GPX - Provence, possible ‘three day’ jaunt

Wapping

Well-known member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
90,842
Reaction score
15,621
Location
Wapping, London
Edition 20 (September 2024) of the German Motorrad magazine, has a suggested three-day jaunt in Provence. I have created it by hand in MyRoute.

My parents lived for 20 or more years near Apt / Roussillon, so I know the whole area pretty well. Is the route perfect? Well, few suggestions ever are, but it’s certainly pretty good. Use a decent map and alter it to suit your own needs, rather than following it blindly. Do you have to take its suggested three days? No, of course not. It’s 200 miles, though the author says it’s 600 km (375 miles). Unless I made a significant mistake, which I can’t see I have done, I guess they either rode several bits twice on their jaunt or it’s a mistype. I might suggest that the author took three days, because he stopped at several sites and villages along the way. Take as long as you like. Either way, it matters little in the great scheme of things.

Any other tips? Only a three:

In summer it can be blisteringly hot in central Provence. Take lots of water with you. Most locals start early, finishing their chores by say, 11:30 and recommencing around 16:00. Start early and finish later than you might otherwise normally do. Enjoy lunch, sit or walk about in the shade, dumping your bike clobber. The extra hour of daylight helps, too.

In late August / early September there can be massive thunderstorms, as nature releases the pent up energy of a hot period that might have gone on uninterrupted since late March. It pours and / or hails, sometimes with some violence but at least it clears the air.

Largely in spring or winter (it can snow quite heavily in February) the Mistral might blow. This is cold and makes a strange noise not entirely unlike a train. The upside? The brightest blue sky you’ll ever probably see. I once encountered it in summer; we didn’t eat outside for three days at all and went looking for jumpers and long trousers. Then, as suddenly as it starts, it stops. It’s a very odd phenomenon.

Don’t let any of those three put you off though. It is a fantastic area of France. It has everything, between the Mediterranean sea coast, vineyards, some great villages and towns, flat plains, gorges, hills and right at the top, the ‘must do’ of Mont Ventoux.

IMG_6092.jpeg

IMG_6096.jpeg


Time from Calais to Apt? It’s 1,000 km or a bit over 600 miles. You can do it in a day, straight down the motorway. Best way to go, mate? How long is a piece of string? Calais to say, Dijon on the N and D roads, gets you to halfway in a day, maybe with a bit of motorway to say, Cambrai, if you don’t start early’ish. The same south, for day two but insert the motorway to miss going through Lyon city centre. You have a choice of motorways at Lyon, one through the tunnel and one that swings around. I have done both many times and it’s a lottery as to which is best. Lyon is a big city and does get very busy, unsurprisingly, squeezed as it is by the hills and the Rhone river. But again, don’t let any of it put you off. Or take a few days and enjoy the Morvan or the Côte d’Or or the Rhone valley or anything else…… and be sure to avoid Avignon in the rush hour! It’s bloody hot, flat and very congested,

Have fun!



PS I haven’t checked the GPX route in any great detail, vis-a-vis the accuracy of my positioning of the shaping points, not least as I was creating it on my iPad in ‘split screen’ mode, the magazine map on one half of the screen, MyRote on the other. From a cursory look, it looks OK and is (near enough) where the bod’s route goes.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Wapping. Nicely put together. Re: weather in September, I’ve been fortunate in Spain but looking elsewhere especially with what’s going on in the Balkans and North Italy since late August it’s good to hear about local conditions. (y)
 
Thank you. I thought it worth the effort as it could be interesting to some at least.

Heavy rain in Central Europe is not unknown, Nor is the opening of dams upstream, to relieve pressure, resulting in (presumably) less flooding downstream than might otherwise happen should the dam burst or be over-topped. In short, they move the accumulating water somewhere else. We have collected multiple millions in insurance claims on behalf of clients for years. Germany was very hard hit a few years ago, Poland before that.

What though is undeniable is the increase in the number of big events and their severity and / or some parts being flooded, which have no past history of significant flooding at all. In part, due to changes in built up areas (there were no buildings there before) and in a large part due to climate change, affecting us all directly.

But hey, we digress. Provence is fantastic….. I have though seen a Ford Transit and two caravans that were washed into the river in Apt, the flood waters and debris also taking out the very substantial steel footbridge. The same event killed a couple of campers, sadly. The car park in Apt behind the central post office carries a notice in English that the area is ‘submersible’ which always amused me. The river is usually a very small trickle, a home to many frogs. This screenshot picture gives an idea of what the river is usually like (scarcely even a stream) and the height of the river’s walls, to cope when it is in full flood, taking the ‘submersible’ car park with it.

Apt-12-copyright-French-Moments.jpg


:beerjug:
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: G&T
Avignon is a lovely walled city but has a typically French one way, I'm reluctant to say, system. Not aided by narrow streets and city walls that block satnav signals. I found my hotel easily but it was less easy to escape the city walls the following morning, especially with some streets inaccessible due to the market and some gates through the wall being one way.
I was there in late April and it was plenty warm enough in the daytime but quite cool in the evening as the Mistral got stronger. Getting around the final, steep hairpin at the top of the aptly named Mont Ventoux was a challenge in the strong wind. Northern side was still iced up so had to go back down the same side. If I go back it will be late May, early June.
 
If I go back it will be late May, early June.

September and early to mid-October are nice, too. Before the light goes. Early spring, for some sunshine can be good, as well.

It is just about close enough to look at the meteo and say, “Hey, it’s nice down south. Let’s go”. Particularly, that is if you live in SE England with the Chunnel or ferry to Calais within easy striking distance. Outside of the school holidays, too.
 
Avignon is a lovely walled city but has a typically French one way, I'm reluctant to say, system.

Quimper, is another. I have encountered ‘Quimper madness’ once. Like jungle fever, it never leaves you.
 
Just to add, defo watch where you park. There are lots of places that look absolutely fine in France, a cloudburst in the mountains and everything changes in minutes!
Witnessed carnage in Collioure a few years back, and a Toyota Aygo that could not be saved washed out to sea..
 
And the little yellow signs, by the innocent looking rivers, warning of the dangers of being swept away when the small hydro-station upstream, opens its sluices to generate some power.

I have seen the tidal wave which passes….

Hey-ho, it’s dangerous out there….. but only sometimes and that’s not very often.
 


Back
Top Bottom