Gearbox leak - not again...

[BigblackGS]

Hi
Just an idea, I think that the size of that seal was a 40mm outer dia and 25mm inner dia, Could it be that the seal has been mixed up and is a 40/26mm and doesn´t seal hard enough against the shaft ? then loads of oil could escape and no damage/wear would be visable,

Phil

 

[MattW]

If you can't find any defects ??

i.e Is the wee spring on okay around the shaft seal inner lip?

the shaft is not pitted badly I would strongly consider increasing the depth of the seal so that the fresh lip runs on the clean unmarked shaft and not in a groove

Hi Jaythro,
No - no defects and the spring was still in place.
As you and Stewart say - I think you're right about changing the seal insertion depth so it runs on fresh shaft. I've since leaned from Anton Largaider on ADV that the BMW tool places the seal 1.5mm deep. Mine is / was set at 2.45mm (same as the one I originally replaced) - perhaps I could set it at 1mm deep (there's a slight chamfer on the housing so it couldn't be set flush)

Hi
Just an idea, I think that the size of that seal was a 40mm outer dia and 25mm inner dia, Could it be that the seal has been mixed up and is a 40/26mm and doesn´t seal hard enough against the shaft ? then loads of oil could escape and no damage/wear would be visable,
Phil

Good point Phil - I'll check when I receive my new seal from motorworks.

Thanks guys

 

[Hman]

just an idea........... why not look for a better seal with a dual lip. try "simply bearings.co.uk", it maybe cheaper than motorworks to........... another option to consider.









Hman

 

[MattW]

just an idea........... why not look for a better seal with a dual lip. try "simply bearings.co.uk", it maybe cheaper than motorworks to........... another option to consider.

Hman

Good idea, thanks Hman

However, I wouldn't know where to start when it comes to seal material, compound, lip pressure etc - last thing I need is to use something which completely trashes the shaft

I've ordered a(nother ) new OEM seal and unless someone tells me it's a crap idea, I'm going to try installing it shallower than previously (1mm below the gearbox face).

If this doesn't work, I guess then it's either a shaft sleeve as Changeling used, or pull the gearbox and send it to Scriminger for rebuild (expensive and not my favoured option )

cheers
M

 

[MattW]

Just when I thought nothng else could go wrong...

I was cleaning old loctite off the various swingarm / paralever pinions and happened to take a close look at the fixed swingarm pivot pin (the titanium one):

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a8-FQRk_aADoc-OHJF_FOA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/SfGF8ZQvG6I/AAAAAAAABos/0Ej8xrlVu-g/s800/pin1.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/oQVYde3sBr_5ZEaZukFnHg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/SfGGBEJ65-I/AAAAAAAABo0/Sr6PBOP7QRc/s800/pin2.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JrxiGAIl4lGUDkZE2BlAwQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/SfGGFFqerJI/AAAAAAAABo8/Feu2xEnrWp8/s800/pin3.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DXogJpBp9W2-jbz3mD72zw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/SfGGJPp9aWI/AAAAAAAABpE/JY-B_UfEstM/s800/pin4.jpg" /></a>

I don't be-feckin'-lieve it - cracked just about all the way around the flange on the head - looks like the slightly dirty acetone they'd been soaking in makes a good dye-pen tester

Of course Motorworks don't have them in stock, so it'll be mid next week before I receive the new one.

Anyone one want an 1100?

 

[Stewart H]

Bloody ellers Matt, did you shoot a lot of Robins or break a lot of mirrors when you were a kid ? Its a good job you found that, at least you can build the bike up so far anyway.
Stewart

 

[BrianR]

Stay with it man

Matt

I have had the rear paralever off mine more times than I care to remember. It will be just like changing a wheel for you soon. Hope it all works out when its back together.

BrianR

 

[MattW]

Bloody ellers Matt, did you shoot a lot of Robins or break a lot of mirrors when you were a kid ? Its a good job you found that, at least you can build the bike up so far anyway.
Stewart

Tell me about it - I must have been really bad in a previous life

As you say, better to find it now rather than at the side of the road after my swing arm falls off!

As these pinions are more or less the first bit to get fitted, my rebuild this weekend will amount to drifting in the new output seal. For a laugh, I might drain the tank and fit the new throttle cable I've had hanging around for a while but thinking about it, that might be one can of worms too much for the minute...

 

[MattW]

Matt

I have had the rear paralever off mine more times than I care to remember. It will be just like changing a wheel for you soon. Hope it all works out when its back together.

BrianR

Thanks Brian - I'm sure it'll be fine in the end - just taking a while getting there

 

[Dragon Master]

Matt, just watch it withthat torque wrench when you put the thing back together; I had this (pivot cracking) happen with mine last year. Pity I didn't see this earlier, I could have banged mine (new one) in the post for you, yer'd have had it tomorrow.

I'm interested to know how your seal works; I've got a similar problem with mine.

Dave.

 

[MattW]

Matt, just watch it withthat torque wrench when you put the thing back together; I had this (pivot cracking) happen with mine last year. Pity I didn't see this earlier, I could have banged mine (new one) in the post for you, yer'd have had it tomorrow.

I'm interested to know how your seal works; I've got a similar problem with mine.

Dave.

Thanks for the thought Dave
I actually under torqued the fixed pivots (had lent out my 1/2" wrench and the 3/8" one only goes to 110Nm - seemed plenty tight enough at 110 and I put witness marks on them to make sure.

I'm hoping that drifting the seal in shallower than before will allow the lip to bear on 'good' shaft. Time will tell I guess

Failing that it's either a DIY stripdown (although re-shimming it sounds scary) or Scriminger....

 

[MattW]

Well, put it all back together on Friday with its new gearbox fixed pivot and g/b seal. This time I used ordinary blue loctite 243 instead of 2701 which was a complete sod to both release and clean off. I drifted the seal in to about 0.5 - 1mm deep which should place the lip about 1.5 - 2mm away from the existing wear groove and onto 'good' shaft.

Did 80 miles or so yesterday and popped the FD boot off - bone dry, so looking good so far (won't be completely confident until I've got a few hundred done though - the last seal started off good). The gearbox doesn't seem to have suffered due to its 'low oil' event - just as clunky as ever

Thanks for all the advice / support

 

[Stewart H]

Enjoy, you deserve a bit of saddle time

Stewart

 

[MattW]

Enjoy, you deserve a bit of saddle time

Stewart

Cheers Stewart

Forgot to say, while I was spending money with motorworks I got the updated left hand camchain tensioner assembly and fitted it while I was spannering - no more start-up rattle

 

[street_moto]

Cheers Stewart

Forgot to say, while I was spending money with motorworks I got the updated left hand camchain tensioner assembly and fitted it while I was spannering - no more start-up rattle

Nice to hear you're back on the road Matt!

What kind of a job is it to fit the updated camchain tensioner assembly?

Regards Dave

 

[Stewart H]

Nice to hear you're back on the road Matt!

What kind of a job is it to fit the updated camchain tensioner assembly?

Regards Dave

Simple, I followed the pictorial from ADVrider, a bit of strategically bent tie wire, needle nosed pliers. Bobs yer uncle
Stewart

 

[street_moto]

Simple, I followed the pictorial from ADVrider, a bit of strategically bent tie wire, needle nosed pliers. Bobs yer uncle
Stewart

Like the sound of that, I'll have a look on ADVrider!
Ta!

Regards Dave

 

[MattW]

Nice to hear you're back on the road Matt!

What kind of a job is it to fit the updated camchain tensioner assembly?

Regards Dave

Thanks Dave

Regarding the tensioner - what Stewart says

Simple job, a bit of a faff to get to it (you have to remove the throttle body and tie it out of the way). As Stewart says, the ADV tutorial is excellent. Ring spanners with a small offset (most combination spanners) are your friend - used backwards so the shaft angles down. It's a 17mm to undo the old tensioner and a 15 to tighten the new one (why did they change the head size? ). I discovered that I didn't have a 15mm combi spanner so I 'customised' a standard large offset ring spanner (put it in the vice and leathered it with a lump hammer to bend the shaft )

There's no way on earth you can get a torque wrench on the tensioner to tighten it to the recommended value, so just tighten it till you feel the crush washer 'crush' (make sure you get a new washer when ordering the kit).

cheers
M

 

[CHANGELING]

Thats cracking news Matw.