G/S frame fixings size and thread pitch
- Thread starter sj_4x4
- Start date
M12 x 1.5. These front ones ( it’s the main engine mounting shaft by the way) can be a pig to get out if they weren’t fitted with plenty of anti seize. Motorworks do sell stainless.
Thanks Paul, I will try and save it first, it looks like a pig of a job to replace.
Plus Gas and patience - as in hrs or days and a bit of heat regularly- blowlamp
That looks like its never been out - check it from tuther side its a long rod threaded at either end.
Good Luck
HTHY
That looks like its never been out - check it from tuther side its a long rod threaded at either end.
Good Luck
HTHY
Pretty sure I have a pair in the shed that you are welcome to if you can’t resurrect it.
C
C
Depending on your facilities I’d recommend removing it and replacing it. My method, remove your exhaust downpipes, all airhead owners are wise to have them off once a year for cleaning up the cylinder head threads and re anti seize the knurled nuts anyway.
This will give you more room. Have the sump off. This will expose the part of the block casting that the engine mount bolt travels through. Days of soaking the outer areas where the bolt comes out and goes through the spacer and frame lug. You can get a flame torch into the casing to heat and expand the casing. With a nut on one end, protecting the threads try knocking it through. Double nut method and twisting may help too.
Good luck.
First thing I did when I got my GS? Pulled the studs back and forth and dribbled plus gas down them. Likewise the exhaust roses get loosened regularly and copaslip applied before tightening again.
Every airhead owner should make it a regular routine!
Every airhead owner should make it a regular routine!
What I do with mine is mix copperslip with graphite until it’s black, then when the copperslip burns off it leaves a film of graphite,
I get the graphite from sandpaper and a joiners pencil,
It will never get hot enough to burn the graphite off.
I made a side stand for mine
![>](http://<img src="https://i.ibb.co/cyRx4nx/3-FC08-B2-D-6-C5-E-49-D6-B5-ED-514063928922.jpg" alt="3-FC08-B2-D-6-C5-E-49-D6-B5-ED-514063928922" border="0" />)
Thanks again Paul, I will be replacing it long term, I am going to try a quick fix so I can use the bike as I have not ridden it properly yet and it will give me a chance to fully go over the rest of the bike as I fear there may be some other bodges lurking.
Excellent idea !
Ian body’s really;
Is that frame nickel plated?......if it is, can we have some more pictures of the bike, as I think it looks good from what I can see
And a good tip on mixing graphite with the copper slip..... I think I will nick that idea....thanks
Bubb
Is that frame nickel plated?......if it is, can we have some more pictures of the bike, as I think it looks good from what I can see
And a good tip on mixing graphite with the copper slip..... I think I will nick that idea....thanks
Bubb
Good news and bad, I was not surprised to find the other side had also had the wrong nut forced onto it, but the threads cleaned up a lot better then I hoped they would, and the new nylocks are not far off FT.
Bad news, both engine mounting bars are seized solid so is on the future to do list.
Bad news, both engine mounting bars are seized solid so is on the future to do list.
Attachments
It’s chrome plated, was like that when I got it, and rusty, it’s now been stripped off and two pack painted black.
Save your pencils.
https://www.barnsleylock.co.uk/silca-graphite-powder-lock-lubricant-5820-p.asp
This is used at work.
https://www.rocol.com/products/antiseize797-high-temperature-anti-seize-paste
https://www.barnsleylock.co.uk/silca-graphite-powder-lock-lubricant-5820-p.asp
This is used at work.
https://www.rocol.com/products/antiseize797-high-temperature-anti-seize-paste
It would last forever at home.
