Gaels in Mozambique.

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Simon covered the awful road yesterday and potholes does not cover the size of some of the holes. They were big enough to bury a small car and sometimes I had to ride down the side and come up the other side, disappearing from Simon's view behind. Looking through my helmet cam photos, I have no good photos of the road, because not falling off, or being wiped out by a swaying truck, were occupying all our thoughts.

Before we got to the bad section of road, there were a lot of people along the side if the road, engaged in various activities.

Here, selling roundal roofing material, or, carrying heavy loads of wood for the fire or possibly for charcoal, then these colourful ladies are just back from tilling the fields and lastly, maybe the saddest picture, is this little family all with a water container so they can fill them and carry them home.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

This view of a grand old Baobabs lifted our spirits for a while.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

We came across a lot more motorbikes up this part of Mozambique. Here we have a group of motorbike taxis waiting in the shade for customers, the next photo is one in use, with 2 happy customers, and lastly an example of the challenges of using a helmet cam while the user and subject are in motion. This photo should show both the rider and passenger, who are passing between them a can as they ride along.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

This guy wins the prize for transporting the greatest load on a bicycle, with these sacks of charcoal.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

I was amused at the no cows sign, which these guys cleary didn't read.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

We decided that as it was early afternoon by the time we had entered Zim, found an ATM and got two working SIMs, we would stay in this chilled town Mutare for the night before heading South.

Visit to the Mutare Club, an old colonial club

Definitely a vestige of the last.

Just by our lodgings was this fun barbecue place , where we ate later: enormous helping of chicken rice and veggies, ditto sausage, sadze and veggies- all for $7. (Sadze is made from mealie and substantial rather than tasty, to my palate).

The Sadze pot.

It was confusingly called a car wash but was also a clothing market

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

As we've moved up to the north, we've seen more traditional roundal villages.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Still some photos from the road...this gentleman was quite content to overtake the truck, despite two oncoming motorcycles.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Also seen from the road...if you don't have steel supports for your concrete, use tree branches.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

So yesterday we made it to Masvingo and visited Great Zimbabwe, the remains of an 11th century royal city which survived 400 years.
We were delighted that the 27km to the national monument was almost all tar, but less thrilled at the long climb ahead, egged on by our enthusiastic guide Ishmael. We left the bikes at the entrance, surrounded by many baboons.

Stopped for a breather on Blood Path, designed as a narrow single person climb so enemies could be butchered at will (hence the name presumably).

We haven’t seen any tourists to speak of in Zimbabwe so it seems we were the tourist attraction, selfie politely requested

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

From there we rode back to our rather dilapidated business hotel (but you should see the two places we turned down, really basic and overpriced!).

Some deft negotiation by Jim secured us a night (without breakfast) at the Regency Chevron, at which we arrived during a power cut so could see no one inside until they smiled

Its decor echoed a theme we have seen throughout Zimbabwe of 70s and maybe 99s architecture, now showing years of neglect. But the cheerfulness and food nature of people despite adversity has been great to experience.

Being a Sunday evening everything seemed closed so we opted to eat in house but as they had no pasta and no vegetable soup we ended up with two excellent omelettes and a pile of piping chips so not a bad result overall.

Today was a trip west to Bulawayo, some 300kms on remarkably empty and fast roads so we arrived by noon and to our surprise blagged a good rate at the old colonial Bulawayo Club in the city centre. A few snaps follow:

What every adventure rider expects:

Bedroom

Courtyard for quiet reflection and trip planning

I wrote earlier o the architecture…some images from central Bulawayo

After an afternoon and night relaxing here, tomorrow we will head towards Vic Falls to cross into Botswana on Wednesday . Jim has been doing some chain adjustment and in general the bikes are holding up well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

Good to see Covid vaccination programs happening on the street, seemingly readily accessible (but I didn’t check that)

Jim and I are now pressing our dinner jackets in preparation for dining this evening at The Club

With perhaps a beverage in the long bar beforehand?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Northern jock]

The streets of Bulwayo, or some of them at least, were made wide enough to turn an ox wagon with a full team of oxen pulling it (8 I think).

Should be able to manage a uturn, feet up

 

[simondippenhall]

Well the streets of Bulawayo were pretty thronged with street vendors and people this late afternoon when we went out in pursuit of tomorrow’s breakfast

This wodge of local wonga is worth US$25…..today!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[richardbd]

Well the streets of Bulawayo were pretty thronged with street vendors and people this late afternoon when we went out in pursuit of tomorrow’s breakfast

This wodge of local wonga is worth US$25…..today!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If that's as much as $25, the Zim dollar must have made something of a recovery...

 

[Kitsilano]

Simon, I am probably reaching you too late with this note as you likely have an early start but there used to be (January 1987) a rather remarkable central park/gardens in the city - perhaps adjacent to the Bulawayo Tennis Club as I recall.....it was a refreshing reminder of pre-Mugabe days and gave some insight into what the earlier city had been. I camped on the Bulawayo golf course as this was a revenue-generating endeavour!

(The Lonely Planet publication 'Africa On A Shoestring' was my guide and companion!)

BTW, I had tried to (unsuccessfully) hitchhike out to the Great Zimbabwe ruins and was told a little later that I had been fortunate to have failed as the area was notorious for robberies at that time.....not all of them ending well. Thankfully, then, much has changed.

Safe riding over the bridge and to Livingstone.....

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Crossing from Moz into Zimbabwe I noticed a change in the behaviour of the people along the roadside. In Moz I sensed a lighter mood in the people we passed, even the families off to collect water were smiling. In Moz we often got waved at as we passed. Here in Zimbabwe the people seem less outgoing, unsure how to respond. If I wave as I pass, I rarely get a wave back. I'm not sure why this difference exists but it is there.

The things on the side of the road we did enjoy, we're the beobabs. There is a concentration of these wonderful trees, about 90km from the border. We were told to look out for them, but in truth you couldn't miss them. If you'll permit me here are a few examples, including a pair of baobabs, one either side of the road.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Yesterday was Sunday and the churchgoers were out in best dresses and hats!

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

We stopped in a small town yesterday for a fill up which displayed a sign with useful numbers!

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

 

[Drumacoon Lad.]

Simon mentioned the Plood Path at Great Zimbabwe but I thought some might like to see it as an attacker would view it. The guide pointed out that the defenders would throw rocks on the attackers from above and those who survived would struggle to use their weapons in the tight space. This entrance made the residence of the king almost impenetrable.

Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk