gearbox/clutch refitting now Im stuck

[hodge1150]

Just got the clutch and gearbox back on, no real drama but its a bit of a balancing act, and I had to draw the gearbox on to the engine by tightening the bolts up(which the clymer manual says not to do), hope no damage.

BUT

now Im stuck, I took the swinging arm and the bevel box off as a unit, how the hell do I get it back on again, how do the drive shafts line up ???????

help please
Hodge

 

[northengit]

Just got the clutch and gearbox back on, no real drama but its a bit of a balancing act, and I had to draw the gearbox on to the engine by tightening the bolts up(which the clymer manual says not to do), hope no damage.

BUT

now Im stuck, I took the swinging arm and the bevel box off as a unit, how the hell do I get it back on again, how do the drive shafts line up ???????

help please
Hodge

If I'am reading this correct "your bevel box was still attached to the swing arm assy " when you removed it. You will have to seperate the units ,then refit the swing arm casing, install drive shaft alinging splines up to output shaft, make sure its engaged correctly, then align splines on the bevel box unit and install up to drive shaft.... heaps of info on here regarding the alignment of the splines/shafts/ phasing... they are slightly off centre, but do a search..... Good luck.

 

[aussben]

Generally you don't want to use the bolts to pull the transmission in the friction plate might not be completely aligned and you could do damage. The gearbox should be easy to push in make sure you have a gear selected and turn the output shaft as you apply pressure.

I will have a look at the manual when I get home and post the instructions regarding fitting the swing arm to the gearbox.

 

[aussben]

ok I was posting just as northengit was writing his post anyway he has answered your question.

 

[Steptoe]

, and I had to draw the gearbox on to the engine by tightening the bolts up(which the clymer manual says not to do), hope no damage.

- doing what you've done above, can result in the clutch plate being forced into a "dish" shape by the gearbox input shaft. Which means that the clutch isn't engaged at all.


Check your clutch engages/ disengages before putting it all back together.

 

[hodge1150]

cheers for all advice, taken rear bevel drive off, lucky really cos the bearings are indented and gritty. I will get the bearings this morning from motorworks.
Tried the clutch, seems O.K. but now Im paranoid. Do I take the gearbox off to check the plate, or do I leave it on --- oooh ek.
Seems daft this but Im quite enjoying this, its not as difficult as I thought and its a steep learning curve but as I intend to keep the GS for many moons I wont have any misgivings about doing the task again.
Hodge

 

[hodge1150]

7NM thats 3/4 of bugger all

Update, took gearbox off again to see if I had knackered the clutch, looked O.K. but took clutch off to make sure, seems O.K.
Put the gearbox on with LOADS of care and everything hunky dory.
Im now torquing the swinging arm and rear bevel/swinging arm bearing. The book says 7NM torque, Ive rung around and I cant find a torque wrench that goes so low, any body know where I can buy one ?, or will it do to tighten till it feels solid and give another, say 15 degrees.
cheers
Hodge

 

[cookie]

i've got one

7NM is just a tad more than a bees wing, it's not very tight at all. even with the torque wrench it's very hard to get right, i do it by feel.

 

[hodge1150]

do it by feel ?? I like the idea

cheers, I think I will do it by feel, its probably only to preload the bearings anyway.

 

[isaac hunt]

Are you the hodge that used to work at browns years ago ?

 

[hodge1150]

could be

did my apprenticeship at DB lockwood
who are you ??
now 47 years old had nickname since 13, so lots know me by it.
hodge