The oil level in the photograph is from a bike from new ( 2 miles )' filled by the factory . Or maybe BM is saving a massive amount of cash by not adding 300 ml of oil.
GEARBOX/CLUTCH PROBLEMS ON 2014 MODELS
- Thread starter biggeorge
- Start date
The oil level in the photograph is from a bike from new ( 2 miles )' filled by the factory . Or maybe BM is saving a massive amount of cash by not adding 300 ml of oil.
The oil level in the photograph is from a bike from new ( 2 miles )' filled by the factory . Or maybe BM is saving a massive amount of cash by not adding 300 ml of oil.
I believe that bikes are being filled with a little less oil when they go in for servicing - I was told that this was on the instruction of BMW, but that is only hearsay I hasten to add. On cold mornings it seems less likely to clonk into 1st with the oil level at 2/3 of the window but once it is warm the clonk into 1st is the same.
Hi Paul,
I`d be very interested to know if the characteristc of your clutch changes after first service/dealer oil change . Just something I`ve had in the back of my mind .
Out of interest my 13 Lc improved greatly after slipping the clutch and getting it bedded in . Well pleased the bike and no problems in 5500miles
Take care Dennis
I`d be very interested to know if the characteristc of your clutch changes after first service/dealer oil change . Just something I`ve had in the back of my mind .
Out of interest my 13 Lc improved greatly after slipping the clutch and getting it bedded in . Well pleased the bike and no problems in 5500miles
Take care Dennis
Interesting question there Dennis.
I had the service done 2 days ago and the 'clutch bite' now appears to be right at the last 1/4 of the lever now, similar to not having any free play on a cable operated clutch.
There is clearly electronic wizardry going on with the clutch operation as there appears to be at least two micro switches linked to the lever. Given this, I guess it would be possible to 'remap' the clutches characteristics and operation during the service, does this sound feasible?
Gossy
Registered user
As a point of interest has anyone with a bike with a smooth gearbox ridden one with a noisy one, seems a great chance for a direct comparison and discussion of opinions on what if anything is wrong - or is this too simple
I have a 2014 GS with 600 miles on the clock, it's just had the run-in service.
Neutral is not always easy to find from second and the clunk into first is there but otherwise the changes aren't too bad. Definitely not a super smooth box but acceptable, about on a par with my old hex head RT.
The horrendous clunk from neutral into first when warm has been described as characteristic but I'd say it is horrendous and BMW need to fix it. When cold the clunk and jump isn't there but when hot it's always there when stationary but if I change into first just before I come to a stop then I don't notice it. It's not really typical of a multiplate wet clutch, well not in my limited experience as it gets worse as the oil warms up. I'm beginning to change into first as stopping and hold the clutch in at lights etc. just to avoid the clunk/jump/grating effect
.
It seems no different after the first service when a software update was installed as well (would have thought they'd have done that a week or so ago when I took delivery) but I've only ridden it a short distance since then. The update seems to have improved the fuelling and slight surge I used to get sometimes when rolling off the throttle. The update hasn't changed the feel at the clutch lever as far as I can tell.
Now I can give it some real stick I'm hoping the clutch/gear box will improve as the clutch plates wear in (or should that be out
)
Neutral is not always easy to find from second and the clunk into first is there but otherwise the changes aren't too bad. Definitely not a super smooth box but acceptable, about on a par with my old hex head RT.
The horrendous clunk from neutral into first when warm has been described as characteristic but I'd say it is horrendous and BMW need to fix it. When cold the clunk and jump isn't there but when hot it's always there when stationary but if I change into first just before I come to a stop then I don't notice it. It's not really typical of a multiplate wet clutch, well not in my limited experience as it gets worse as the oil warms up. I'm beginning to change into first as stopping and hold the clutch in at lights etc. just to avoid the clunk/jump/grating effect
.It seems no different after the first service when a software update was installed as well (would have thought they'd have done that a week or so ago when I took delivery) but I've only ridden it a short distance since then. The update seems to have improved the fuelling and slight surge I used to get sometimes when rolling off the throttle. The update hasn't changed the feel at the clutch lever as far as I can tell.
Now I can give it some real stick I'm hoping the clutch/gear box will improve as the clutch plates wear in (or should that be out
)
Diplomatically put biggeorge, but I find them blinkered and/or patronising.
Titto
Registered user
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337687
Perhaps continue on here? There are numerous new threads popping up about clutch issues even on the new models, 2000 posts seems doable now!!
Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
Perhaps continue on here? There are numerous new threads popping up about clutch issues even on the new models, 2000 posts seems doable now!!
Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
jeff
Registered user
As a point of interest has anyone with a bike with a smooth gearbox ridden one with a noisy one, seems a great chance for a direct comparison and discussion of opinions on what if anything is wrong - or is this too simple
Far too simple. Might well provide practical evidence of whether it is machine or rider (or a combination of both)
The fact that BMW are replacing parts or whole bikes seems to suggest it is more than rider technique.
Muncher
Registered user
I have a a 13 LC with 10,000 miles I had the same problems as you guys , as the miles got more the box got better, I rider mostly two up but still if you nail it in the bottom three gears it hits spinning gears , i found buy stamping the gear leaver into first it just clonks straight into gear. Last week I applied this method when you nail it in 1 2 3 be fast and hard with the leaver no problems. So it's just great to rev it hard in first be fast and forcefull
I know we're only talking about the WC GS but after some tw*t reversed their van into my 3 week old GS and took it off the road I've got a Suzuki Bandit 1250 as a loan. Now THAT is a bike with a clonk into first. Cold or hot, it's like a bucking bronco in comparison, but the (hydraulic) clutch is so heavy you need to be Hercules to hold it in when waiting at the lights. What with that and all the plastic rattling and the mirrors shaking themselves to bits I can't wait to get the GS back 
Hi Paul,
I think this is just the variation in the `running in` oil which is probably a thinner viscosity that the oil put in at first service. Obviously the original `factory oil being thinner does not need as much travel with the lever to break the ` stiction` on the plates. With the heavier 40 weight oil it`s probably stickier and needs greater travel with the lever to separate the plates. Personally if I was re-engineering the problem I`d look at the ratio between master cylinder travel and slave cylinder travel . Certainly with mine there was a noticed difference following the oil change and I addressed it by giving it plenty of clutch slipping in 4th to take the newness off the surface of the plates. I think it would be a good idea to try one of the later 30 weight oils or a different oil manufacturers 40. It would also be a guess that this problem was not mentioned in the early press reports as perhaps all the low mileage press fleet were on running in oil ?
food for thought......Den
I think this is just the variation in the `running in` oil which is probably a thinner viscosity that the oil put in at first service. Obviously the original `factory oil being thinner does not need as much travel with the lever to break the ` stiction` on the plates. With the heavier 40 weight oil it`s probably stickier and needs greater travel with the lever to separate the plates. Personally if I was re-engineering the problem I`d look at the ratio between master cylinder travel and slave cylinder travel . Certainly with mine there was a noticed difference following the oil change and I addressed it by giving it plenty of clutch slipping in 4th to take the newness off the surface of the plates. I think it would be a good idea to try one of the later 30 weight oils or a different oil manufacturers 40. It would also be a guess that this problem was not mentioned in the early press reports as perhaps all the low mileage press fleet were on running in oil ?
food for thought......Den
exchanging views : why would you think that the running-in oil is thinner than 5W-40 ?
.
rodsharp
Registered user
Interesting to read these comments,I had not heard of this before. I have just decided to buy new WC but thought it would be best to try one first. What an eye opener, the engine is smooth and at high revs plenty fast enough ,good throttle response and it feels lighter than previous model even though the specs say its slightly heavier. The brakes are also fantastic.
However the gear change was dreadful ,an awful clonk into first and crunching into second. Also the engine was very noisy on tickover. It turned out to be a 2013 bike with 3500 miles on the clock and the dealer told me the new 2014 bikes are improved. I am now not sure ,overall my 20000 mile TC is, in my opinion, much better overall than the new one I have just tried so I thought I would check up peoples comments on this site and it seems a common opinion. Maybe I should just hang onto my 2010 model after all its only just run in and there is nothing wrong with it. Decision time ?????
However the gear change was dreadful ,an awful clonk into first and crunching into second. Also the engine was very noisy on tickover. It turned out to be a 2013 bike with 3500 miles on the clock and the dealer told me the new 2014 bikes are improved. I am now not sure ,overall my 20000 mile TC is, in my opinion, much better overall than the new one I have just tried so I thought I would check up peoples comments on this site and it seems a common opinion. Maybe I should just hang onto my 2010 model after all its only just run in and there is nothing wrong with it. Decision time ?????
For me (neutral selection occasionally iffy) the good far outweigh the bad.. But I'm sure if u get a really bad one it would be mind numbing, although I believe BMW have been really good on trading problem bikes & looking after their customers.
Maybe a chat to dealer expressing concerns before purchase might be in order.
nother gearbox issue... yesterday I drove off with a hard acceleration in 1st gear, to around 7000rpm and then the 2nd would not engage, even with the throttle closed and rpm's down to 2000. I had to put it N and then to 1st again. After that, no problems... this was after riding for about two hours...
rudiemoto
Registered user
all of this above makes me think,how much myths on the net
there is no running in oil in any gs .
there use shell or who ever at the time bring out the latest new tech oil
I addressed it by giving it plenty of clutch slipping in 4th to take the newness off the surface of the plates
take the newness,please dont try this at home,
old den sir
please no more food from your thoughts .
there is a problem but again bmw will not stand up to it .
i can list 50 things will gs1100 to gs1200 2012
number 1 . gs1100 is for girls
number 2. gs1100 riders look like vern
I noted some issues with my gearbox on my 14 bike ie finding N takes time and the clutch lever seem to release at variable positions ie like there's a bit of air in the system, so i thought I'd remove the clutch res cap. FFS as i released the screws it pissed out everywhere, was full to the top. I drained a couple mm out and than checked the brake res as i noted a lot of brake dust on my wheels (I'm not heavy on the brakes) and yet again it pissed out everywhere, removed some fluid so that i can see a little bubble in the window and bingo finding N is no problem, the box feels alot smother and hopefully my brakes are no longer dragging when the fluid expands .
mcinlb
Registered user
Good result Save, worth a check, I just had my brake fluid changed.....
