Getting it into a transit van

sidpick

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Hi all, I'm trying to get my r1200gsa upto St.Eptoe for clutch replacement.

I've managed to get hold of a transit van with a single lift up rear door.

Looks like it'll be close fit (screen and mirrors removed) but I think it will go in.

My helpers for the day have gone so its looking like I'm going to have to try and get this thing into the van on my own.

No winch fitted but I was looking at rigging up a rope to the bulk head, putting rope through pulley and then using a climbing belay device called a grigri to keep the rope taught and locked off in the case of needing a rest during the process. The rope, pulley and grigri can easily hold the weight of the bike.

Obviously fraught with danger for such a heavy bike. Anyone had success single handedly doing this or any thoughts or tips for doing it safely? I'm planning on using scaffold planks

Clutch was totally shot, no drive at all. Bikes not been ridden now for 2 weeks and not even started it up so not sure if it may have gained some slight pull after cooling down (if that is possible!)

Really don't want to be doing this on own but its highly likely no one will be around to help (neighbours are elderly)

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Cheers,

Sid
 
You might find it easier if you have enough scaffold planks to form a ramp wide enough for you to walk up alongside the bike, or failing that, something to step on about half the height of the van's floor, just so you're not trying to support the bike by reaching too far upwards as the bike enters the van.

If you have handlebar risers on, double check that they don't make the bike too high - you might get the front wheel in but then find the bars hit the roof as the back wheel rises up the ramp...

The whole operation will be easier with an almost empty tank than with a full one, but you've probably worked that out already. :D

I've never attempted to load a 1200GSA into a van that size, but I have had my F800GS in the back of my low roof VW Transporter a couple of times. However, I've never pushed it in, just started it and walked it up the ramp in 1st gear...

...and if you're tempted to take a run at it, then make sure your ramp is securely fitted because otherwise it is bound to move and dump you in a heap on the ground.
 
Have you got enough batons to make a platform same height as van floor, would be easier to get bike onto a open area at right level, then just push bike forward into van.....Having said that, I have a transit....did own a 1200gsa......n don't think it would of fit without dropping bars down....
 
If you've got a compressor handy, you could reduce the height of the van by letting the rear tyres down a bit. Remember to reinflate before driving off!
 
You could probably do the job with one (non lifting) helper to keep a wedge chock under the back wheel.

Push the bike up the ramp with side stand down. When you stop, helper puts chock under rear wheel.
Now move the bike, even as little as one inch at a time, while helper keeps pushing the chock back under the wheel. Eventually the bike will be at the top of the ramp.

All points about the van roof being high enough are assumed. ;)

If you can't fully trust the helper to keep up with progress, use the rope trick as back-up.

Obviously this works best with a wide ramp running at a shallow angle. :)

Scaffold planks will need to be in a double layer and ideally you will need some short poles and plank clamps to create a solid bed. Or make up a ladder frame from scaffolding to support the planks.

PS heres an idea -
Make a table with scaffolding & set the table top about 4" off the ground. Then push the bike on (up a short ramp). Strap it down if you like.
Use a trolley jack to lift one end and then slacken the clamps & slide the table legs down to the ground.
Take out the jack and repeat at the other end.
Continue until the table is at van floor level. Roll bike into van.
You will need some short planks to raise the jack or use a high lift jack(s).
 
You could try pulling the plugs out and stick it in gear and use the start button to move it up the ramp. Assuming of course that the clutch has enough bite left.

Experiment first.

Make sure you isolate the fuel pump and motronic.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the replies, many of the thoughts that were going through my head too!

Hops, Classic video I think it would definitely fit going at that speed. I think it will just fit though the inner door 'seal' without removing handlebars.

Thought of a plan late last night, rope tied to car towing eye, through pulley at bulk head, strop on the front forks / handlebars and slow reverse as I steady the bike. Its got to work :thumb
 
Thought of a plan late last night, rope tied to car towing eye, through pulley at bulk head, strop on the front forks / handlebars and slow reverse as I steady the bike. Its got to work :thumb

Good or Bad.......DON'T FORGET TO VIDEO....:D:thumb
 
Thanks for all the replies, many of the thoughts that were going through my head too!

Hops, Classic video I think it would definitely fit going at that speed. I think it will just fit though the inner door 'seal' without removing handlebars.

Thought of a plan late last night, rope tied to car towing eye, through pulley at bulk head, strop on the front forks / handlebars and slow reverse as I steady the bike. Its got to work :thumb

Please PLEASE video the whole thing :thumb

It will become an Internet classic, and will no doubt be featured in many "fail compilation " films, as well as be posted here dozens of times, becoming the new :ronno thread of the decade :augie

Seriously? Repost a new thread asking if three or four local tossers would mind popping over to help for ten minutes, bacon butties provided.
 
You need someone you can REALLY trust driving the car.

DONT PULL/TOW USING THE HANDLEBARS. How would I know that :o

A long rope loop around both fork legs under the wishbone with the loop either side of the wheel might work. But probably best with mudguard removed.

The scaffold table should be cheap to hire and less risky so ultimately less costly. Keep it to get the bike back out of the van. Or hire a van with tail lift.
 
:augie I'll start the fail video with a wonderful shot of the honda CG125 I managed to get into the boot of a ford KA..

Only had a few bolts left over too when I rebuilt.

Going to re-measure the transit but stuck at work till monday so won't be able to measure bike properly to check. Looks tight.

Wish the van had a winch. I've moved and installed hundreds of safes, many of which a lot heavier than the bike using straps, scaffolding planks, rollers and electronic winch. Dead weight though so much easier, no moving parts as such.

Probably end up pushing it at this rate.

Couple of days left to try and find someone who can transport. The £100 most are quoting seems reasonable now thinking of the potential disaster even if there is a couple of people.

Cheers all!

Sid :beer:
 
I think the Transit measures:-

Length: 2.4m
Width: 1.7m
Height: 1.4m or 1.65m with medium roof.

If you have a couple of days on your side then how about buying a bike ramp?

I recently bought this on ebay, £25 and almost as new and it ain't going to bend, whilst on my way to collecting a bike a few weeks back. The guy only used it once and then had no further need for it but there is no way I'm selling it after just once use - it's far too handy to be without now.

 
R1200GSA height excluding mirrors 1525 mm, length 2240 mm, width including mirrors 990 mm. Maybe take the screen and mirrors off to fit it in if the door is too low.
 
Drop the screen, turn the mirrors down push it in in one go without stopping, use the front brake to control if necessary, much easier with a second pair of hands to steady it. I do it all the time in the back of big Motorhomes when I'm moving them about. put it on the sidestand anchor either side pulling forward, the ratchet strap fore and aft, it wont move then, done thousands of miles like this!
 
Study and note any recurring themes to avoid.

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