldnt have tapped in there.

I see no problems with it, although I will concede perhaps my connection wasn't perfect and may have come loose or broken the positive feed to the diagnostic plug. (due to my fat fingers). My thoughts are that if I properly solder a connection, I can safely use that green wire as a feed for my PIAA lights relay.

The bike drove perfectly for 6 months with the aux lights relay fed from there.

I wouldn't have thought he had any reason to be other than completely honest with you?

I you want a switched +ve to drive a relay use the sidelight circuit (front or back)...... definately keep away from the diagnostic plug - just a can of worms.
 
I you want a switched +ve to drive a relay use the sidelight circuit (front or back)...... definately keep away from the diagnostic plug - just a can of worms.

If you use the sidelight circuit as suggested above, you will get a blown lamp warning on reconnecting the battery during the ignition circuit self-test. Don't panic as it will reset after engine startup as the circuit measures and recalibrates the new resistance of the sidelight with an added relay coil in it.
 
am i expecting to much?

my gs started running lumpy at idle and occasionly stalling at junctions whilst cold,took it to the dealer who couldnt find a problem but then tried charging me:eek i complained strongly and didnt pay in the end-the dealer was where i got the bike (new) from and they serviced it. its still under warranty and it still suffers from the same problem,after this experience i really dont want to take the bike back to them. i feel they have had my 10grand and now dont want to help unless there are additional charges-goodwill my ar**
 


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