Fuel strip to float conversion complete guide.

I have seen
a Basic
a Basic low
a Basic high
never seen anything other than a High version of a High...

if you can get a reading, its operational - if the reading is rubbish its the float position... later small tank bikes moved it to the filler neck (but not seen where it points to) - I guess the idea is to reduce the discrepancy between leant over vs upright readings....

the GSA has a setting to disable the readings when the side stand is down... the small tank bikes don't get that - my alternate float solution (as I have BOTH sets of wires but NOTHING to turn on in my Basic High) is the probeemer box - but if I park on the side stand with >15 litres in there it goes mad and throws the broken strip errors - then when upright gets over itself all over again within 200 yards - also takes 70+ miles to drop a notch, in fact next change is 3 bars gone, with 120 miles in from a full tank drops to nearly empty for 25 miles and comes back up to 70 to go ...and then works perfectly to empty - its just rubbish compared to a real strip

the Argentinian aftermarket strip is the correct way to go for small tank bikes
Fuel Sensor Tech shop

@MWH - if it says 480 then you have a GSA ? - If so did you turn on the second feature - igore side stand readings ?
 
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Yep Botus, it's a GSA. I did the potentiometer code and the inductive fuel sensor code. Is there another?

Seems I've asked this before and forgotten, or didn't understand the answer which is more likely. In your post 154 it has freeze fls by sidestand , should it be activated or deactivated?
 
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activated - I believe - as in don't update the fuel gauge readings if the side stand is down - its only (as far as I know) in the ZFE High module, certainly none of what you want are there on my ZFE Basic High
 
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Cheers. Just been down and checked it all.. again. Has potentiometer, inductive deactivated, and freeze sidestand activated. Guess my bike doesn't like me. Tempted to go back to strip with the upgraded one but not sure I can be bothered to repin the ecu connectors back.
 
thats exactly why I added the extra wires - re pinning is stupid - just imagine when BM offers a free strip other recall fun - then refuse to work on a bike that messed up
 
you'd be one o

you'd be one of two saying this works -

maybe the Basic LOW works - Basic HIGH doesn't

I guess you don't have TMPS? how about ABS?

rather than make one decent circuit board and saving 10 million - by not designing, testing, writing training documentation, adding flexibility for each version of software tools, software updates, fulfilling a complex supply chain to make sure the correct bike got the correct module, maintaining parts lists, and asking the supplier to make four units - the MORONS could have made one like a grown up
Yep don't have abs I bought a used High unit from ebay just in case i needed it. I will have a go at fitting the High unit and re-coding it just to see what happens
 
Yep don't have abs I bought a used High unit from ebay just in case i needed it. I will have a go at fitting the High unit and re-coding it just to see what happens
that'll be an interesting attempt

lots of wires need re-pinning - it wasn't as logical as all bikes us the j1 socket and extra are added to j2 - they mix and match everything

and the VO is another piece of the jigsaw - which toys are turned on and allowed to operate around the canbus is hidden it seems in three modules -
cluster, engine and zfe each carry a version of what toys the bike has fitted - and at present no one makes a third party tool I'm aware of that'll let you write this
 
Hi,
wrote on another thread but here is my doings.
Have r1200gs 8/2008. Bmw database tells it ZFE Basic high. Still made the conversion that works. Bought used float and zapped my strip, cleared the faults, made coding on ZFE and cluster with motoscan after repinning and voila it works.
I have owned the bike since last spring and the previous owner told when asked that this was the third strip that had failed on the bike. Ther are some things I have to find out about the bikes units and software reloads wich can be bit hard but up to Berlin I am ready to demand.
 
Gents-

I have a 2007 GSA with the fuel strip standard. It also has the ZFE Basic module. I converted it to a float assembly by using a one out of a Hyundai (part number 94460-0w000) that I purchased off Ali Express for US$12.30. I also purchased a 2.5X500mm stainless rod and bent it to match the BMW float rod, and ensured that when installed did not touch anywhere on the inside of the fuel tank during it's travel. I drew up an adapter plate in CAD to mount the Hyundai float sensor to the BMW fuel pump assembly, and then printed it on a 3D printer. The ZFE Basic module doesn't give the option "Inductive_Fuel_Sensor" in MotoScan, so I had to purchase a ZFE High module out of a 2009 GSA on Ebay for $27.00. I did attempt to use the ZFE Basic module by only switch it from Foil to Potentiometer, but no luck. After installing the ZFE High unit (which works without any changes in serial numbers), the fuel gauge works again. Cheapest float conversion option by far.
 
Very interesting that there were no problems with replacing your ZFE basic unit with a ZFE high. Also interesting that you performed this conversion with a tank sensor from a Hyundai. Do you have any pictures of your float sensor installation? What ohm values did you have when the tank was full and empty? I used the original BMW float and adjusted it (bent the sensor arm) until I had 4 ohms when the tank was full and 88 ohms when it was empty. The sensor did not fit in my tank when I got it as the float was touching both the tank and the transfer hose. After a little work everything was perfect. The conversion to float is one of the better modifications I have done to my bike. I now can trust my fuel gauge and don't have to wonder if my fuel strip is working or is broken this time. I have an early 2010 GSA, the last ones that had a fuel strip from the factory.
Best regards
 
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Gents-

I have a 2007 GSA with the fuel strip standard. It also has the ZFE Basic module. I converted it to a float assembly by using a one out of a Hyundai (part number 94460-0w000) that I purchased off Ali Express for US$12.30. I also purchased a 2.5X500mm stainless rod and bent it to match the BMW float rod, and ensured that when installed did not touch anywhere on the inside of the fuel tank during it's travel. I drew up an adapter plate in CAD to mount the Hyundai float sensor to the BMW fuel pump assembly, and then printed it on a 3D printer. The ZFE Basic module doesn't give the option "Inductive_Fuel_Sensor" in MotoScan, so I had to purchase a ZFE High module out of a 2009 GSA on Ebay for $27.00. I did attempt to use the ZFE Basic module by only switch it from Foil to Potentiometer, but no luck. After installing the ZFE High unit (which works without any changes in serial numbers), the fuel gauge works again. Cheapest float conversion option by far.
and all the other features?

or did you start repining stuff - the ambient temp sensor is on socket J2 - so that's now dead ?
 
Very interesting that there were no problems with replacing your ZFE basic unit with a ZFE high. Also interesting that you performed this conversion with a tank sensor from a Hyundai. Do you have any pictures of your float sensor installation? What ohm values did you have when the tank was full and empty? I used the original BMW float and adjusted it (bent the sensor arm) until I had 4 ohms when the tank was full and 88 ohms when it was empty. The sensor did not fit in my tank when I got it as the float was touching both the tank and the transfer hose. After a little work everything was perfect. The conversion to float is one of the better modifications I have done to my bike. I now can trust my fuel gauge and don't have to wonder if my fuel strip is working or is broken this time. I have an early 2010 GSA, the last ones that had a fuel strip from the factory.
Best regards
Interesting about the ohms. How did you bend it to get it right? With the tank full you obviously cant get the pump out without spiling fuel. When you say 4 at empty, was that bone dry or couple of litres in the bottom? I can't seem to get rid of my 41778 code and don't want to change the ecu so may have to refit the float and repin again. When i had the float it seemed to get caught between the return pipe and inside edge of the tank, no matter what I did i couldn't stop it as the pipe sits high at the rear of the tank.
 
Interesting about the ohms. How did you bend it to get it right? With the tank full you obviously cant get the pump out without spiling fuel. When you say 4 at empty, was that bone dry or couple of litres in the bottom? I can't seem to get rid of my 41778 code and don't want to change the ecu so may have to refit the float and repin again. When i had the float it seemed to get caught between the return pipe and inside edge of the tank, no matter what I did i couldn't stop it as the pipe sits high at the rear of the tank.
I did the work when my tank was completely empty and maneuvered the float by hand. The new float did not work in my tank without modification, (I have an early 2010 GSA). The original sensor only gave 73 ohms when the float was as far down as it could go and it also gut stuck in the transfer hose. In my post #215 in this thread there are pictures of how I modified the angle of the float's steel pin so that everything worked for me. After modification I have 4 ohms when the float is as high as it can go (full tank) and 88 ohms when it is at the bottom (empty tank). The fuel gauge works very well (I describe how in post #221) and the yellow warning light comes on at basically the exact same level every time, when I have 6 liters left.
 
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Thank you. I've read so much about this i don't know whether I'm coming or going. I shall go back and read the posts numbers you mentioned, thanks again 👍
 
Hello, I have changed the fuel level using the float on the BMW R. 1200 RT. The float system is not compatible with the BMW 1200 GS, in addition to installing the specific R 1200 RT float. We have to change the ZFE control unit. My R 1200 RT is from 2005. I have installed ABS 2, I also installed ASC and finally the fuel level float system.


 
WUkHLVh.jpeg


this better box of tricks has the logic to turn off level readings when the side stand is down, and calculate the gibberish signals coming from the float
 
WUkHLVh.jpeg


this better box of tricks has the logic to turn off level readings when the side stand is down, and calculate the gibberish signals coming from the float
Firstly, I tried to use the original control unit by changing the configuration with Moto Scan but the fuel level reading was the other way around, as you all know when the tank is full it shows empty and when it is empty it shows full, with this control unit with a manufacturing date at the end of 2012 there was no problem from the first moment the whole motorcycle works without problems and also the cruise control that I have installed in the factory since I bought the motorcycle.
 
WUkHLVh.jpeg


this better box of tricks has the logic to turn off level readings when the side stand is down, and calculate the gibberish signals coming from the float
Botus, I need your help. Yesterday I drove my BMW RT and the cruise control doesn't work. The cruise switch light comes on, but it doesn't work. Yesterday I used Moto Scan to go into the ECU configuration and the cruise control was disabled. I activated it, and now the cruise control switch light doesn't come on. Before, the cruise control worked with the other ZFE. What's the problem that makes it not work now? Can you help me? Thanks.
 


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